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I'll take pics of it tomorrow and you tell me maybe, or maybe I could look at my C210 service manual ans do some checking for myself eh!

The part I have is out of a KDR30.

Ummmmmmmmmmmmmm, bugger it, I'll take the piccy now.

BBS, D

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D, the 260 is like your one, also symetrical. There is no other option than to have one made. I took it to a spring place today. They think they can do it and it'll be around the $200 mark. I also had my mate who sold me the 260Z shafts ring me , as he has someone wanting a R200. Wanted to know if I'd sell it. I was for a moment tempted and if it was'nt for me really really wanting LSD, it might have been different.

On a brighter note, my strut brace turned up today( shit I have'nt checked to see if it fits). Back soon

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D, the 260 is like your one, also symetrical. There is no other option than to have one made. I took it to a spring place today. They think they can do it and it'll be around the $200 mark. I also had my mate who sold me the 260Z shafts ring me , as he has someone wanting a R200. Wanted to know if I'd sell it. I was for a moment tempted and if it was'nt for me really really wanting LSD, it might have been different.

On a brighter note, my strut brace turned up today( shit I have'nt checked to see if it fits). Back soon

Pheewww, it fits.

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And would any of them be 4.1?

Got 2 x 4.11 & 1 x 3.9:1 but none for sale.

I am trying to swap a 4.11 for a 3.9 with Stewart Wilkins because I want a 3.9 for the PNV and both for the DR.

A bit of advice for you Ricky, before you put your diff in, get it sorted by an good diff guy, because they were a sales gimmick more than a performance option. You will want the clutch shims operating at about 70lb, otherwise it will be an expensive single spinner. The pre load stock is about 20lb which is SFA.

I have a Cusco 4.11 with about 75-80lb pre load that is destined for the DR for the October 4th Oran Park track day in NSW.

Cheers, D

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My "spin" on R30 R200 LSD's .

From the factory I think they only had one set of active plates in both sides where the Nismo ones had I think four sets . They also have a steel disc in each side that you remove which makes room for the extra plates .

I had AJ pull mine down and fit the extra plates and it's pre load was ~ 65 lbs static (DR30 rear end in Bluebird) .

Even this for road only was possibly a little high and around 50 may have been better .

What it used to do was load up the center in first gear 90 degree take offs and judder a bit due to reduced differential action .

The Ghost has my spare R200 R30 driveshafts .

PM Dennis .

Cheers A .

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WHAT!! you mean I gotta spend more money again. So what'll happen if I just install it and go launching in it? don't tell me i'm going to break it. So now I need to install some plates. Will a difff place tell me what the current static lb is. F$%#K me this had better be worth it, like dropping a whole second of my 1/4 mile time.

L.S.D= LOST SHITLOADS of DOLLARS

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Sorry Ricky,

Welcome to the land of high performance motoring!

R200 LSD's are fantastic bits of equipment, but they cost money to set them up right. They are the Japanese equivalent in IRS to a Ford 9 inch & virtually indistructable. You can break the gears (crown wheel & pinion) but never the LSD hemisphere which can be swapped from diff to diff.

And any spares I have are being kept now I have a track car too!

Cheers, D

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New moustache bar was completed today, unfortunately I can't pic it up till Monday due to work. They haven't worked out the price yet.

Also ordered new rims, 16x8 superlites, -4 for the back and 0 offset for the front. Hoping to run 235/45R16 on the rear and 205/50R16 on the front. Slowly it's coming together. I'm also getting the car repainted in ?????? colour.A friend of mine has almost finished his new workshop out on some acreage, he's an ex spray painter. He's talking $1500 as there isn't too much prep as my acrylic is in good nick. I' still haven't buffed it back yet, now there's no need, even better.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Farrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrk!!! excuse the outburst of total, and absolute frustration.Straight bolt in! where's that f'n gun. After hours of toil under the car, I got the R200 in complete with new moustache bar which actually does fit.Went to bolt the driveshaft to the pinion drive flange on the LSD and guess what? they're totally different sizes. The 4 little nuts and bolts don't line up at all.Farrrrrrrrrrrrrk again. Now I'm going to have to some how modify my driveshaft flange to suit the R200 flange. Got to say it again Faaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrk!!!!!!!!!! Don't suppose this has happened to anyone else by coincidence?

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this site s kinda lame, but shitcans of info and pix

go right through this

http://project240k.com/

particularly

http://www.project240k.com/index.php?optio...9&Itemid=29

Considering the scope of the engine upgrades planned for the car, i had started to do some research into how i could get some traction out of the car. For this, i figured i needed an LSD differential.

My two main options were to either try and find an R180 LSD (R180 is the standard Differential for the 240K) or to find an R200 LSD differential. The R200 is huge in comparison to the R180, and comes in 2 versions, the Longnose R200, used in 260Z's and import R31 Skylines, and the short nose R200; in most 90's nissan performance cars (Skyline, 200SX etc.).

LSD 180's and long nose R200's are really hard to find, with many going for over $1200 second hand (and with no guarentee of working), and although short nose R200's are wasier and cheaper to find, it wasn't clear how easy it would be to fit the LSD core between a short nose and long nose (afterwards, i found this great site:

I managed to track down an open R200 Differential from a 260Z relatively cheaply, whilst it isn't LSD, i can worry about that minor detail later.

The long nose R200 fitted really well in place fo the R180, with the only modification required being a custom moustache bar for the rear. The R200 i bought took uni-joint half shafts, and i will look into converting these to CV's later on (for more power handling)

http://www.project240k.com/index.php?optio...7&Itemid=34

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Ricky - that really sucks about the flanges. I feel sorry for not doing more research about R200's before recommending you go down this path.

This won't make you feel better at all, but out of interest I pulled a (Datsun) univesal joint driveshaft out of my (Subaru) clircip-type LSD and had a look at how my diff guys got the damn thing to stay in place without it falling out.

Turns out there is provision for the bolt in there. Either the subaru R180 diff comes with a redundant bolt hole, or the diff guys recycled some of my Datsun diff centre. For being so ignorant about how to cobble together diffs from various models it looks like I got off lightly compared to the headaches you have been having.

I did Ghostriders trick of jacking up the rear, and both wheels turned, so it is an LSD, not the original open-wheeler.

post-26626-1249285737_thumb.jpg

post-26626-1249285814_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for the words of sympathy Drew, I also should've rung around and found out the pros and cons of undertaking this task. After reading about your recent pains my probs don't seem so bad. At least my motor still kicks ass. Also today my friend who builds up Z cars told me he can change the drive flange on the R200 to suit my tailshaft, this could finally be the end of my probs. Rick.

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