Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK - so most of you will be aware that DECA is coming up on Saturday 15th August and as always, the event wont go ahead unless we get enough people to help out.

So we are calling for your assistance - if your willing to help, or if your bringing a friend who's willing to help - please speak up

All officials will be given lunch and water etc during the day.

We also need all officials to be at DECA by 8.00am on Saturday morning - same time as competitors.

This is very important that we get people along to help for this stuff.... otherwise it affects everyone day...

If you see one of your friends standing around doing nothing, volunteer them for one of these jobs...

It will make the day run HEAPS smoother, which is better for you!!!

We need all the help we can get!!

Also remember, that these jobs all get you up close and personal to the action, and really gets you involved!

(Posistions are subject to change!)

Morning

Long Wang

Starter/Timer - Bec

Finisher/Timer 1- Dave

Finisher/Timer 2 - Rob

Flaggy 1 - Anna

Flaggy 2 - assyrian4evaa

Mini Wang

Starter - Campbell

Finisher/Timer - Tim

Skidpan

Timer/Time Recorder - Cassandra

Starter/Hat Removalist - RB_Ryan

Afternoon

Skidpan

Timer 1 - Anna

Timer 2 - Cassandra

Time Recorder -

Starter/Hat Removalist -Ryan/Crossy/Dave

Hat Removalist -

Look forward to seeing you all up there!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278160-micolour-sau-vic-deca-volunteers/
Share on other sites

I'll put it too the Mrs.... She might time for half a day if that would help? would want to be able to take her as a passenger still, and would want to be timing the group i am in so she can watch though(no dodgeyness haha)... guessing BYO deck chair? :(

we need the most volunteers in the morning, from 8am to 12:30... after that we only need a few so there will be plenty of time for passenger rides in the afternoon..

the afternoon will also be the better time for spectating

Ill be there again.

Can I plz be put as flaggy on Long Wang in morning and if you need me in the arvo let me know and I can help then too (otherwise Ill just be standing around doing nothing!)

Great work guys.. have added you name to the list...

Keep them comming people!!

"Remember without these nice people that help us out... there wont be an event..."

I know people probably get tired of hearing that saying... but sadly it is true!!

So make sure you round some mates up!

it is simple as it sounds... But definately don't worry about asking nooby questions...

I would rather you ask questions and know what is goin on, rather than hold up the days events becuase you don't.

basically there is a finish gate at the end of each map.

The gate is made up of a series of cones designed so that you have to stop completely within it its walls.

Once you have come to a stop, your time stops.

A volunteer is then required to remove the cone from in front of your car so you can drive forward and move on the to next event.

Watch some of the videos people have posted and you can get an idea of what i mean.

Its nice a simple! And you get to be right up close to the action.

It basically just helps to keep everyone moving so we turnover cars at a faster pace...

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

OK people... have updated the list.. made a few changes and added a few people...

Let me know if you have a problem with where i have put you... they still might change.. but i think it should be pretty good like this...

Also if your not sure about a job just ask me either on here or PM...

Look forward to seeing you all up there bright and early!!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
×
×
  • Create New...