Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dsc00280avn.jpg

The red circle is where the accual motor is behind the panel.

The 4 green dots are the 4 screws that hold the assembly in place

The 2 red dots are the screws that control the levelness of the window

dsc00281lem.jpg

The blue circle is the alligned bolt

The 3 green circles are where the screw holes line up, in relation the the visible screws

In the first picture you can see my main problem, that is where the window stops at the fully down position. The reason that the window stops in this position is because the gear that the motor turns runs out of teeth before the window is fully down. When in the up position, there is still a further 12 spare teeth remaining on the gear, with wear marks a further 6 teeth up, leading me to assume that it has worked correctly before.

I've had the assembly out a number of times trying to make an adjustment. Ive been removing the motor and rotating the gear to the correct allignment then replacing the motor, but this is where i have a problem. When i re install the assembly into the door, i can only get one screw to line up (blue screw 2nd pic). The 3 other screws holes (green dots 2nd pic) are slightly off when compared to the screws. I cant find a way to rotate the assembly once it is in the door as its in there firm and wont budge. The only way i can adjust it is by using the motor, which then rotates the assembly until the screws line up. Problem being when i rotate it using the motor, im loosing the 6 extra teeth ive gained when i adjusted it, and i end up back where i started.

How am i able to make an adjustment to the gear so that i gain 6 teeth, without changing the alignment of the motor assembly so that i have the green screws line up when i re install the assembly?

Cheers

Edited by Sparky206

Yes im running out of teeth and thats whats stopping it. Problem is that to get the 4 green screws in, the window has to be at the same position each time, otherwise they do not line up. Meaning that if i adjust it while its out, i end up having to run the motor a bit to rotate the screw holes so that they line up, then im back where i started.

it doesnt matter if the window is up or down, to get the screws to line up, the window and hence gear needs to be at the correct spot, what im looking for is how to change this spot about 6 teeth further up

I replaced my motor recently. Best way is to undo everything so its not hooked up at all, then like you said, run the window untill you get clearance to remove whats left and re-assemble the motor correctly.

I had an issue with mine that where the glass runs through the rubber by the mirror, there is a seam in the track. For some reason the seam split and caught the rubber/glass and popped and cracked all the plastic wheels in the track. :blink:

Its not overly hard to take everything out. Just think about it and mark the adjustable areas if your unsure how they go back.

But by the sounds of it, for some reason yours has either skipped the teeth somehow, or someone put it together wrong previously?

I just realised how incredibly difficult it is to try help with problems like this haha. Need to point and show! E-Info = :blink:

If you do get it out, for goodness sakes be CAREFUL with the tension coil. That thing randomly popped off my regulator sitting on the floor and took a chunk out of my garage floor. If it doesnt hit anything on the way, it could cause serious damage to your head, or paint job/glass. LOL

I think it has been put togeather wrongly before, judging by how rounded the screws were. I have no problems getting the assembly out, ive had it out 4 times now. Its just that any adjustment i make, means that i can not get the green screws to line up again

  • 2 months later...

I had to pull my motor out the other day as the window was stuck down. Im waiting for the replacement to arrive, but Im worried about being able to put it back together as this is my first attempt.

To take it out I undid the those 4 "green" dots from your first photo, then the 3 screws that hold the motor on. What is the easiest way to put it back together to make sure everything aligns etc.? Should I pull out the regulator out and out the motor on? Or try to put the 4 "green" screws back on then put the motor in? Im not really sure where the "green" screws screw onto! Its so hard to see whats happening in there!

Any help would be great!

  • 2 weeks later...

All in and working.

But I think my switch on the door to control the windows may be dodgy and the reason why the motor burnt out in the first place.

Can someone tell me on there S1 R33 the drivers side switch to lower and raise the drivers window, which way do you move the switch to lower the window? On mine you pull it up towards you, which doesnt seem right, as the passengers window you push the button down (away from you).

On every car I've ever seen it's always down with the switch for window down. Has yours always been this way?

The polarity is incorrect. Did you just plug the motor into the connector or did you have to wire it because there was no plug on the motor? The other possibility is you've got a LH motor and that might explain the reverse polarity, can't be sure because I haven't seen the passenger motor or regulator.

Well I just checked the the plug again and it only goes in one way. As for the motor, Im pretty sure drivers and passengers are not interchangeable, I think they are mirror image. Plus the motor looked exactly the same.

TBH Im not sure which way the switch went because, I'd only had the car a week or so before the window played up. And the switch seemed dicky then. It does seem odd to pull the switch up to make th window go down.

On every car I've ever seen it's always down with the switch for window down. Has yours always been this way?

The polarity is incorrect. Did you just plug the motor into the connector or did you have to wire it because there was no plug on the motor? The other possibility is you've got a LH motor and that might explain the reverse polarity, can't be sure because I haven't seen the passenger motor or regulator.

I tell you its starting to do my head in! I just checked the wires again, and they are plugged in the exact same way as the old motor was. The wires are the exact same colour aswell. I checked the passengers side motor wires and they are slightly different. So looks like it is the right motor etc. Could it be anything else, like the black box causing this? Also would a I do any damage if I tried the wires around the other way?

Could be that someone's reversed the polarity of the switch then. Can't really think of any other reason why you'd have to lift the switch to make the window go down. I wouldn't reverse the wiring, see if you can find yourself a new switch from someone wrecking a 33. I think the switches (connectors) are different between S1 & S2.

Could be that someone's reversed the polarity of the switch then. Can't really think of any other reason why you'd have to lift the switch to make the window go down. I wouldn't reverse the wiring, see if you can find yourself a new switch from someone wrecking a 33. I think the switches (connectors) are different between S1 & S2.

All good mate, I rang the bloke I got the motor from. He advised me to reverse the wires as you suggested. He said it may have been rewired wrong when it got refurbished. So I swapped the wires and it works like new! Very happy camper! Thankyou to everyone the helps on this forum!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
    • There is a known issue with the mix door motor on the Q50 which causes these symptoms, not sure if it is common on the Y51 though.
    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
×
×
  • Create New...