Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

well currently Im trying to sell my R33 to get an R32 GTR.

So far I have advertised it in local paper, Unique Cars mag (just came out last week) on here, SDU and performance forums.

Ive only had like 2 serious people who never followed up. Is there anything else I can do to try and sell it, or maybe is the price too high ($28,000 ono)??????

Or isnt there much of a want for R33 GTS-T's?

thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2790-how-can-i-sell-my-car/
Share on other sites

I'd imagine its the price too.

A lot of stock R33's are going for under $20K now.... There is just so many of them for sale, more than what they are in demand! I'd imagine the best price you could hope for would be low to mid 20's. I know it sucks, especially if you bought it 2 years ago when they were really expensive (in comparison), but there is not much you can do about it...

Ethan: being a series 1, $28 K is going to be VERY difficult.

Example: Merlis Silver 95 model was being sold for $25K, Work Meister wheels, Full whiteline suspension, 400R/GTR bodykit etc and some extras in showroom condition. I dare say $25K is prolly as high as you will get.

Nick

Good luck, dont worry a buyer will come along but as ex-static said it takes time

Originally posted by BY BY

Ethan: being a series 1, $28 K is going to be VERY difficult.

Example: Merlis Silver 95 model was being sold for $25K, Work Meister wheels, FUll whiteline suspension, 400R/GTR bosykit etc and some extras in showroom condition. I dare say $25K is prolly as high as you will get.

yeah I know what you mean, but if you take a look at my Ad I put in the forsale section, I have alot more mods than Merli too. Plus I have the full suspension, full bodykit, lots of mods, showroom condition too........

But if i do get $25k, then yes ill be happy with that :cool:

well personally I think selling cars is a bit like selling a house... u let as many ppl know as possible and hopefully u find the right person.. for example... dad sold his house for $800,000... no one wanted it cos it is a horse property and out of most ppls price range. 12 months after it sold - the owners ran into trouble and sold it.. for 1.4 million.. all it was is luck that the right person came along..

now back to the point.. advertise your car everywhere.. print out flyers and post on local boards in shopping centres, uni's etc...

post it on as many forums as possible... fast fours forum is one that you could try (forums.fastfours.com.au).

Basically, the more ppl that u reach, the more likely you will find yourself a buyer.. also, FOR SALE sticker on window can help etc.

Also, depending where you work, you might have access to large email lists / fax lists.. always a good idea as u never know who might read it..

hmm.. hopefully all above isnt too much bull**** and makes sense :cool:

also, i dont think ONO or negotiable is a good idea..

when i look at cars.. if it says $28,000 ONO.. i would only offer 23k or so.. if it just said 28,000 i would offer 26k ish... in reality no price is set and there is always room for bargaining.. so why let them know that u dont really want 28k..

I believe when advertising in local papers etc you shouldnt go into too much detail about mods, because u are limiting your market...

Some people get scared off when you have too much listed as there is a greater chance that it has been thrashed....

Be very limited on info and let the people come and see the car and appreciate it "in person":)

Although I don't want to sell my car yet eventually every one will I guess, but the fact that you can import one in cheap really sucks when your trying to sell one already here, perhaps there should be a limited number allowed in the country, this could be one way of making the resale value hold, otherwise there gonna depreciate faster than a commodore.

ethan i spoke to u on irc the other nite, i was wondering wud it be easier to sell if u took some of ur mods out and sold it seperatly and lowerd ur price?

I was thinking if i cant get the price i want (i want the same as u do for mine) i mite take off some mods becoz i know some people mite be interested in them if i sell the car.

ethan I told onarun this and most of you should understand as far as mods go they have little bearing on sale price look a pawel his car had bucket loads of money and he brought his pice down. what you paid for you car is irrellevant how much you spent on mods is irellevant. its a series one and yes its nice but your price is unrealiasitc. also your location doesn't help. If your keen you should say you will go to melbourne or adeaide if there is enough interest.

you are learning all about cars now ethan.

If I was to sell my car the realistic achieveable price for is is 13-14 k and I have spent heaps more I realise this. and I'm prepared to wear it. I have no intention of selling .

selling off your mods is a good thing or do your car up and live with it .

merli decided to keep his car cause he realised he could have a car just as fast a gtr for alot less.

meggala

petesmith: thanks for all the info mate. I will check out the fast fours forum.

The reason why i put ONO, was so someone might offer me $24k or $25k and I was hoping for quite a few offers to get the price as close to $28k as possilbe.

I am thinking of selling my mods too, but I just want to see how it goes for a while first. Ive only had it in Unique Cars for a few days anyway. But if worst comes to worst, ill sell the mods and lower the price.

Unfortunately not much, I bought a new Hybrid FMIC for $705 (usually $880) it's not a big name brand like HKS but, it does the same job.

I got a new SAFC for $540 (usually $770, as you can tell I buy when things are on sale) and I've got a Turbosmart BC I'm trying to sell which was $97 new.

So all up buying new that's $1342, now what's that worth second hand, uuummm not much!

Originally posted by Ethan_R33

petesmith: thanks for all the info mate. I will check out the fast fours forum.

The reason why i put ONO, was so someone might offer me $24k or $25k and I was hoping for quite a few offers to get the price as close to $28k as possilbe.

If your having problems selling your car you cant be too picky. Unless you are getting several offers for you car or you’re not in a hurry to sell you should try and sell to the first serious buyer. This prob means dropping the price, but I think its better than wasting time/money on advertisements each week.

Also it may be better to sell your mods separately. Quite often people look at mods on a car and treat as bonus that they prob are not willing to pay more for. Personally I wouldent pay much more unless a car had a fat turbo hanging of it. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
    • I'll send you a message, but until I know what is OK (and anything that isn't) its kind of hard to work out a fair price. BTW I'm just helping out here, ultimately it is Mel's call what she accepts but I know it will go sooner or later.
×
×
  • Create New...