Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My question is.....

Has anyone tried taking a pressure source from the pipe that comes directly off the turbos and mounting the solenoid on the turbo side of the engine thus keeping the run of the hoses as short as possible?!?

My car is set up like this with my solenoid mounted under my air filters and i have basically zero spike even running 18psi

Edited by DSTROY
My car is set up like this with my solenoid mounted under my air filters and i have basically zero spike even running 18psi

This is on the 26 right?

If so, did u try it any other way before and was getting spike?

Where exactly did u take the pressure source from? Any pics?

  • 9 months later...

old thread i know but saves me starting a new one :D

ive got a profec b spec 2 installed, ive got it running 13.2 (ish)psi on high boost, holds it steady no problems, but when i flick through the menu and get to PEAK BOOST it shows around 14.2 (ish)psi

i never actualy see this 14psi on the screan, why is this?

also is it ok to spike 1psi ? obviously no spike would be better, but can this do any harm?

hopefuly get some good answers, its been worrying me abit :S

cheers

i didn't read the whole thread, but on stock turbo there is no point going over 12 psi anyway....

just run it on your 12 psi setting and the 13psi spike wont matter...

fwiw i run 19psi with the gain on full for a 21psi spike on a blitz dsbc spec s (same same but different) to make the car a little more aggressive

however i also run a progressive timing map so when the boost spikes the timing doesn't

That peak u are seeing is the spike on gear changes and happens so fast its really nothing to worry about.

I cut down my spiking by putting the solenoid closer to the turbos and keeping the run of the hoses to the actuators as short as possible but it still spikes within 1.5-2 psi.

also forgot to say it only happens when you rev out 1st gear, other gears seem ok

my boost control solenoid is mounted under the air filters, so the hoses going to the wastegates are pretty short !

as long as that 1psi of peak isnt doin any harm im fine with it hehe

profec solenoids pulse too much air out, use a restrictor. Also dont run cheap silicon hose that expands, make sure you run rubber hoses and keep them as short as possible, run signal from the hot pipe.

Blitz dual solenoid is the best, gfb atomic bleed valve is better than the profec comes with an inbuilt restrictor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My first thought is to use something like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/goof-off-177ml-adhesive-remover_p1580913
    • Here it is nice and clean and for shits n giggles he's the clearly structural piece of trim it was holding down. 馃槵    
    • A lot of the trim pieces on the E39 are super brittle and just dissolve when you try to get them off. It looks like a previous owner has used what can only be described as an industrial construction foam adhesive to glue down a tiny piece of trim.  Unfortunately this part of the tailgate is starting to rust because of how much shit is in here. This is stopping the water draining and there's a big build-up of dirt that is just staying wet. How can I remove this? Would a flap disc get rid of this?  I think this car spent a lot of time inland. There's so much light coloured, fine dirt and dust everywhere.  Sorry for the pic. I've cleaned this all up now so I'll get another pic of it clean today.
    • Surely, just about any shop that has done a Skyline (or Supra, or RX-7, or EVO, or WRX) will have done E85. But perhaps you need to specify what type of car, what type of engine, what ECU, you propose to be using.
    • Try an oil additive. There's a couple of options for "easier shifting". These are essentially a similar idea to what Redline put into their Shockproof gear oils. I had a 2nd hand R33 (in fact, as of right now, it is still in the car) that simply would not engage any gear with the engine running, with normal gear oil in it. We dropped that and replaced it with Shockproof lightweight, and suddenly the gear lever did what it was supposed to. At a cost, of course, of the then ongoing damage to internals done by running Shockproof. But the synchros were already totally uninterested in life, so there was no loss.
  • Create New...