Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I guess the surprise inside was why the engine was $3500 USD :P ?

"I got everything for 3500 bucks, which, if you know anything about pricing of the GT-R engine, that's a steal."

Haha, well now you can get a GTR engine for 3500 all day long. I bought one 5 years ago for a 240sx for almost 7000 dollars. insane.

That said, I pulled the engine from a running GTR stateside from a guy who was a friend of mine. In fact when I told the guy I bought it from (3 years later) that it was messed up, he gave me an RB30 longblock, but since it won't fit in my my BMW, I'm saving it for another project...

Haha, well now you can get a GTR engine for 3500 all day long. I bought one 5 years ago for a 240sx for almost 7000 dollars. insane.

That said, I pulled the engine from a running GTR stateside from a guy who was a friend of mine. In fact when I told the guy I bought it from (3 years later) that it was messed up, he gave me an RB30 longblock, but since it won't fit in my my BMW, I'm saving it for another project...

love it mate cant wait to see the finished car

Just out of interest what are specs of your rims? I have the same rims on my GTST but they look like some cool offsets where did you get them?

why is the manifold runners soooo long and soooooo large in diameter for such a small turbo?

also it could be a good idea to do some proper heat shielding of the exhaust beside the box or u could run into box problems with overheating oil

why is the manifold runners soooo long and soooooo large in diameter for such a small turbo?

also it could be a good idea to do some proper heat shielding of the exhaust beside the box or u could run into box problems with overheating oil

It was the shortest runner length I could use and maintain equal length. Since the turbo sat so far forward, runner number 6 basically dictated overall length.

The diameter isn't that large, really: It's a 1.5" schedule 10 manifold with a wall thickness of .109.

That makes the inside diameter 1.682", that's a flux area of 2.22 in^2

The RB26 exhaust port has a flux area of 1.60 in^2.

That's only 30% larger than port diameter. Which is on target to a decent amount of literature I have read. Shorter runners would have been better for my setup, but it's gotta be what it's gotta be...

* Runner 1: 20.790

* Runner 2: 20.861

* Runner 3: 20.794

* Runner 4: 20.759

* Runner 5: 20.801

* Runner 6: 20.786

Standard deviation: .033

manifold1.gif

Edited by ctnewman
Alot of time and effort there mate, top job so far.

May I ask why the dump going where it does?

SAFE to run it there

looks like it would foul on the steering link if it was in the 'usual' position.

Ive seen EVO drag cars with the turbo mounted behind a shield in the passengers footwell...so i dont see it causing an issue.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Got the transmission in today. Not as easy as I expected, the little bump where the starter goes contacted the firewall. I had previously only installed the trans with no clutch, so it could slide nearly straight up. This was not the case now, but it went in without TOO much effort. Starter went in too.

I also permanently mounted the brake booster as well as the clutch/brake pedal assembly.

Lastly I made up the last piece of the fuel feed line, had to order a few parts from summit to finish up the return, but I know where I am going to mount the regulator now...

I feel it's little stuff like how you mount the lines that really makes a build good... I hate zipties and loose hoses.

trans_in01.jpg

trans_in02.jpg

trans_in03.jpg

trans_in04.jpg

not sure if you already explain but why a bmw?

still, nice build and interesting placement of the custom exhaust. in summer its going to get hot in the drivers seat. also, dont you worry about the exhaust heating the transmission?

with the engine colour at first i was ;) but then :P

good to see different types of car builds out there instead of the same old cars all the time!

you might though need some extra ventilation on hot track days..! and also, is your bonnet going to close properly?

love this build, love the engine, love the wheels.. its a + from another member!

good to see different types of car builds out there instead of the same old cars all the time!

you might though need some extra ventilation on hot track days..! and also, is your bonnet going to close properly?

love this build, love the engine, love the wheels.. its a + from another member!

Thanks!

The hood does close:

DSC01382.jpg

DSC01383.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...