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i think i have the piping side of it understood.

the "T" piece goes on the pipe that runs to the wastegate actuator? is that all i have to do.. Put the T piece in there? Do i have to remove the factory boost control solenoid? If so, how?

Does the positive wire from the dsbc go into the "in" or "off" side of the switch? im guessing "off"? then from the other switch connection it is meant to run to a "fused 12 volt ignition supply", what should i connect this one too?

Thanks,

when you did it, was the pipe that the T piece goes in too big to fit tightly over the t peice connections?

Or is the pipe quite thick?

also on one end of the "T" it says "remove the factory boost control solenoid". How did u do that? in the diagram it just has the T from the pressure source to the wastgate actuator.

I hooked it up the way i thought it was meant to be.. Like in my preety diagram.. i didnt remove the factory boost control solenoid.

I was almost in tears when i took it for a test drive.. I got around the corner went to take off and i heard a bang and a lot of air. I saw the boost guage jump to 1.1 bar!!

After i got my dad to tow me back home (cracking my front bar doing so) my mate pointed out the inlet pipe had blown off...I guess i was preety blind to miss that.

Well it is all good so far, i dont have the switch hooked up yet, im just setting my high boost.. I will only use this on a cool night. I have it set at .85 bar

My boost goes from .9bar at about 4000rpm, then as the revs go up the boost drops all the way down to .6bar at 6800rpm? Could there be a boost leak? From the stock bov maby?

Your diagram is right (but you didn't show the negative connection on the solenoid) :D

R32s don't have a boost control solenoid so don't worry too much.

I have a switchable single stage turbo smart wired in the same way. Be careful how much boost you wind in, limit yourself to just under 1 bar max. If the power ramps up too quickly (like mine at 16 psi) it will start to ping. You probably wont be able to hear it when driving ( i couldn't) but on a dyno the operator will spot it.

Second thing is don't worry about your boost dropping off, it's just that the stock wastegate actuator cant hold that level of boost. Mine did it too. You'll need to swap it for an HKS adjustable or something similar to hold any sort of decent boost at the top end.

thanks BHDave i feel heaps beter now, cuz im no mechanic, i just dont like to pay ppl to do stuff that i can do myself.

I just took her out for a run then.. I had the bc turned 5 clicks which gave me .9bar of boost.. It ran very smoothly and the boost came on alot stronger (obviously). I know .9 bar is pushing the stock turbo, but i will only use it occasionaly. I have turned the bc down now to run .6bar until i get the switch hooked up.

Is .6bar normal for stock boost?

What power supply should i use for the switch?

BHDave: What did u do to keep your boost at a constant level?

Where should the boost guage "T" go for the best reading?

See picture.

Before i even hooked up the bc, i got a reading of .6bar boost?

I guessing that is too high?

I have heard the r32 stock boost is a bit higher than the others?

Like about 8-9psi?

I have my bc turned all the way down (0 clicks) today i took off in 3rd and it went to .8bar boost?

It seems to be reading higher than it should be.

What gear should i test my boost level in? cuz i know the higher the gear the higher the boost reading will be.

I have installed an HKS adjustable actuator to hold boost better at the top end. It's currently set for 12psi base pressure with the boostcontroller set up to give a quicker spool up and higher bost in the midrange but it still drops off to about 13psi at 6500 rpm. It doesn't matter too much as the turbo is running out of puff by about 6000rpm once you start to up the boost/power. My dyno curve drops off quite rapidly after about 6000rpm. Peak power of 164.2rwkw on 11-12psi at about 5800rpm

.6bar will be fine on the stock intercooler, set to about .9-.95 once you get an intercooler for high boost.

I think your gauge should be ok where it is but i have mine tapped into the fuel regulator line (the one at the front). As long as you are reading pressure off the plenum after the throttle body so you are getting a boost/vacuum signal.

Use third gear so you aren't getting too fast on the road to check pressure at 6-7000. 4th at about 120 will give you a fair indication of your turbo response/lag. Longer intercooler pipes will mean slower response once you fit a frontmount.

Hook the switch up to any switched wire under the dash, your stereo power on wire should do it.

Anythin that switches on when you turn on the ignition/acc will have a switched power line.

If you have a non original stereo it'll be easier because most have a wiring diagram on the top. There is always a wire that switches the stereo on/off with ignition, it'll tell you on the top of the stereo. Find that one and splice into it. Run that wire to one side of the BC switch. Run the wire off the other side off the switch to the solenoid (blue wire from memory). Then connect the brown wire to a ground(basically anywhere on the body, just sand off a bit of paint so you get a good connection).

Thats about it. The solenoid only pulls about 1 amp so it isn't really going to overload anything.

Zman, you can get rid of the boost controller if you have an adjustable actuator. Stock one isn't adjustable, but i don't know what sort of car you have so that doesn't mean much

last night i tried to hook up the switch to the lighter for power.. i ended up blowing a fuse.. I unhooked everything (including +/- lighter points, so nothing is touching anything else, and when i go to put a new fuse in, it blows straight away? Whats goin on there?

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