Jump to content
SAU Community

Max Boost For Rb20det With R33 Turbo?

Stunn-R

By Stunn-R,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Kyebidz Newbie

Kyebidz

Posted
Posted

Tooo many haters on here.

Rohan, you just need to be smart about it dude. Decent boost controller and/or bleed valve to make sure it doesnt spike. Heat wrapping or turbo bag to protect from the heat of the turbo. Run good oil and fluids, but most importantly make sure you warm up and cool down your car properly.

You are getting towards the limit of your turbo with 1.3 bar, but if you do the small things there is no reason why you should enjoy many happy hours of drifting.

Stunn-R Collaborator

Stunn-R

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i think i might leave it @ 1 bar with no boost controller, and then hi flow it later and then put the 17psi spring setup in, to keep everyone here happy lol

on 1 bar it bogs sometimes, on 1.1bar it keeps spinning.. which is why i wanted to try it out... i wanna run boost off the gate thus i sold my boost controller...

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Can you explain this for us Nismoid?

Boost is just a measure of the resistance of the head, for the shaft to spin quicker on an RB20 there must be less resistance...

I'm no RB20 expert, but what you're saying is the RB20 head flows better than the RB25 head?

If you have 12psi, do you think the turbo is spinning as fast as when its making 17psi?

Nope.

Kyebidz - a turbo beanie is the worst idea one could suggest, right up there with a Bee-r limiter!

Tthe hotter the housing and turbine wheel - the more prone to failure the exhaust wheel is going to be.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Stunn-R try getting a remap or an aftermarket ECU...

also, I think you're more suited on nissansilvia.

running 17PSI on a R33 Turbo, on a RB20 with stock AFM and stock injectors, you got to be kidding.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Is it me? or are there more nissansilvia kids on the SAU forum, some tool just posted this up "Blanking Off Bov" http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bl...ov-t279384.html

Brockas Proficient

Brockas

Posted
Posted
If you have 12psi, do you think the turbo is spinning as fast as when its making 17psi?

Nope.

Depends how restrictive the head is?

That was kinda my point.

On the same motor, with the same head, with the same turbo and no change in restriction, then of course 17psi is going to require a faster shaft speed. If you were to port the head without touching the turbo, then you would see the same power with lower boost figures (it's about airflow, not "boost").

Boost is ONLY a measure of head restriction, not a measure of shaft speed. Comparing boost levels on different motors with different heads is pointless when trying to determine shaft speed.

cactus Collaborator

cactus

Posted
Posted
lol johhny its not rohan haha

rohan doesnt have a 32 lol

come to a cruise or pm me your number and you canmeet me! i wanna see how keyboard warrioorrrrrRR you are in person lol

Run it at 18psi :iluvff: I had a series 1 25 turbo and ran it at 18psi for about 8 months and never had an issue with it. Even when I pulled the motor out I had a look at the turbo and it seemed happy.

But, if you cant afford to fix it if it does break, then run 12psi. Be smart about it :D

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted
Kyebidz - a turbo beanie is the worst idea one could suggest, right up there with a Bee-r limiter!

Tthe hotter the housing and turbine wheel - the more prone to failure the exhaust wheel is going to be.

the sarcasm of his post must of been lost on you!

lachlanw Veteran

lachlanw

Posted
Posted

we got a neo turbo on a 20det . been thrashing it for ages on 14 psi . have had it glowing red after a boost round the hills . it seems to love it . it doesnt glow anywhere near as good as the 20 turbo used to . yeah not much piont in runnin any more on a stock ecu . but yeah your already pushin more yeah . good shit man . need more threads with "do ers " and not the hot air brigade

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Depends how restrictive the head is?

That was kinda my point.

On the same motor, with the same head, with the same turbo and no change in restriction, then of course 17psi is going to require a faster shaft speed. If you were to port the head without touching the turbo, then you would see the same power with lower boost figures (it's about airflow, not "boost").

Boost is ONLY a measure of head restriction, not a measure of shaft speed. Comparing boost levels on different motors with different heads is pointless when trying to determine shaft speed.

Well generally people say the RB20 head is about 30% down on the 25 head.

12 + 3.6 = 15.6... 1.5-2.5psi off the target still

So i say higher shaft speed.

Brockas Proficient

Brockas

Posted
Posted
Well generally people say the RB20 head is about 30% down on the 25 head.

12 + 3.6 = 15.6... 1.5-2.5psi off the target still

So i say higher shaft speed.

So you agree that this statement:

i reckon you can run more boost through a 33 turbs on a rb20 compared to a 25 zebra so im gonna have to disagree with you there buddy :P

is absolute rubbish?

For a while there it seemed like you were trying to tell us that 15psi on an RB20 means higher shaft speed than 15psi on an RB25....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      So now doing the change and first time dealing with rb so little nervous giving engine power and potential for screwing it up When you align all marks and then remove crank bolt, timing move little I assume you can put the bolt back in once you have removed the pully to get timing to where you want?   here is pic of my both intake and exchust cam aligned, depending on angle you look they seem to be either aligned or a half tooth or so out. Any thoughts? Should you angle your face and look at each mark that way as if looking straight rather than from above as it can be misleading   <a href="https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HfWrGR9b/IMG-4447.jpg" alt="IMG-4447" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JWBqWwr1/IMG-4445.jpg" alt="IMG-4445" border="0"></a>   https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q
    • sunsetR33
      braided lines for the turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      You're probably right about that one. Thanks for your suggestions, I hope I don't need a new 3rd brake light. Although wiring issues might arguably be worse. Right now I'm in the midst of a turbo removal because of my oil leak, other problems are going to have to wait for now.
×
×
  • Create New...