Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lots of people must have a series 2 RB25DET with an adjustable exhaust cam gear. Has anyone done the testing to determine the best setting? That is has anyone done a series of dyno runs where the only variable was the setting of the exhaust cam gear?

I have one on my Stagea with basic mods: 3in turbo back exhaust and GCG highflow turbo which will be running 1bar (about 16psi) when i install my Z32afm and 550 injectors. It is currently set at 4 (crank) degrees retarded as per SK's suggestion. Unfortunately he never got around to the dyno testing to find the optimum setting. Surely someone has done it? If you haven't I would still be interested to hear what you have set it to but i really want a setting based on real live testing.

Thanks!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279188-adjustable-exhaust-camgear-setting/
Share on other sites

There is no hard and fast rule as to the setting. Each engine will respond differently to changes in cam timing.

Let your tuner and the dyno tell you where the cam timing needs to be for best performance.

You didnt dyno test for the best settings? jebus...

As per what Noel said - every car = different.

Some like neutral, some like 2 degrees, some want 4 or 5. You should test - not just go on someone else's suggestion

  KiwiRS4T said:
Lots of people must have a series 2 RB25DET with an adjustable exhaust cam gear. Has anyone done the testing to determine the best setting? That is has anyone done a series of dyno runs where the only variable was the setting of the exhaust cam gear?

I have one on my Stagea with basic mods: 3in turbo back exhaust and GCG highflow turbo which will be running 1bar (about 16psi) when i install my Z32afm and 550 injectors. It is currently set at 4 (crank) degrees retarded as per SK's suggestion. Unfortunately he never got around to the dyno testing to find the optimum setting. Surely someone has done it? If you haven't I would still be interested to hear what you have set it to but i really want a setting based on real live testing.

Thanks!!!

I haven't tested it on the Stagea, but I have tested it on a number of RB25DET's in other cars with GCG high flows. The -4 degrees is the most common setting for improved reponse, slightly faster boost build and slighty more power from around 3000 rpm to 5000 rpm. Of course you get nothing for nothing, so there is a slight loss of power from 5500 rpm to 7250 rpm. So the setting is dependant of what you want to achieve and it does vary sometimes from engine to engine. As always I would treat the -4 as a place to start, then tune from there.

Cheers

Gary

I just got my adj gear in the post.

Its -4 retarded at the crank right?

so the adjustment would be 2 of the little notches if the inner wheel was turned clockwise - that being if each notch = 2 degrees of crank

thanks

BTW a good post on dyno gains from this is at:

camgear

Thanks for the link but three pages of posts didn't tell me anything that i didn't already know - that an adjustable exhaust cam gear on an RB25 DET can give you a few extra KW. What I really wanted to know is if anyone has done the hard yards and tried a number of different settings to see which gives the best result. It is a pain to do because you have to take off the cas and put it back between each run but as has been pointed out before it is the only way to optimise the setting for your car. I will be doing it this weekend and will see if i can pick the best spot with road testing. If not it will have to wait until I get on the dyno in a couple of weeks. I'll report back!

I doubt you'll find power in the top end... the only thing you might find is midrange improvements with the adjustements.

How much gain is subjective as you already know, peka power really shouldn't change :banana:

  R31Nismoid said:
I doubt you'll find power in the top end... the only thing you might find is midrange improvements with the adjustements.

How much gain is subjective as you already know, peka power really shouldn't change :P

Not really looking for more top end - want more in the mid range. I don't believe in subjective improvements (it feels faster etc). I would be looking for measurable improvement e.g. on the road i will be measuring 60 to `120 times in 2nd gear or on the dyno actual kw.

i wonder what mine is set to, i know dr drift said the factory position was best but i wonder if its different

ive got the bass junky factory hack cam gear adjustable thingy on mine

my top end does feel a bit flat ish - always has and my car never made mega power, 191rwkw was its peak

but the response and low down power is absolutely amazing - even with 213kms on the clock now, its still got amazing response

standard rb25det with usual mods, std turbo, std cams, cam gear adjusty thingy, assloads of ignition timing (peaks near 53deg) on the map

but im dead certain the CAS is backdialed a touch too

Might be a stupid question but... my cheap brand adj gear has the R on the left and A on the right of its adjustment.

BUT looking at pictures of HKS adj gears it is the other way around

For example look about half way down this following ad for parts, he is selling a cheap brand gear but behind it there is a HKS gear box--the markings are opposite.

ad with adj cam gear

Whats the deal.?

The motor turns clockwise(looking from the front) so the cheap gear it correct, ummmm, is it?

  datsfreak said:
Might be a stupid question but... my cheap brand adj gear has the R on the left and A on the right of its adjustment.

BUT looking at pictures of HKS adj gears it is the other way around

For example look about half way down this following ad for parts, he is selling a cheap brand gear but behind it there is a HKS gear box--the markings are opposite.

ad with adj cam gear

Whats the deal.?

The motor turns clockwise(looking from the front) so the cheap gear it correct, ummmm, is it?

You don't have a picture of your cheap cam gear. The one in the photo is correct in that it shows degrees of retard (or advance) correctly on the scale i.e. to retard cam timing you turn the adjustable pulley anticlockwise and the correct reading will line up with the mark. Maybe your cheap pulley is indicating the direction you need to turn the wheel rather than showing the correct scale for adv or ret.
  datsfreak said:
Here is a pic of my cam gear...

If I turn the inner wheel counter-clockwise, it will indicate A(advanced) on the marks..

So this is wrong?

Yep it's wrong, HKS have it right

HKS_Adj_Pulley_Small.jpg

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well some mostly good news and some slight bad news.  Good news is cylinder 6 did in fact only require a honing and I'm good to run my 86.5mm pistons again. I should also get the block back by end of week. Bad news, had a few surprises pop up. First, main and rod bearings were trashed. No sign of any heat damage. I knew right away what caused this... I had not packed my oil pump originally and spent a lot more time than I would have liked cranking the motor to get oil pressure. It sounded fine once started so I chucked it up to luck and forgot about it. Luckily rod and crank are fine and just need new bearings. Engine builder agreed that this was the cause.    Another surprise that carbon covered up very well that I didn't catch, something got sucked up and went through cylinder 1, 2 and 3. Luckily this was no cause for concern, just needed a bit of cleaning up. Valves look fine but he will vacuum test the head this week to confirm. I'm presuming this was something left over from welding my intercooler piping, but we'll never know. I'm going to thoroughly reclean everything.    So all in all, happy the motor is fine, and I'll get it back much sooner than expected. I'll also be taking the time to convert my WMI system over to direct port. I'll snap some pictures of that when the parts come in. 
    • I understand, thanks. Yeah I wouldn't want the car to tip over, I'll try and use the sills, I don't want to risk smashing the chassis rails. I ordered some rubber pucks that have a hopefully big enough slotting. If the front right gives me trouble I can always just make a wood block. I'll measure and inspect the sills closer once I actually take the car up. I hope so, but the rubber blocks I had in hand so far were pretty damn firm, if they are that hard they won't give much way. I'll let you know what happens. Angle grinding rubber isn't one of my favorite tasks. I'll probably start a build thread soon, for my own documentation and "log" as well as sharing what's going on with the car.
    • Kinda something I have been thinking about.  To be honest, we bought it already driving like that.  So there's no telling how long it actually has been driving like this.  Hopefully damage is too bad when we drop the pan.   I am having a hard time finding a site that sells the solenoid for the 5 speed auto, do you have any suggestions?
    • That'll be most likely down the road...  LOL  
    • a stock / option or aftermarket?
×
×
  • Create New...