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Hey Guys and Gals (of coarse )

I'm looking to get a front mount intercooler and a boost controller, preferably an electronic one. Wondering if anyone has some recommendations for some good places to shop/install.

I live in the GC and dont have a clue where these places are.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :)

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Hey Guys and Gals (of coarse )

I'm looking to get a front mount intercooler and a boost controller, preferably an electronic one. Wondering if anyone has some recommendations for some good places to shop/install.

I live in the GC and dont have a clue where these places are.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :P

Hey mate,

For your intercooler (depending on how much you will do to your car in the future) a good cheap, safe bet to go with is an FMIC from Just Jap, they're a very reliable import parts company that specialise in mail order. I actualy bought mine through them and fitted it myself, I couldn't've asked for more, I think it's quite rad.

They're on the site as traders, heres the link to the FMIC (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cooling-Pro-Intercooler-K-t138738.html) and here is the link to thier online catalogue (www.justjap.com), if you go through the forums they are cheaper though.

As for the boost controller, I have what's called a 'Bleed T' valve set up from Turbosmart, which basically just opens and closes a valve allowing more or less boost to run. Honestly, its cheap, reliable and really you're not going to change your boost settings at all once you have it set up. I know it's cool to have a little lcd with your poundage shown for all to see, but its a far dearer option and most people have to have them professionally fitted.

If you're wondering what you should be looking at after that (or even before the boost controller because you'll have to have your car re-tuned anyway) is getting an APEXI PowerFC, this is a complete ECU system for your skyline, it adds the most KW per buck and is another bolt-on upgrade you can do, of course you'll need to get it mapped and dyno'd (but you'll have to get the car re-tuned for the extra poundage you'll be running anyway). It comes with a hand controller that displays all sorts of wicked crap for your own personal enjoyment <.< or something, so you get your lcd fix there.

And think about your exhaust too, do all the upgrades you can do before you have to have that tune, that way everything will be in a neat, sexy little package when you're done.

But then again, this is just how I went about things. I asked this exact same question when I started out and this is pretty much the answer I got ... and it helped me out a great deal.

If you wanted to know this was my build order:

Racing clutch

FMIC

Turbo back exhaust

PowerFc, Bleed T (set to 12 PSI, runs 13/13.5 on a cold night. 12 is a safe option for a generally stock car) and dyno all at once

Other shit as well, but they arent really important.

-Kieran

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simple man.

going of my asumpting on you having a 32 rb20 gtst???

as for exhaust i also asume you have somthing as majority of 32s come over here with liek a hks or kakimoto.

1. spent 300-500 on a fmic kit, chinese / jap do the same sort of job. (ISC, Coolerpro, Basic Hybrid) if you spend money on a hybrid they come with instructions, if you pm me your email ill email them, have a read and think about doing it yourself.

2. spend 30-80 on a boost T, asuming you have a boost gauge go for a drive and bleed 10psi.

that will be safe an effective.

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Hey Guys,

Sorry I've been AWOL for past couple of days, but thanks for the information. Its given me some food for thought.

P.S thanks for the PM Redsuns88, I will be giving you a call as soon as I get a chance. I could could not PM back coz I dont have enough posts yet.

Kyle

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I'd advise against a bleed valve. They are a cheap nasty way of upping boost. You get what you pay for and electronic boost controllers are a better (though dearer) option. Yuo set the boost you want and it holds it for you, no fiddling around, no creeping, no spiking. Spend the money and save an engine later...

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Bleed valves are fine IMO for lower power and lower boost applications. I do agree however with "you get what you pay for" - id never take a bleed over my ID3, its great, and it has protection against overboost, logging etc and multiple settings with are quite useful, also theres other things like scramble boost, if you want to do that, etc...

But for anything under 15 psi i think a bleed would be fine, just my opinion however one of many.

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I've decided to go the electronic boost way, as I initially wanted to. So now its a toss up between the greedy and turbosmart eboost2. I heard that eboost street is not really that good, hence the eboost2. I also like the fact that it can fit in a normal pillar pod, making things look a whole lot neater.

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I've decided to go the electronic boost way, as I initially wanted to. So now its a toss up between the greedy and turbosmart eboost2. I heard that eboost street is not really that good, hence the eboost2. I also like the fact that it can fit in a normal pillar pod, making things look a whole lot neater.

Never seen one of the turbosmart eboost2 before but at the price they must be good.

I would compare specs and prices and see which one comes out on top!

If they are mostly the same I would just go for which one you like the look of more.

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