Intercooler Restricting Power Over 250rwkw On R34 Gtt

[PM-R33]

Mmmmmmm 30psi *drool*

[sick_skidz]

only thing i suggest is to check if it is your intercooler is to take it out and dummy fit a pipe and just give it a ramp on the dyno if you got alot of timing in it just back it off in 1 runn you will know if its an intercooler prob or not. do it on 1st ramp to so inlet temps stay down tho.

[zebra]

what will that prove??? with 10deg of timing pulled out the car wont make any power anyway so how will that test if the cooler is crap?

[mad082]

checked for leaks today..plumbed(with pump) it up and pumped up to 25 psi and it held steady...no leaks...that i could hear or see, bumped it up too 30 psi...and the piece i plumbed it with popped out.

so im guessing leaking wasnt an issue.

any other idea's before i splurge on a intercooler??

regards, Bass

was it just the core that you pressurised or the whole system?

[allthewaytotheskyline]

the whole system was pressurized, ive purchased a new intercooler so my cars at the tuner now...we will see how we go.

[allthewaytotheskyline]

ok, UPDATE...so i purchased so almost a $1000 later still no fix...after fitting a plazmaman intercooler and upgrading my clamps to t bolt ones and a few new silicone hoses im still STUCK at 250rwkw....

I AM DEAD SET AT THE END OF MY WITTS WITH THIS CAR....in dire need of advice...

just to cap it offf, have dropped exhaust before the car

replaces intercooler

replaced clamps with heavy duty ones

and any worn piping with new silicon piping.

WHERE DO I GO WITH IT??

[SS8_Gohan]

i had a FMIC leak, i fixed with Norma constant tension, or high tension ones...

from my little research, t bolt = crap - the Norma ones are a great product

[FOOLBOOST]

Mine is dropping as well by heaps from 19psi-13/14psi

Hks2530

Im changing the actuator to a 19psi one then cooler is gonna be next

[Bond]

Mine was doing the same.....hitting a brick wall at 5200rpm with a 3040 and 240rwkw. Turned out the curved section of the intake was sucking shut. Very easy to spot and simple and cheap fix!!

[SS8_Gohan]

have you done the rev210 intake mod mate? because sometimes even those silicone pipes aren't the best.

i thought we established that the hks 2530 doesn't hold to redline anyway?

[mad082]

what was the boost doing with the new cooler?

and as ss8_gohan said, if you still have the stock intake, have you done the mod to make sure it can't suck shut?

[allthewaytotheskyline]

what was the boost doing with the new cooler?

and as ss8_gohan said, if you still have the stock intake, have you done the mod to make sure it can't suck shut?

ok whats happning is, boost on the turbo inlet (ive got a nipple there connected to a boost gauge) is reading at 20 psi and another boost gauge or maf sensor on the inlet plenum is only reading 14 psi.

so i know it cant be the intake as its making the boost but once im hitting about 240-250rwkw or 14psi'ish at about 4500rpm the boost just drops off dramatically...and it still makes the 20psi on the turbo side but only gauging 14 psi on the inlet manifold side.

hope it wasnt confusing...my tuner says it could be boost leak...but ffs...i think ive fixed it...im going to go back and pressurise the system and see if there are any leaks.

OTHERWISE IM DUMBFOUND...

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

wish i found this thread earlier... wanted to say a few things:

1) i run a 2835 pro s @ 21psi on e85 with no issues. i run a hybrid cooler.

2) i use expensive clamps as the ones that came with the cooler popped off/leaked on the dyno

3) i had a boost leak that was hard to diagnose a lil while back. the stock rubber elbow on the intake side (between turbo and cooler) has a weak spot along the join on the underside, mine has split but under low pressure remained closed. we listened for ages and couldn't find anything, even on the dyno we had a hard time finding the leak. try using a stethoscope when the car is loaded up and listening under the hose @ high boost.

the symptoms were: car would load fine, but when i got towards 1 bar you could hear the leak get louder and louder. i would get to 1.3bar, but then the boost would drop off back down to 1 bar or lower

we replaced the hose with a "drift" item and instantly the car was hitting close to 2 bar by just over 4 grand and still climbing. which means that the leak was there at the time of setting up my boost controller a year prior and was never noticed until it split more!

[mad082]

good find. yeah everything seems to be pointing to boost leak.

obviously it isn't the intercooler then.

[Bond]

I had done the intake mode but the bend section was sucking shut. I think we plugged into the consult port and saw the AFM voltage dropping dramatically at 5000rpm.

[Haines]

Mine also does this

ive got an R34 running a gt3076r with the nissan housing on it

hits 18psi then drops back to 15 by redline

im buggered if i know what it is

im tossing up wether to go to an external gated setup with the .82 housing

but its all money I dont want to spend right now on the car

[allthewaytotheskyline]

yeh...im going to let the tuner check for leaks...he seems super busy though...and god knows when there going to get onto it....

im quite fed up with this project so be sanely honest.

how big can a leak be that it bleeds of 6 psi...and an unoticable one too.

Edited August 1, 2009 by allthewaytotheskyline

[W0rp3D]

yeh...im going to let the tuner check for leaks...he seems super busy though...and god knows when there going to get onto it....

Who is your tuner?

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

yeh...im going to let the tuner check for leaks...he seems super busy though...and god knows when there going to get onto it....

im quite fed up with this project so be sanely honest.

how big can a leak be that it bleeds of 6 psi...and an unoticable one too.

that's easy if its a part with a seem... mine had a leak and it wasn't noticed for over 50 dyno runs, the car performed like it was supposed to and everything seemed normal.

when the leak was fixed the car jumped 8-9 psi before we cut the run @4500ish and retuned the ebc

also i'm not talking about the intake elbow that sucks closed @ high pressure that we all know about (mine is steel)

its the elbow that goes through the bay AFTER the turbo

[Munkyb0y]

and that one is a mthrfkr to spot a split in, especially as it would be closed and seem fine until high pressure forces it open.

good find joey joe joe. i'm gonna replace that one before upping the boost just to be sure.

btw, what clamps do you use?

Edited August 1, 2009 by Munkyb0y