Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

just wondering, are there issues with running two brands of semi's?

I posted while ago bout my dunlop direzza's - 2 are just about dead, but the lhs are still really good.

Now ive got my old r888's in the garage, and the best 2 out of that set, are better than the 2 dead dunlops currently on the mxfail..

they are the same profile/size etc.

would there be an issue running the two brands?

say dunlops on left, r888's right?

or would it be better somehow to have the dunlops up front, and r888's rear?

discuss! :thumbsup:

it will be just for the next supersprint @ OP GP in august, then its brand new semi's :3some:

cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278840-mixed-semi-slicks/
Share on other sites

I can't speak for the Dunlops or toyos, but I know you can run the A048s in the opposite direction to what they are usually run... I'd Imagine that it wouldn't be a problem with these either which would allow you to match brands front and back...

But best wait for an expert's (aka Gary et.al.) advice.

never run different tyres on the same axle, least of all semi slicks. You will end up with some difference in grip side to side which will stuff you every time under brakes

No problems with different tyres front and rear, its done all the time.

You will be fine to swap sides as long as the tyres are not assymetric, pretty sure only bridgestone are. no problems with them being directional (one rotation direction) to run them on the other side just mount them on the rim the other way, ie turn them around 180o

Cheers uncle Duncy!

I shoulda just called you first of all :D

Thanks chris and axe also!

Duncan - with these tyres, and my car...what would you put up front and on the rear?

It depends on whether or not you want some understeer or oversteer. My guess is the Dumlops will have more grip than the Toyos, but if they are past it then that may not be the case.

Cheers

Gary

Sorry to hi-jack, but what about rotating front to rear (same side). Assuming moderate and even tread wear on some RE55s - same all around. I've got a little scrubbing on the fronts so hence the need (a little driving style and a little set up related)

yeah I rotate front to rear all the time.

basically if you are lucky enough to have same size front and rear, and are not using assymetric tyres like Re55s you can put the tyre on any corner of the car. so we actively manage them at each race meet to even out the wear as much as possible. 4wd is great for this but most gtst run wider tyres at the rear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any difference in induction noise?
    • If I got a dollar for every flipped commuter missile I've driven past I'd have two dollars   Some people get into wild adventures on the road and I doubt it's gender or ethnicity specific. I'm just glad I don't usually drive during peak times.
    • Just got the car back and gave it a good run back home Power wise, whilst it only made a extra 5 killerwasps up top at 7200 rpm, it made more power everywhere from 2500 rpm and kept pulling much harder all the way, to the point of me relearning when to shift so I don't hit the 7200 limiter, with the old intake it seemed to take alot more time to rev out, and, throttle response is also much improved  As I didn't want to remove the bumper every time I serviced the air filter (basically every aftermarket and fabricated CAI has the filter behind the bumper) it currently has a hektic exposed pod in the engine bay sucking in hot air, this will be rectified shortly after some some of my CAD (cardboard assisted design) for a alloy heat shield feed by the OEM intake tube behind the bumper, this will cop some wrinkle black paint, as well as the intake pipe for that totally OEM look... The only fly in the ointment was that the OEM "strut" brace doesn't fit over the rear runner of the new intake with the 2.5 engine is in the engine bay, as the 2.5 raises the engine up by 20mm, it's not a war stopper, and I didn't notice any difference without it in some twisties, but....... MX5 Mania is bringing in some GWR "fancy pants" braces that apparently do fit, if it bolts up I'll grab it, it is also stiffer than the OEM one, which is a bonus All in all I'm happy with the outcome      Fancy pants "strut" brace that gives the required clearance      This is where the clearance issue was, the GWR extends out past this
    • Well, I'm back from the dyno today. Some things do partially make sense. The pod filter/airbox delete picked up between 6-10rwkw on 98 - because heat soak does kind of affect things and there was playing with tune/timing/AFR. Oddly enough, the car was running much leaner than before. So lean it was audibly pinging on the dyno which I got video of:   70de0dd5-2099-4a71-8b10-6fc833fb9d59.mp4   We're talking going from ~12.7 in the past to the first run being at like ~14.0. It is now tuned to ~12.5 on the Dyno, which correlates to about ~12.1 on my wideband in the car. These matched last time, which is very odd. The dyno plots only show the dyno's reported AFR - should be last time, yet now it no longer agrees and was way leaner. Nobody has an explanation for how a pod can make the car run notably leaner, yet not really give any more power when you add fuel in. A few different types of intake design were tested:   94c22c34-7991-4902-af85-314b5f5bf352.mp4   There was no difference other than IAT with the pod sticking out of the bay. The pod sticking out of the bay (but connected) is actually still warmer than what I usually see on the road. Removing the pod entirely lost about ~2kw. But to be fair, all of the runs could be argued to vary by that amount when temperatures climb etc etc. It's safe to say that the filter isn't causing any restrictions of any note that can be reasonably altered in any way. This is in line with what I'd expect given the Engine Masters testing. 323KW on 98 and ~335KW on E85 is actually a pretty solid result, up about ~45kw from 99% of LS1 cammed combos, with generally much larger cams/exhaust etc as well. It is after all up 42KW (98) and 54KW (E85) from before. +10KW from a pod and removing the box is cheap as chips compared to what the head work cost per kw No, I did not get to drop the exhaust and test. When it comes to exhaust... it all just seems to change frequencies and cost or gain 2hp here or there. I don't realistically think I'll drop this to test it - because there's not much else I can really do about it/route it any other way/make it bigger/just bought mufflers. Engine masters beat the hell out of headers with a hammer to deliberately kink them and didn't lose power at all, I sincerely doubt that going larger primaries would help. If it were even possible for clearance/conversion reasons... which it's not... I may throw the E85 in there at some point and do a drag run to see what MPH it traps for science. It isn't lost on me that ~320kw Skylines do trap about the same MPH that ~370kw F-Body/Corvettes do in the USA for the same  or similar weight. (122-125mph). Of course, if I go there and trap 104mph or something then I'll just 'accidentally' have an accident on the way home from the drag strip and buy a M4.
×
×
  • Create New...