Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I cant believe this has happened the next day i put my new rims on..

getting on the M2 i accelerated put the foot down.. car looses power whilst gearing down.

no power at all

i can hear the turbo spooling but it's making a wierd noise instead of the familiar high pitch noise...

the noise sounds like a electrical fan thats on it's way out everytime the turbo kicks in...

So far i 've checked the codes on the car and it seems the Air Mass Senesor is faulity and also have another code on the Manifold Absolute pressure.

ive ordered a new AFM but people whom had turbo trouble in the past please shed some light to me..

Do u guys think it's new turbo time??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279106-i-think-my-cars-ed/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hmmmm without seeing I think it may be

+1.

Does it just make a high pitched sound or is it a sort of "Lllllolololololololololololo" type sound when under "boost"?

Not only that, but we had another M35 turbo go last week, exhaust wheel sheared itself from the shaft... Rumour has it, that is rather common... Never heard of it happening myself :)

(Let me know how you go Jase. Hope the info helped.)

Current definite state of origin score;

VIC - 2

NSW - 2 *Danny's is not a definite.... :) ....yet*

Edited by iamhe77
Current definite state of origin score;

VIC - 2

NSW - 2 *Danny's is not a definite.... :) ....yet*

With stat's like that, it's confirmed the C34 is more reliable than the M35 and a much better car.

(let the fight begin) :)

With stat's like that, it's confirmed the C34 is more reliable than the M35 and a much better car.

(let the fight begin) :)

Thats why i stuck to an RB stagea... coulda gone the volvo looking new one, but f**k that.

Whilst I don't want to take this thread off on a M35 v C34 tangent... I am wondering how long an RB's OE turbo would last at 12-15psi... 100,000km's? Doubt it. Not to mention the timing belt... Don't you wish you had a chain instead?

Thats why i stuck to an RB stagea... coulda gone the volvo looking new one, but f**k that.

LOL

I suppose that is why you are selling it.

Must be real happy with your C34, ay?

Edited by iamhe77

Could be just on totally the wrong track here, but i have found with a manual car anyway, when you put power down get a whole lota noise and such but no power its clutch, not too sure how this works with an auto but could it be something there?

Hi Danny

I don't know if this any help to you but I have a spare turbo that I am renting (for lack of a better word), so you could get this rebuilt and then just do a straight swap on the turbo.

The change over cost will be $50, provided I am given a turbo with in tact housing on return.

Let me know if you are interested. Send me a PM.

Cheers

Andy

Whilst I don't want to take this thread off on a M35 v C34 tangent... I am wondering how long an RB's OE turbo would last at 12-15psi... 100,000km's? Doubt it. Not to mention the timing belt... Don't you wish you had a chain instead?

LOL

I suppose that is why you are selling it.

Must be real happy with your C34, ay?

Danny - check your intake piping, you'll be pissed if you start pulling everything apart expecting a turbo fault & discover a loose hose clamp, or split pipe...

WRT to the RB OE turbo at 15psi - not very bloody long. But it's not designed to, whereas the M35's is (theoretically...)

Yes, I wish I had a chain :D I was brought up on the L/FJ series, and the double-row chains are a 'good thing'!

(don't get me started on the SR timing gear - the Nissan engineers were having an off-day when they designed that one)

Not only that, but we had another M35 turbo go last week, exhaust wheel sheared itself from the shaft... Rumour has it, that is rather common... Never heard of it happening myself :)

This is rather common in the 'frog eye' WRX Subarus with the TD04, I know 3-4 WRX drivers who've had this happen, havn't heard of a NISSAN with the same issue though.

With stat's like that, it's confirmed the C34 is more reliable than the M35 and a much better car.

Simple, buy an NA M35 :D ALMOST as much go without the hair drier :P

Edited by chad bob
With stat's like that, it's confirmed the C34 is more reliable than the M35 and a much better car.

(let the fight begin) :P

And did you know it comes in manual, I have heard a few M35 drivers mention they wished there cars had a manual option :)

danny you ordered new parts??

mate i dont use my car mid-week mostly, if you need any bits to borrow i dont mind lending them to test your car. the turbo might be a little hard :P but AFM, MAP sensors etc

lemme know

rofl fighting and such..

i've been doing some crazy research atm

seems like GCG turbos do the highflow job

anywhere else in NSW?

Danny,

i've always got my stuff done at turbo logic in the gong.. never had a problem in the years i've been using him

With stat's like that, it's confirmed the C34 is more reliable than the M35 and a much better car.

(let the fight begin) :blink:

My s2 turbo died at less kms than my M35 has now. The M35 turbo is likely very similar to the one used in the s2 stageas. Either way they are both ceramic and suffer the same limitations. The M35 only runs ~11 psi out of the factory so to my mind the only danger occurs when increasing the boost by either a boost guage or altering pressure somewhere in the system (ie. free-er flowing exhaust).

Of course there are some that are just unlucky, but that happens to the s2's as well (happened to mine at stock boost).

We could always run 7-8psi boost on the M35, but then we'd have to put up with s2 performance :P (just teasing - i used to own one).

Other than this I've yet to see or hear of evidence of any model of stagea having any "weak points" reliability-wise.

*cough* power windows *cough*

I really need to get this swine flu looked at :blink:

I never heard of this being a common fault with M35's...is it?

After a quick search I found 1 thread regarding this - the button still worked but just not the AUTO part.

Sorry Danny, offtopic... :P

Hope you get it sorted...

Edited by pixel8r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1994 Series 3 R32 GTR. Freshly built as the perfect weekender. Has many brand new Nissan OEM pieces (some you can no longer source). Last serviced (April 2024) at V Spec Performance, Melbourne, Australia. Feel free to DM me if any questions. Asking price: $190,000 AUD.  Engine RB26DETT Original 05U block Factory R32 crankshaft CP 86.5mm forged pistons Spool forged rods Factory cylinder head – rebuilt Factory valve train Factory camshafts Factory inlet manifold Factory throttle body Garrett dash -5 turbos Custom intercooler piping with Plazmaman clamps Plazamaman 100mm race intercooler Turbosmart BOV Tomei fuel rail 660cc injectors Goodridge 9000 series fuel lines with crimped fittings Stainless steel front pipes Tomei titanium exhaust with stainless steel cat converter Spit fire coils Powder coated rocket covers New Nissan coil pack emblem badge Fully repainted engine bay in Factory Black Refurbished ABS unit New Nissan brake master cylinder New Nissan brake lines New Nissan clutch master cylinder New Nissan washer bottles Custom catch can (powder coated with Goodridge lines) Steering rack rebuilt New Nissan power steering lines New Nissan AC lines A/C compressor refurbished AC condenser refurbished HPI radiator and new thermos fanes New radiator fans NOTE: All nuts, bolts, fixings new or zinc coated Driveline Factory 5 speed gear box rebuilt Xtreme twin plate clutch Stainless steel clutch line Rebuilt factory transfer case Custom one-piece tail shaft Rebuilt factory front diff Rebuilt factory rear diff Suspension HICAS deleted Bilstein dampers IKEYA formular front and rear arms and tie rod ends New bushes wherever possible Whiteline anti roll bars (underneath car only) Brakes Brembo F50 front callipers – 4 piston AP racing 380*32 front rotors, J Hook design Custom floating hat and calliper mounts Brembo 4 piston rear callipers PFC pads Stainless steel braided brake lines Body New Factory Black paint job Ceramic coated exterior panels New Nissan aluminium bonnet (super rare) New Nissan headlights (super rare) New Nissan indicators New Nissan front bar New Nissan front lower lip New Nissan head light and bonnet seals New Nissan windscreen cowling New Nissan wiper arms and wiper blades New aftermarket windscreen New Nissan windscreen seal New Nissan front doors window surrounds and seals New Nissan rear quarter windows (must replace for proper paint job) New Nissan rear window surrounds and seals New Nissan side skirts New Nissan boot badges New Nismo rear bonnet lip New Nissan guard liners Interior New Nissan lens cover over cluster New Nissan gear boot shift New Nissan gear knob New Nismo steering wheel New Nismo floor mats New Billet Handbrake lever New Nissan OEM pocket facia to replace radio Underbody Original stone guard removed and new stone guard coating applied Powder coated front and rear cross members Fuel lines painted to match factory colours Fuel tank removed, cleaned, repainted and refitted All nuts and fixings cleaned, repaired and zinc plated Wheels Rays/Volk racing TE37 18 x 10.5 + 15 in Bronze Yokahama A050 265 x 35 x 18                         
    • @Supernanoyour car has ended up in my hands and I was wondering if there has been any work done to the motor?  
    • Sigh... yeah OEM mount rear battery, very R33, very demure, very mindful.
    • Would need a substantial current draw in the car to make a bunch of sparks. Obvs to now test resistance to ground of the car's B+ lead. If there's a short there, you'll see it. Only likely place for that, as you suspect is alternator. But there is also the possibility that rats have had a chew on some insulation. Shitbox has the battery in the boot, yeah? Plenty of cable to attack.
×
×
  • Create New...