Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know what sort of nut i am meant to use to attach my front bar to the body? And where i can get them from?

Just going through the process of fixing up some of the things the previous owner did, and i noticed he lost a bolt and nut from the front bar so it wobbles around and looks quite flimsy. I would use one of the other nuts as an example, but i cant get them out so i dunno what they look like.

Cheers for any help,

Martin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278891-captive-nut/
Share on other sites

so front bar to the guard?

cant you use a regular bolt with a lock nut?

havent pulled apart an r34 yet, so hard to know on your model specifically

Well it could work, except i cant get my hand or a tool in to where the nut goes to hold it and stop it turning, which i assume would be why they used captive nuts in the first place

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278891-captive-nut/#findComment-4714898
Share on other sites

well - then you could use a nutsert/rivnut but that will only work of the hole in the guard is round, not square like on the 33's

best bet is to find someone wrecking a 34 and see if you can get the "nut" from the guard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278891-captive-nut/#findComment-4715491
Share on other sites

No one knows?

[/quote

see the attached pic for guidance

if its the really hard to get at one 1/2 way along side of bar its about $1-60 from your local Nissan dealer - there is no nut just a phillips head screw going straight into a plastic connector that is a one-way special fit into a hole in the metal part of the guard- in some cases (in my R34) the screw is angled in the connector so as to pull the bar in correct alignment as it is screwed in - to remove it should unscrew ok unless the plastic has been stripped or somone has put in a makeshift non-standard repair - your bar should be closely like the one in the pic - if necessary to try to get enough access undo the last connector (closest to wheel opening) again this is a screw straight into plastic fitting, and just pull the guard out it flexes a fair bit - the engine/underbody fairing is a bloody nuisance so you will need to loosen and try to push it aside also if possible

post-57849-1247700589_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278891-captive-nut/#findComment-4717270
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...