Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Plazaman plenum $1000

Throttlebody $250 - $500

6boost exhaust manifold $1100

Garrett GT3082 0.86 rear $1550

Wastegate $400 - $800

Intercooler $300 - $1200

ECU $1500 - $2500

Intank pump $200

Injectors $1200

Adj reg $250

Other bits and piece/tuning/labour etc $2000

This is a rough estimate depending on if you want to go 'brand' products or chinese-made generic......

I ran up a receipt log of $15000 when I hit 300rwkw and approx $30000 (and climbing) to the current 430rwkw with the 3 litre hybrid donk. Mind you this is cheap as I did a lot of the work myself, it would be a lot more if you calculate in the labour costs what a lot of these workshops charge.

Have fun with the addiction. Just remember 'Economy' and 'Skyline' dont appear in the same sentence !

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Plazaman plenum $1000

Throttlebody $250 - $500

6boost exhaust manifold $1100

Wastegate $400 - $800

Adj reg $250

there's over $3000 that is not even remotely needed for 300rwkw

Have fun with the addiction. Just remember 'Economy' and 'Skyline' dont appear in the same sentence !

lol how true!

i don't wanna add up what i have spent!

i don't wanna add up what i have spent!

fpr is good IMHO...

and yeah, adding up, grrr Im at something like 20grand in parts, 18g for the car, then probably 8g for tunes, services, maintenance

4yrs and counting = $45k at least, lol

but she's my 15yr car, so 11 more yrs till the eldest can learn to drive :P

fpr is good IMHO...

and yeah, adding up, grrr Im at something like 20grand in parts, 18g for the car, then probably 8g for tunes, services, maintenance

4yrs and counting = $45k at least, lol

but she's my 15yr car, so 11 more yrs till the eldest can learn to drive :P

if you are buying injectors anyway then an fpr is a waste of time and money. the nissan one is well up to the job of flowing 300+rwkw

there are that many troubles with them that some tuners will not tune a car with one.... especially those malpassi ones...

Exactly. Aftermarket FPR's are more trouble than they are worth on most cars unless pushing big numbers or trying to be dodgy and get maxing out injectors to go that little bit extra.

Edited by PM-R33
  • 7 months later...
Finally, I believe that your methodology for working out the power you want is all wrong. You are comparing apples with oranges as far as your 300kw Holden or Ford vs 300rwkw Skyline. Not only are you comparing a flywheel figure to a wheel figure, but the Skyline is also considerably lighter. You DO NOT need 300rwkw in a skyline to be quicker off the mark than a 300fwkw holden or ford.

Adding to this:

Don't forget that the skyline engine is far more advanced than the falco-dunny-door ute engines so the efficiency from engine to wheels would be less than the skyline, ie: they lose more power. so that 290kw might be less than the 218rwkw we usually calculate (30% loss).

Also they weigh what, 200-300kg more? Which smashes the power-to-weight ratio.

you will find the 4.11 diff gears plays a big part in how the skyline performs on the street

even a mild 200rwkw GTST will take down most street cars with ease and continue pulling slowly

this is why you may find you can beat "300kw" badged XR8's etc etc, they have the factory power, but the lateral acceleration isn't there

in my 192rwkw GTST ive had only a handful of cars actually beat me on the street

from memory a quick as auto vl, and a couple of non-non std xr8's etc

on a race track i was able to beat a clubsport R8 315 badged ute from 100 to 200kmh and continued to pull in front ever so slightly

Adding to this:

Don't forget that the skyline engine is far more advanced than the falco-dunny-door ute engines so the efficiency from engine to wheels would be less than the skyline, ie: they lose more power. so that 290kw might be less than the 218rwkw we usually calculate (30% loss).

Also they weigh what, 200-300kg more? Which smashes the power-to-weight ratio.

Are you kidding?

You think your cast iron block skyline motor is "far more advanced" than Ford's quad cam V8?

How about Holden's allegedly power dropping 6 Litre V8 that only needs some breathing mods to run into the 12s NA?

Not to mention that rubbish turbo straight six Ford motor, that is only a couple of pounds of boost away from 300rwkw?

These are not carbie'd 253s out of a kingswood.

Try checking how much an LS2 puts out on a dyno stock. That crap about losing more power than a skyline engine is exactly that. Don't claim it to be a fact.

Dazza and Muzza have the technology now compared to R32/33/34.

Saying all that a skyzer around 200rwkw+ should give most *STOCK* Aussie muscle a damn good run; and thats probably a cheap and cheerful place to be.

Edited by JayTay

it isn't hard to get power out of massive V8 engines even if they are built on caveman tech (holden v8), at least ford are putting some tech into their engines. (the new mustang 5L looks pretty nice and the factory provisions for a supercharger to bolt on, hopefully that makes its way into the XR8

i agree with Paul, my GTST when it was running 200rwkw would pull away from a friends 290rwkw LS1 powered commo.

i agree with Paul, my GTST when it was running 200rwkw would pull away from a friends 290rwkw LS1 powered commo.

I find that very hard to believe, something must be wrong with the commo.

I have a 190rwkw R34 and have raced my old mans tuned ls1 (~225rwkw). With a similar launch mine will get a nose in front and keep gradually pulling away. It does beat it but does not smash it. I would think a 290rwkw cammed ls1 would beat me no probs. I have driven a cammed ls1 and it definitely feels faster than my car. although i have never put them side by side.

Although I have seen a 225rwkw 1350kg commo sit side by side with a ~1700kg 300rwkw cammed ls1 car.

Edited by Harey
it isn't hard to get power out of massive V8 engines even if they are built on caveman tech (holden v8), at least ford are putting some tech into their engines. (the new mustang 5L looks pretty nice and the factory provisions for a supercharger to bolt on, hopefully that makes its way into the XR8

This is true, it's easier to get power out of large displacement engines, but we're also talking about a boatload more power than the old "caveman" V8's, ie. 308/350 302/351.

If only Ford and Holden did a "quality control" model XR6T/SS, that cost 10K more, but didnt have shitful appointments (rubbish leather for the main one) and finishing.

Make an XR6T motor happy to rev to 7500 or so, than bang it in a skyline and you could have some serious fun.

So uh yeah, put a highflow and supporting mods on your R34!

(apologies for off topic)

Edited by JayTay

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...