Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

let me get in on that b cam action!!!

I'll be looking fairly seriously at some vct development for my GTR. I'm not going to shell out for hks v-cam that's for shure!! It would be interesting to get intake AND exhaust happening.

How hard could it be?? ha ha ha

J.

  • 1 month later...

Time for some more big pics.

I've started work on the sump today.

How it started

P7090017.jpg

After some drilling and cutting I got the plate out. They weren't designed to come out easily

P7090018.jpg

Starting to design the new guts of the sump.

P7090019.jpg

P7090020.jpg

Since we've put the engine back in Damo's car, we have found the reason we lost so much power in Targa. The lifters for cylinder 2 are rooted

  • 2 weeks later...

More pics of the sump

Completed cardboard mockup

P71600241280x960.jpg

P71600251280x960.jpg

I made a mount (high tech treated pine), so I could mount the oil pickup asif the pan was connected to the block. It's no wonder they run bearings. The pickup will be moved to the middle of the pan.

P72300261280x960.jpg

P72300271280x960.jpg

I got it all cut out in steel. only have cut 1 trap door hole so far, need to to cut the others out, weld the hinges on, then put it all together

P72300281280x960.jpg

P72300291280x960.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Sump is getting close now. Only need some small angle steel to attach the cover.

Gates and baffle insert.

P80100301280x960.jpg

Dummy fitting the insert.

P8010031960x1280.jpg

Insert welded in, and pickup modifications complete.

P8140032960x1280.jpg

Cover modifed for the new pickup. got to take a plasma cutter for a spin....they are awsome

P8140033960x1280.jpg

design is good but I'm not sure about the 4 tabs that secure the centre 'box'. they are effectively stopping oil flow around the box. they will kind of act to reduce surge a bit but will also reduce flow in and out of the box. just something to think about. you could always hole saw them so oil can flow through or just cut them down a bit smaller (but could be tough now that it's welded in).

otherwise it looks sound.

FWIW, I looked at fitting the RB26 windage trays to my RB20 as I thought the racier RB26 would have a design better than the lowly 20. I was wrong. RB20 windage tray is better.

So I wasted an hour of my mate's time milling my RB20 girder to accept the 26 trays.... because of course, I assumed it would be an improvement without actually checking huh.

What a Doofus.

yeah 26 one is pretty crap and a fairly compromised set-up all round (they do have a better pick-up though). their only good point is they can look kind of cool being alloy instead of the cake tin GTST gear, not good for their weight though.

  • Like 1

design is good but I'm not sure about the 4 tabs that secure the centre 'box'. they are effectively stopping oil flow around the box. they will kind of act to reduce surge a bit but will also reduce flow in and out of the box. just something to think about. you could always hole saw them so oil can flow through or just cut them down a bit smaller (but could be tough now that it's welded in).

otherwise it looks sound.

The idea is that the oil will hit the baffle, and be forced into the gate. The baffles arn't sealed, and the oil can go under and around

I'm referring to the windage trays you noob, not the sumps. :miner:

i know you monkey. hence why i said:

"yeah 26 one is pretty crap (windage tray) and a fairly compromised set-up (meaning sump, pickup the whole bit) all round (they do have a better pick-up though). their only good point is they can look kind of cool being alloy instead of the cake tin GTST gear, not good for their weight though."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But it's much better to use a freedom unit that has four different possible meanings...
    • I would try messing with friction modifier to see if it smooths it out.  Just keep adding more until it stops chattering or grabbing quite so much. If you haven't changed the gear oil in a long time you may as well start there too in case that has anything to do with it. You might want to also verify the initial torque is set to the lowest setting too. Requires popping out one of the CV axles first but that's not too bad. Once you're sure the preload is set to the lowest you can try adding an ounce at a time of friction modifier until it feels right to you.
    • It is possibly 55 degrees for the Nismo version. I had a look through the manual and the stocker has a breakaway torque of 2.5 to 3.5kgm. Supposedly the Nismo LSD goes down to 5kgm when worn in but it is pretty grabby even with very little throttle. Worse when cold. So I guess you have three things. 1. Shims. 2 Friction plates 3. Cams Would think shims would be the easiest but Ive no clue how many tenths of a mm shim thickness change equals how many kgm torque. Also not sure if the Nismo friction plates are similar/different to stock or if they are the most of the source of the diff being angry. Think I can write off the Nismo rebuild kit for the standard diff as not being what I want.  
    • Yeah, it was a bit of confusion with me, I rang and asked if they had a boot for a soft top, and then the paint shop when they rang and were asked if it had a hard top on it, which it does, just not a PRHT....LOL Meh, whilst frustrating for all concerned it isn't a war stopper and should be a thing of the past in a week or two In other N/A related news, car is booked in at the end of the month for the cams, springs, retainers, harmonic balancer and retune  I might even pull the lazy arse card and get them to do a full service on it whilst it is there
×
×
  • Create New...