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Diff Conversion


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Ricky,

The problem your having now with the tailshaft companion flange is this; the DR30 flange is designed for the 3" dia tailshaft and therefore has a bigger flange. What you need is the flange to suit your tailshaft, it's not a biggie issue as I had the same problem fitting my Cusco diff into the PNV. Just take off the nut with a socket and with a suitable puller take off the companion flange and replace it with an R200 standard tailshaft flange and I think you will find that on an 260Z open R200 diff.

If you want to sell the larger flange, I'll be very interested.

Cheers, D

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what did you pay for your conversion drew??

Got some type of R180 LSD with a smashed rally car I bought, which I blew up doing my first and last burnout in the white car.

I then forked out for a r180 Subaru diff centre on ebay UK. Maybe $300, cant remember.

I also got a free Datsun 240k open wheeler from a mate.

I gave the broken diff, open-wheeler, subi diff centre and $160 to a diff place, and that was it! A hell of a lot less grief than the r200 conversion, but I've already busted one, so it's not as tough a set up as the r200.

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D, your totally on the money. By the time you read this post my flange should have been changed out with a 260z one and a victory burn out? stay tuned as I'm getting new tyres once the Superlites turn up, actually more likely after I've done a few more overtime shifts. Luckily it's shutdowns galore at work currently. Cheers for your help, oh and D that flange is your providing I don't have to do a trade in deal.

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Ricky,

If your inclined to spend some more of your hard earned dollars and want to make your drive shaft assembly stronger, go look for a D21 Navara in a wrecker and you might be surprised to find the back half from the centre bearing is same as a DR.

Cheers, D

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It's done, finished, finito. I've just been around the block at a steady pace and no clunks or grinds, in fact it's quiet as. I've still got one nut to tighten, one of those hard to get to at the time ones, but now that the tail shaft is rotated I'll get it tomorrow. Thanks for the help and support.

D, I have that flange still and it's yours for the freight price. Cheers Rick.

Ps Navara, not now. Maybe Lattttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttterrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr much lattttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttter

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Hi Nigel, once I buy another digital camera, I'll take some pics. My one year old camera hit a wall, floor and floor again after it decided to jam up, ahem! it doesn't even turn on now.I'll take pics of the items I changed out and renewed.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Got some type of R180 LSD with a smashed rally car I bought, which I blew up doing my first and last burnout in the white car.

I then forked out for a r180 Subaru diff centre on ebay UK. Maybe $300, cant remember.

I also got a free Datsun 240k open wheeler from a mate.

I gave the broken diff, open-wheeler, subi diff centre and $160 to a diff place, and that was it! A hell of a lot less grief than the r200 conversion, but I've already busted one, so it's not as tough a set up as the r200.

coupe72001, the little parts that your driveshafts bolt into on the Datsun and early Subaru diffs are like little threaded buttons. I'm guessing the diff shop used your retaining buttons and all the datsun parts with the WRX centre. I'm guessing since it's an R180 centre it's the stock STi unit? Is it a clutch pack type one?

Also on the topic of stock longnose Nissan R200 LSDs I ran one for years in my S12 (in fact it's still in the car now, 3 owners on) and it was fine. It copped a flogging too being an SR20DET powered drift car. So I wouldn't be too worried about the lockup ability or life expectancy of the diff.

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That: "I'm guessing the diff shop used your retaining buttons and all the datsun parts with the WRX centre," sounds like a cracking theory.

You are also correct in guessing the r180 LSD is a standard STI clutching type. Do you know much about them? Will I need a diff place to adjust the pre-load, or should I just leave it alone?

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Hi Nebuckernezzer, I do believe this is going to last a while now that it's in. Took it out the other day and did a bit of clutch dumping, the LSD worked really well with both wheels biting down really well.

Now I want to increase HP, but still don't know which avenue to persue. Lately I've been thinking about turbo on my L28/3.0L as there is a L24 turbo with inter cooler(in a HR30) for sale around my way. But would it put out more power than my triple 45's? guesss that comes down to amount of boost. I'd have to lower my comp ratio also I reckon.

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Hi Nebuckernezzer, I do believe this is going to last a while now that it's in. Took it out the other day and did a bit of clutch dumping, the LSD worked really well with both wheels biting down really well.

Now I want to increase HP, but still don't know which avenue to persue. Lately I've been thinking about turbo on my L28/3.0L as there is a L24 turbo with inter cooler(in a HR30) for sale around my way. But would it put out more power than my triple 45's? guesss that comes down to amount of boost. I'd have to lower my comp ratio also I reckon.

Turbo, Intercooler, aftermarket fuel / spark management, is the way to go.

Nigel

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What's the break away torque on a stock STi LSD? If you drive it and it seems fine then it's probably fine :D. I've used a few LSDs all in R200s (KAAZ, NISMO, R32 GTR clutch pack and R31 GTSX clutch pack style) and they were all fine for most things. The stock style clutch pack diffs were the 'loosest', so they didn't lock up as quickly but once locked they were fine.

I'd go for the 'if it ain't broke...' theory and not do anything to the diff if it seems to be fine now :P.

As for reliability....probably down to driving style! At least with an LSD you won't single spin it and have your spider gears flying around and falling apart so it should be fairly tough. I've only used R200s up until now (my 200B has an R160 in it though...) and I've never had any issues with them (as usual for R200s) with rather abusive driving.

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But would it put out more power than my triple 45's? guesss that comes down to amount of boost. I'd have to lower my comp ratio also I reckon.

Ricky,

Why do you want power??????

I'm going with 8.7:1 in my PNV and should get about 400+ Nm @ around 4500 from my 2818cc L20et, with maybe 200HP at the wheels, on less than a bar of boost. The trick is let it breath and boost that, if you want torque, bugger the HP, you cant use HP till at the top end and how often are you there.

A very wise, now rather old US gentleman was once quoted to say "Horsepower SELLS cars, but torque WINS races" and that gentleman was none other than Carol Shelby.

Why do you want HP when you have an L30 & triple 45's????

9~9.5:1, cam etc would be just about the best for you.

Cheers, D

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[i couldn't respond straight away to your remarks, I had to go away and deal with my ignorance. I guess whenever i go to the drags, I'm not thinking ,gee that car must be making some torque. It's more like, "f@#@k thats got some HP, so in this small vaccum of a mind I have, it's always HP that seems important. I did a run a while back over the quarter, mind you I had skinny tyres and one wheel spinning to much and it was my 1st time, also no rev counter. I posted a 15.8 and will be back soon armed with bigger tyres and a LSD, hoping to drop another second. I'd really like to make high 13's. I doubt I'll get there with the current set up unless I spend a few big bucks. The current cam is a "c" stamped Nismo competition cam, but I'm thinking this may need to be changed or go turbo?

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