Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, my 2003 V35 GT8 Bose 6 stacker CD player is broken and displaying the F0 error. I am using the RCA ins in the TV module to play music from my iPod. When I start my car the CD player tries to eject each of the six CDs in the CD player - so I get a ticking type noise for say 10 seconds every time I turn the car on; then an beep as if to tell me it didn't work.

Is there a way that does not involve me removing the unit from the car to make the CD player forget about trying to load CDs?

Thanks, Ben.

  • 1 month later...

The stacker in my sedan gave in to the "ERROR F0" yesterday aswell... :(

The sound it makes is murderous! Im not going to try and fix the stacker. I have a Chris Rodgers under the seat dvd special, and im in Perth which limits my options... But i do want to put and end to the sound also.

Any DIY's on how to unplug the stacker??

I have the "Instrument Panel Assembly" service manual, but any help would be appreciated.

I was thinking maybe a sledge hammer would do the trick :)

for all those keen, my 350GT-8 sedan bose cd player (6 disc), MD 6 disk stacker, panasonic 7" lcd screen, panasonic satnav (japanese) with 4GB hard drive and SD card slot, factory reverse cam is up for grabs...when I do my full stereo install, i'll post it up..stay tuned!!!

my centre console fascia with the dual climate control and A/C module is likely to go up for sale also...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
×
×
  • Create New...