Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts25t


Recommended Posts

Hey im assuming this is fairly normal granted its been pretty cold?? Drips a bit of water too. It all stops once its warm?

Just dont remember my old clubsport doing it quite as much...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey im assuming this is fairly normal granted its been pretty cold?? Drips a bit of water too. It all stops once its warm?

Just dont remember my old clubsport doing it quite as much...

If it stops when warm its nothing to worry about! Mine does the same when cold.:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 to the mentioned above.....my car blows a heap of smoke when cold start and as soon as it warms up a bit then its all sweet......just try not to drive it when its really cold lol

nothing to worry about mate

Link to comment
Share on other sites

don't warm up your car in the morning. bad for your engine. wears your plugs, allows unburnt fuel to condense and drip down past your rings into your oil diluting it.

more relative to what you're talking about, if you warm it up for like three to ten minutes it will take MUCH longer to get rid of the water vapour. Doesn't hurt your engine... it's what it's designed to do. Warming up for 5 minutes is an old wives tale. or husbands. either way, it's lame and misguided.

best way to warm up your car in the morning and get rid of the water vapour is to nanna it until it reaches just under operating temperature (a safe temp is about 70-75°, suitable op temp being between 80° and 95°C).

Try it out, the lot of you. If there's one thing you can trust, it's a dude on the internet. (That dude is Doctor Karl, bitches.)

Edited by Dorigecko
Link to comment
Share on other sites

don't warm up your car in the morning. bad for your engine. wears your plugs, allows unburnt fuel to condense and drip down past your rings into your oil diluting it.

more relative to what you're talking about, if you warm it up for like three to ten minutes it will take MUCH longer to get rid of the water vapour. Doesn't hurt your engine... it's what it's designed to do. Warming up for 5 minutes is an old wives tale. or husbands. either way, it's lame and misguided.

best way to warm up your car in the morning and get rid of the water vapour is to nanna it until it reaches just under operating temperature (a safe temp is about 70-75°, suitable op temp being between 80° and 95°C).

Try it out, the lot of you. If there's one thing you can trust, it's a dude on the internet. (That dude is Doctor Karl, bitches.)

:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

while it is a bit off topic, i am also against the letting your car sit there and idle to warm up. the main reasons being that it takes longer for a car to warm up when it's just sitting there idling, which means the car is running for longer at colder temps. the other reason being that it doesn't warm up the oil in the gearbox or diff.

another thing to take into consideration is that if you run your car for 10 mins every morning before you start driving, over a 1yr period, that is nearly 61 hours of running that your engine has done that hasn't been taken into account on your odometer, which means more than likely not taken into account on your servicing frequency. and not to mention the extra fuel you are using.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

good to hear it seems normal.

I dont really let it warm up by idling the car for extended periods. I just dont rev it or accelerate hard until its at normal temp...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

30-60secs then I drive it. Stagea (being auto) I cruise along at 1500rpm while people behind me hurl abuse. Skyline I shifted at around 1000rpm (3L ftw :blink:) till it was out of cold start (>65deg).

Just don't load it up.

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
×
×
  • Create New...