Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Quick couple of questions to those in the know.

I recall reading about someone who used the crown wheel and pinion from the gts4 diffs and put it inside their GTR diffs. My car is a '97 GTR v-spec and has the A-LSD in the rear with the 4.111 diff ratio.

Do the crown wheel and pinion from the gts4 diffs fit straight into the front and rear GTR diffs ? And what is the ratio of the gts4 diffs ? Someone told me 4.3 but they wern't sure.

Any other info on this swap ??

Cheers !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279254-gts4-diff-parts-into-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

so i did some hunting around on the uk skylines forums.. The gts4 crown wheel and pinion swap is apparently as easy as it sounds.. and the ratio is 4.375.

Does anyone know of any other options for getting an even higher diff ratio ?? 4.5 or 4.6 ?

so i did some hunting around on the uk skylines forums.. The gts4 crown wheel and pinion swap is apparently as easy as it sounds.. and the ratio is 4.375.

Does anyone know of any other options for getting an even higher diff ratio ?? 4.5 or 4.6 ?

4.1 to 4.375 is still a fairly decent climb up mate. You would easily notice the difference in acceleration. EASILY!

Fact is, what is your budget? If you haven't got $3.5-$4k to spend on aftermarket ones, the GTS4 is the quickest set in the family as far as I know.

4.900 - C23 Serena SR20DE 4WD Auto

4.636 - C23 Serena SR20DE 4WD Manual, C23 CD20T 4WD

4.375 - R32 RB20DET 4WD, A31 Cerfiro RB20DET 4WD

4.363 - R34 RB25DE 4WD, R34 RB25DE Manual, R34 RB20E, R33 RB25DE 4WD, R33 RB25DET Auto, R33 RB25DE, R32 RB20DET, R32 RB20E,

C35 Laurel RB25DE 4WD Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DE 4WD Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DE Auto, C33 Laurel RB20DE Manual

A31 Cerfiro RB20DET, A31 Cerfiro RB20DE Manual, S13 CA18DET, S13 CA18DE, C23 Serena SR20DE 2WD, C23 Serena CD20T 2WD

4.111 - R34 RB25DET Auto, R33 RB25DET Manual, C35 Laurel RB25DET Auto, C35 Laurel RB20DE Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DET Auto, C34 Laurel RB20DE Auto,

S13 SR20DE (ABS),

4.083 - R34 RB25DE Auto, R33 RB20E, R32 RB20E (ABS), C33 Laurel RB20DE Auto, A31 Cerfiro RB20DE Auto,

S15 SR20DE, S14 SR20DET Manual, S14 SR20DE Manual, S13 SR20DET Manual, S13 SR20DE (ABS), S13 SR20DE

3.916 - S13 SR20DET Auto, S14 SR20DET Auto, S15 SR20DET Auto, A31 Cerfiro RB20E. 5 & 6 bolt

3.692 - S14 SR20DET ADM Manual, S15 SR20DET Manual. 5 & 6 bolt

3.583 - R33 RB25DE Auto, C33 Laurel RB20E Auto

interesting.. what the hell is a serena :blink:

4.1 to 4.375 is still a fairly decent climb up mate. You would easily notice the difference in acceleration. EASILY!

Fact is, what is your budget? If you haven't got $3.5-$4k to spend on aftermarket ones, the GTS4 is the quickest set in the family as far as I know.

dug up a pretty cool tool that plots rpm vs speed given a set of gear ratios

Current:

post-33895-1247645521_thumb.jpg

Gts4:

post-33895-1247645531_thumb.jpg

hmmmmm

I told you 500rpm today.

And it's not about getting the quickest ratio on the planet, it's whether it will actually fit your application.

The GTS4 diff parts will fit your diff but the Serena (Like a Laurel crossed with a Cefiro I think) might not have the same type. Plus 4.9's are too short for you

I told you 500rpm today.

And it's not about getting the quickest ratio on the planet, it's whether it will actually fit your application.

The GTS4 diff parts will fit your diff but the Serena (Like a Laurel crossed with a Cefiro I think) might not have the same type. Plus 4.9's are too short for you

yea its 500rpm at the top of 3rd.. but only 200rpm down at the 70km/hr range which is where its important. I was thinking of researching the 4.6's from the serena but from what i can gather it was never sold here and might be hard to track down (assuming they would even fit).

plus then i would have ford laser and soccer mum people mover parts on my car.. Starts getting rediculous :blink:

EDIT: turns out the serena was sold here... Might be worth some more research after all.

yea its 500rpm at the top of 3rd.. but only 200rpm down at the 70km/hr range which is where its important. I was thinking of researching the 4.6's from the serena but from what i can gather it was never sold here and might be hard to track down (assuming they would even fit).

plus then i would have ford laser and soccer mum people mover parts on my car.. Starts getting rediculous :blink:

EDIT: turns out the serena was sold here... Might be worth some more research after all.

No, it's more like 300rpm in the 70k zone and 500 later on where it matters.

can anyone confirm whether the crown wheel and pinion from the gts4 will fit inside the 33 gtr v-spec A-LSD ?? I have found plenty of people who have swapped them into 32 gtr diffs and 33 gtr but they dont specifically mention if it will go into the A-LSD from the GTR's (although i believe it will).

Just looking for a definite answer if anyone has done it before ?

upon further investigation, it should fit.

the standard gtr diff is an r200v. The A-LSD version in the v-specs is an r200z. The size of the crown wheel is the same, so you can replace the cw and p from other r200 series diffs into the a-lsd.

also interestingly enough, those diffs i linked earlier from the AWD serena would also fit. If only i could get my hands on them :P

good to hear - please confirm once you've done it.

BTW I'd be very surprised if the serena front diff fits - unlikely to use the same diff in sump setup that gtr/gts4/stag uses

Yea, Dan made me aware of this the other evening. Ah well, gts4 diffs getting picked up this week. IF the diffs dont do enough, can go the gts4 gearbox too for the high gear ratio's. Will update once we've done the cwp swap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So now doing the change and first time dealing with rb so little nervous giving engine power and potential for screwing it up When you align all marks and then remove crank bolt, timing move little I assume you can put the bolt back in once you have removed the pully to get timing to where you want?   here is pic of my both intake and exchust cam aligned, depending on angle you look they seem to be either aligned or a half tooth or so out. Any thoughts? Should you angle your face and look at each mark that way as if looking straight rather than from above as it can be misleading   <a href="https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HfWrGR9b/IMG-4447.jpg" alt="IMG-4447" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JWBqWwr1/IMG-4445.jpg" alt="IMG-4445" border="0"></a>   https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
    • You're probably right about that one. Thanks for your suggestions, I hope I don't need a new 3rd brake light. Although wiring issues might arguably be worse. Right now I'm in the midst of a turbo removal because of my oil leak, other problems are going to have to wait for now.
×
×
  • Create New...