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Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
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Was kinda hoping they would do redline as well.

Does anyone wanna add some info on australian guidelines for labeling on oil? e.g. why motul will say 100% synthetic +ester and why do most of the rest use 'full synthetic'

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bozodos Grand Master

bozodos

Posted
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I thought that the Castrol Edge is a hydrocrack mineral oil type synthetic, making it a Group 3 and the Motul 300v and Mobil 1 are a Group V poly ester man made oil?

The oil thread has more info than you'd ever care about. All I know is that my car seemed to run better on Motul 8100 Xcess 5w40 which is a Group 4 oil than the Castrol EDGE 5w30.

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
I thought that the Castrol Edge is a hydrocrack mineral oil type synthetic, making it a Group 3 and the Motul 300v and Mobil 1 are a Group V poly ester man made oil?

The oil thread has more info than you'd ever care about. All I know is that my car seemed to run better on Motul 8100 Xcess 5w40 which is a Group 4 oil than the Castrol EDGE 5w30.

The oil thread is very good, has a great summary of oil classes.

Im a big 8100 xcess fan as i used to use 300v but at 150bux a change every 1000kms was a lil overkill.

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

you don't need to change every 1000km's, especially with such a good oil like 300V - 10K is fine, or 6 months, whichever comes first.

Castrol EDGE seems to be a Group IV, and i guess a pretty cheap group iv at that (i swear when it first came out it was a III) but it seems there is a 'Sports' version that may be a Group III (gotta do some more digging)

Mobil 1 is a funny one, as with a few oil brands it depends on what weight/viscosity you get. Ie, a 0w30 could be a Group IV+ but the same named oil in 10w40 could be Group III. Makes things confusing and i know Mobil 1 has copped some heat regarding some of their range.

Mobil and Castrol are generally a little cagey about what base stock everything else, but you're always well off to do an UOA anyway.

If you really want the absolute best, just buy Redline.

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted
lil bit off the subject

but ive seen how some people have got lil cartoons at the bottom of there posts

a bloke on here has one of a green s13

what are they and how do u make them?

thanks guys

http://www.pixelcars.com/index.php

Pixel Cars.

:P

Or just sit in front of Microsoft Paint for hours / days doing it yourself... LOL!

STYLN Collaborator

STYLN

Posted
Posted

in my experience the results of the oils can vary depending on the engine types, considerably. Some engines just like some oils more.

I run Castrol Edge in my skyline on the advice of Guilt Toy

I run Penrite HPR40 in my sigma as its proven to perform in the 4g54

I'd be keen to see a test run by Top Gear or something testing oils across the same car completely impartially. I once read a magazine article ages back that compared oils by subjecting it to a friction test on a peice of steel round bar against a metal plate. The resulting wear or lack of after X runs showed the best results. Royal Purple, motul and penrite all did very well. Edge wasnt around then...

An oil isnt proven by a poofteenth of a kW on a dyno, its proven by wear, temperatures and the way it looks at each oil change.

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted
An oil isnt proven by a poofteenth of a kW on a dyno, its proven by wear, temperatures and the way it looks at each oil change.

exactly!

what kind of retards base their choice of oil an a few kws difference on a dyno. a suss dyno at that.

those tests fail in every department.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
I'd be keen to see a test run by Top Gear or something testing oils across the same car completely impartially. I once read a magazine article ages back that compared oils by subjecting it to a friction test on a peice of steel round bar against a metal plate. The resulting wear or lack of after X runs showed the best results. Royal Purple, motul and penrite all did very well. Edge wasnt around then...

An oil isnt proven by a poofteenth of a kW on a dyno, its proven by wear, temperatures and the way it looks at each oil change.

Yes all that magazinbe article showed was that it is pointless testing an oil the same way you would test grease.

An oil will generally allow the motor to develop more horepower if it has a lower viscosity & more friction modifiers in it.

With regard to how it looks when it is in your sump - usually the blacker it is the better it works to absorb the crap that would otherwise be left in your motor. Ofcourse if it is the oil itself doing this you are in a bit of trouble....

TRBro1 Newbie

TRBro1

Posted
Posted
exactly!

what kind of retards base their choice of oil an a few kws difference on a dyno. a suss dyno at that.

those tests fail in every department.

Have to agree about not choosing an oil based on a few kW... Personally, I'm a bit more interested in the properties of the oil as a whole. The whole test seems a bit strange, nice work on spotting the fan distance pics. Some unusual variation there...

Won't be switching any time soon, sticking with Motul in the R34.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
Yes all that magazinbe article showed was that it is pointless testing an oil the same way you would test grease.

An oil will generally allow the motor to develop more horepower if it has a lower viscosity & more friction modifiers in it.

With regard to how it looks when it is in your sump - usually the blacker it is the better it works to absorb the crap that would otherwise be left in your motor. Ofcourse if it is the oil itself doing this you are in a bit of trouble....

An easy way to tell if it is the crap from the engine or the oil itself is to take note when draining the hot oil during a change.

It should come out black initially, but the oil should not be black when it gets to a light drizzle (the crud comes out mostly early on when you drain the oil).

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