Jump to content
SAU Community

Getting Next Tune

SkyDragon

By SkyDragon,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted

Have almost the same setup at 264rwkws. Injectors are the go then increase boost. 18lbs would be the aim and I think your turbo will show what it's capable of. Interestingly, You have a Sard BOV when all indications are that the standard BOV is the best way to go. It has been proven time and time again standard BOV's work well. Is yours leaking ? Is there enough spring pressure ? Put the standard one on for next tune. I replaced all my clamps for the BOV and idle control with proper screw type clamps and noticed an improvement in holding boost. Especially the clamps from BOV to intake return. But if you haven't already bought the injectors get the 740's for future experimentation with E85. mmmmmmmmmmE85.

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted
around 4750rpm is where your curve starts to fall

it's definately some kind of flow limitation

always start with the cheapest and easiest possible solutions:

if you've got a 2835, surely you'd have the full 3" exhaust from the turbo back, high flow or no cat, straight as possible.

check your fuel pump and ensure that it's grounded properly and is getting the correct voltage.

check your sensors etc.

does the Wolf V500 an AFM type ecu?

limits of the stock rb25 afm are around around 230rwkw, alot of people upgrade to a z32 using a power fc at this stage.

1.1 bar should be enough boost, once you've got your 550cc injectors in, get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and up the fuel pressure a bit.

Edit: oh yea, also what type of "aftermarket fuel pump do you have?"

bosch 044s are much much better than their 040 brothers.

Why would you raise the fuel pressure when the fuelling issue is already fixed with the injectors. An 040 is more than adequate for the power he is making. Wolf is map sensored.

SkyDragon Community Regular

SkyDragon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Based on feedback, looks like things I can check are;

1. BOV leak

2. Fuel pump voltage

3. FMIC

However it sounds like I am on the right track with fuel injectors at least.

I do not have AFR's from my last tune which was some time ago now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Turn signal wiring question

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • VicFlo
      Speedo and odometer reading super slow r34gtt a/t

      By VicFlo · Posted

      HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • VicFlo
      R34 manual conversion wiring

      By VicFlo · Posted

      what speedo healer did you use?  
    • Duncan
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By Duncan · Posted

      Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Duncan
      Fourth gear grind

      By Duncan · Posted

      Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
×
×
  • Create New...