Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A mate of mine today went to get RWC for his car and he failed because there was like a tiney amount of rust on the front and rear passenger door. Were talking like 5c coin sizes. I was just wondering why does rust fail the RWC, I dont see how it effects the vehicle on the Road and when I did my RWC a couple of days ago I dont recall seing a box that said anything about rust.

So any info would be great on this because I'm also looking at buying another car and the guy said it has some minor rust.

Cheers,

Aleks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278740-failed-rwc-because-of-rust-really/
Share on other sites

yeah rust is a nono

but some people misinterprite the rules regarding rust and compliance ti rwc standards

afaik only structural rust or rust holes in a panel are a fail bubbles are not

as i said thats what ive always been told and ive never had a problem adhering to that

yeah rust is a nono

but some people misinterprite the rules regarding rust and compliance ti rwc standards

afaik only structural rust or rust holes in a panel are a fail bubbles are not

as i said thats what ive always been told and ive never had a problem adhering to that

Hmm, I think i might stear clear from the vehicle then I don't want to start fixing crap thats rusted lol.

There is a way though... if he doesnt want to properly fix the rust right now just use bog and spray paint it so no visible rust = RWC

Happened to me ages ago and was told as long as there's no visible rust should be fine for RWC

There is a way though... if he doesnt want to properly fix the rust right now just use bog and spray paint it so no visible rust = RWC

Happened to me ages ago and was told as long as there's no visible rust should be fine for RWC

LOL, how stupid is that seriously, the rules in this state are retarded.

Your last three threads in the QLD section...

Just putting it out there... Soz but I cant hold it in anymore...

(edit) change that to last four threads...

Whats wrong with them, I need information. And they are not all related. I know I asked for a RWC and now the rust issue, but its not related its for two separate vehicles. 1 car I have now (thats the one that went for the RWC), The other is owned by a friend and then when I went to look at another car to buy as project it had some rust on it, and my mate was telling me that his one failed the road worthy because it had rust, so I just wanted to check what the rules are around that area. The car I was looking at wasn't registered so I presumed it would need to be towed, but apparently you can get a on day rego.

So tell me o wise one what is so retarded about my posts? We cant all be smart like you COL and build 300KW monsters and know everything about everything and every rule and towing company in QLD. So sorry if my posts were retarded to you.

Its ok dude, im just having a lend...

PS> You dont have to be smart to build a 300kw skyline, just read these forums...

I was wondering when someone was going to put my posts together and say its dodgy :D

It had crossed my mind numerous times :D

There we go now you know so no more need for speculation lol One was for my vehicle, one was for a mates and the other one was for a car I was looking at but didn't end up getting because it was in shit whole condition lol.

+1 I just bit my tongue and moved on :)

I wouldn't call your threads retarded .....just amusing

OH well this is the only forum I know where I can get general information about laws and other car stuff thats specific to QLD even though I sold my skyline about 2 years ago :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
  • Create New...