R34 Gtr Buyers Guide

[Vik]

Hey guys,

Haven't been around for a while, im mostly from NA anyways .

Besides that im getting rid of my R34 25GT and instead of going for the GTT i want my dream ride now, R34 GTR.

I've checked out a few rides that are on Carsales at the moment and my budget at the moment is between $40k - $45k.

First option would be to buy it in Aus, but if i dont find something i like i would most likely look into Importing.

Anyways,

I just need a basic buyers guide or "What to look for" when looking for a neat R34 GTR with no headaches in the future.

Since you guys would know most about the R34 engine itself, more so of the RB26DETT I need some help on some common problems that occurr on the GTR and what to look out for.

Any help would be nice, and if this is in the wrong section for any reason, please move

MRXTCZ

P.S Did a quick search before posting and hardly found any info so this could potentially be a sticky for future GTR buyers

[J'z-R33]

Hey mate,

I found this link to be very helpful when I bought my first R33.. no-where near as nice as a R34 GTR though lol.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/bu...e-f-t35129.html

Once you find one that fits your criteria, Take it to an import workshop and get them to do the once over for you.. it will cost you a couple of hundred but might save you thousands..

Cheers and all the best.

Johno

[DarkChild]

Buying a Skyline GT-R

[Iron Chef]

My first suggestion - if your budget is $40-45K, buy an R33 GT-R and save the rest for running costs and insurance.

[SS8_Gohan]

^^ hahaha, or lots of mods

the Chef does have a good point though, with that budget, you're leaving yourself thin on the ground in case something goes wrong. The budget would seem to indicate the cheapest possible end of the R34 GTR market?

at the moment Chef, what would you budget for a nice example out of Japan?

[Vik]

Well i have funds for the actual insurance and running costs.

The $40 - $45k budget is just for the car alone, and yes it is on the bottom end of the GTR market, but i have seen some good examples which are <$50k

MRXTCZ

[Johnny]

Well i have funds for the actual insurance and running costs.

The $40 - $45k budget is just for the car alone, and yes it is on the bottom end of the GTR market, but i have seen some good examples which are <$50k

MRXTCZ

I dont know if you will agree with this but my theory with cars is always to choose the best model (or close to) in the range as it is your 'dream' car do you really wanna settle for a basic series 1 r34 GTR when the extra toys in the 01+ models are worth more than the sum of its parts.

You could have a series 3 r33 gtr which is the best and final ones to roll off the line or a basic r34 gtr; you will be happy for a little while but once the novelty of owning the car wears off, you will want the better version.

I was gonna import a basic one but after reading the forum and thinking long and hard i decided to buy one of the newer ones cos i liked the new interior and the carbon parts.

Completely your decision just though id add what i was thinking at the time and what i did.

-Johnny

[Vik]

After reading the article from "The Clipping Point", It has made me very curious on the Vspec Model.

I would love to find a nice looking Vspec II or even just a Vspec.

In a car, its the little novelties that make it worth while for me, keeps me entertained lol.

MRXTCZ

[SS8_Gohan]

i'm with you, i'd hunt a V-Spec or V-Spec II - despite a few more goodies, i'm sure it would help you move later on if you wanted to.

[rehab2010]

Thanks for this topic and help guys - very useful.

I'm only a bit worried about this mention of engine rebuild at 100,000kms, that seems awfully low - wondering if forum members have had some experience with this.

[Johnny]

Thanks for this topic and help guys - very useful.

I'm only a bit worried about this mention of engine rebuild at 100,000kms, that seems awfully low - wondering if forum members have had some experience with this.

I highly doubt that unless its been modded/tuned really poorly or tracked all the time.

The engine is quite strong, able to make up to 800hp on stock internals (granted not for long) but if it is strong enough to take that punishment then im sure a lightly/properly tuned rb26 would do the 100k.

[SS8_Gohan]

Thanks for this topic and help guys - very useful.

I'm only a bit worried about this mention of engine rebuild at 100,000kms, that seems awfully low - wondering if forum members have had some experience with this.

i think you're getting confused with that bullshit R35 100K tear-down rumour

[Vik]

Yeah i've not heard of a 100,000km rebuild for a RB26 as being common with the everyday car.

MRXTCZ

[rehab2010]

Yeah i've not heard of a 100,000km rebuild for a RB26 as being common with the everyday car.

MRXTCZ

Its what it said in one of those buying guide links, the clipping point link - I also find it very surprising since RB-26 is known as a strong engine. I'm not taking much attention to that. If the owner takes care of his RB26DETT powered beast, and does not abuse it I would be very comfortable with a 100,000kms "old" one.

Edited July 14, 2009 by rehab2010

[mxfly]

You can have an RB rebuilt at 20,000 or 200,000kms. It all depends on how the motor was treated. Back to your pursue of happiness, try and get at least a V Spec. There's a lot more bits and pieces added to those models. Some that I can think off top of my head.

- rear carbon composite diffuser is so nice to have

- front plastic diffuser

- 2 more readouts on the MFD, intake temp and something else shit I should know this..

- different tuned Attesa system

- more active diffs

- finned rear diff cover for better cooling

I would have loved to own a VSpec II as the updated interior and carbon bonnet is so nice to have, but in the end I found a purple Vspec that I could not resist. Plus, saving myself at least 10 grand that I could spend on wheels, exhaust, turbos, etc.

Imo, there's a huge difference between a standard and VSpec car, but not that much difference between a VSpec and VSpec II, so my suggestion is to find a nice VSpec and have some dollars left over for your first stage mods such as rims, coilovers and exhaust.

[rehab2010]

Can anyone advise if it is possible to differentiate V-Spec/V-Spec II and the normal GT-R's using VIN or something else. I understand that V-spec/II has a CF rear diffuser tray as a biggest differentiator, but it is so easy to fit that to a non V-Spec/II one and sell it as V-spec to unsuspecting buyer.

[mxfly]

Can anyone advise if it is possible to differentiate V-Spec/V-Spec II and the normal GT-R's using VIN or something else. I understand that V-spec/II has a CF rear diffuser tray as a biggest differentiator, but it is so easy to fit that to a non V-Spec/II one and sell it as V-spec to unsuspecting buyer.

It's not easy to replicate the extra 2 sensors on the mfd, someone has tried to do it before and he found out it was a headf**k to do it. Another easy easy thing to check is the rear diff cover. If it's finned it's a real VSpec. If not then you know it's not a real VSpec. Not many people can be bothered to change that part.

Edited July 14, 2009 by mxfly

[Vik]

So there are 2 extra displays on the Vspec, hmm ..

Well now if thats a mission to add on a non-Vspec then i guess thats what im gonna' be looking for to differentiate and uncover a real Vspec compared to a wannabe

My aim of getting a GTR would be in January / Late December.

If im going to be sinking close to 50k into a car, i want to make sure i get the one which i really love.

MRXTCZ

[Johnny]

Vspecs also has some little things different like aluminium pedals n no drivers side handle lolz dunnno why

100% always get a compression test on any car you buy + leakdown inspection....again all this stuff is covered in quite a few guides ive read on here.

[mxfly]

Johnny, you mean VSpec II's have aluminium pedals while VSpec's dont.