Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm chasing some recommendations of workshops that have done a decent job at rebuilding a rb25 5 speeds in Brisbane. Mine is currently crunching synchro's and i'm looking at getting it rebuilt but some places seem to be useless with imports and/or the quality of work can be quite poor.

Also an idea of the costs you outlayed to have yours rebuilt would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jayson

Edited by Mase
I'm chasing some recommendations of workshops that have done a decent job at rebuilding a rb25 5 speeds in Brisbane. Mine is currently crunching synchro's and i'm looking at getting it rebuilt but some places seem to be useless with imports and/or the quality of work can be quite poor.

Also an idea of the costs you outlayed to have yours rebuilt would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jayson

Hey there mate! I recently got my 4 speed auto transmission fully rebuilt at a place called WS Automatics just over at rocklea. All up it ended costing me $2400!! :thumbsup: looking back now I wish i'd bought a cheap 2nd hand auto box or converted to a manual. Anyway I was very pleased with there work and haven't had any issues with the transmission since. Seeing that your planning to rebuild a manual transmission, it shouldn't cost you as much as rebuilding an auto.goodluck! :(

I use and recommend Hart Transmissions on the northside, 132 South Pine Road Strathpine, 38812644. They have been building my race boxes for a long time. If you cal them, tell them Stuart from Warwick sent you. My last rebuild on a race box that gets abused was under 1k. Obviously yours will depend on what has gone bye bye.

Hey man i sent an email to the guys at http://www.pgr.net.au/ and this is the reply i got.

Hope it helps :)

The gearbox if you have a look on the side of it moulded in large letters should be RP71C. This is the most common gearbox we find in these imports.

To R&R fit new bearings, seals and oil would cost around $12 to $1300.00

Regards

Harold Hiscox

PRECISION GEARBOX REPAIRS

P.O. Box 148

Coopers Plains

Queensland 4108

Q Phone   07 3277 2141

4 Mobile 0412 075 075

M Fax          07 3277 4535

F E-mail: [email protected]

Steve and Russel, at "Diff and Gearbox" in Newmarket Rd Windsor, they do plenty of the drift boys boxes, just done Trent Whyte's R32 rb25 box, mind you its a full PPG straight cut doggie.

I get them to do my close ration RB20/fj20 boxes.

Knowledgeable and quick.

Tell em Jason the Datsun racer sent ya, they treat you real nice, and no anal rape on price either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
×
×
  • Create New...