Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, just thought I'd share some pretty shitty news I've come across.

Went to the DPI today, and got some info for the legal stuff regarding my turbo x-trail project.

Its all pretty simple, i don't even need MOD plates or engineer's certificate.

What i need to do is fill in an modification application form and send it in, then ill get a response as to what i need to do next.

I might need to do whats called an IM240 test, which is a VERY expensive emissions test involving several gas levels being monitored for a period of 4 minutes (hence 240 seconds). These cost ~$700, and if the car fails, the next test will cost, brace yourself, almost $3000! The joke of this is that there is only one company in the entire state that does these tests. They have a monopoly on the emissions testing 'market'. Hoping I won't have to do one of these, if i do, then ill just take the gamble and drive with it not fully legal, cos 700 dollars per test is an effing joke, its the biggest money making scheme I've ever seen. After that, it just needs to pass an inspection over the pits, which should be fairly easy.

I don't condone driving an un-road worthy car at all, this will be my choice, and only under absolute worst case senario and untill I can find a way around the test, or spend some more coin for the stupid test. The problem with the IM240 test, is that was introduced back in April, and to date, not one test has been carried out in Western Australia. :dunno:

From what i hear from the guys at hyperdrive motorsport (im using them to tune my EMS when its done), 3 cars were tested independently over east, by a car dealership. I might add here that in NSW, this test is free, funded by the RTA! (correct me if im wrong). The cars were a MY09 Subaru Impreza WRX, a 3.6L V6 base model VE commodore, and a VE SS (6.0l V8) ute. ONLY THE V6 COMMODORE PASSED THE TEST. You read correctly. The WRX and the SS failed due to to higher carbon emissions on start-up (before the cat-converted had even bin given a chance to warm up to correct operating temperature). If a stock car cannot pass this test, what hope does even a slightly modified car have? According to the DPI's website, 80% of the cars on the road are (as of April 09) REQUIRED to undergo an IM240 test to still be legal. This includes any car with any exhaust mods at all, turbo or supercharger, LPG or CNG conversion, imported from another country or that was manufactured before 1989. This means that every LPG conversion must undergo this $700 (or potentially $3700 if it fails the first time) test in order to be legal. Thats more than the conversion itself, and its certainly not covered by the gov'mnt grant. I thought the government was trying to promote LPG conversions???

Read about the test here: http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/mediafiles/lic_ib...ht_vehicles.pdf

and some discussion on the LS1 (commodore V8) forum here: http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=121352

This test marks the end of modified cars in WA.

Yeh I'm seriously considering the future of this turbo project now.

That said, its not exactly that easy to just undo what I've done already (fuel pump, intercooler, exhaust, manifold and dump pipe that's bin custom made, BOV, injectors, the turbo itself and even the catch can!). I'm not going to be able to sell all of this stuff (especially with the new laws) and thanks to our lovely, helpful government, a hard working, law abiding, tax-paying student is thousands out of pocket.

To say I'm annoyed would be an understatement.

I'm not sure about the status of cars that are already modified pre-April, but from what it sounds like, it gives police the power to whack a $700 or $3700 test on ANYONE, even if the car is stock and/or they just suspect an exhaust modification has bin carried out.

The only bit if hope us WA'ers have, is that the test is under review in 12 months time (next April), all it takes is a smart lawyer from a car company to pipe up, and plead that the test undermines their company's ability to sell cars, that are considered "legal".

What do you guys think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279393-new-wa-emmissions-laws/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 149
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Simple, don't go through the pits to do your mods, just do them, then hope you don't get yellow stickered :iluvff:

The one of more impact is

In addition, the following applications require an IM240 test from 1 December 2009:

o Newly imported vehicles manufactured prior to 1989.

Which is a way to stop grey imports under the 15year rules etc.

With only one place in WA that can do it, the queue will be a couple miles long :D

Kostecki's?

Heard some bad rumours about this f**ked up rule already.

Its funny how the engines they build always pass with flying colours.

you guessed them :iluvff:

and conveniently, they 'new' 'ADR compliant' cat converters.

fkn government.

you guessed them :iluvff:

and conveniently, they 'new' 'ADR compliant' cat converters.

fkn government.

Did you know that if a test fails, and you move the sensor to a different location in the exhaust, it will get a different reading. Do this enough times and sooner or later it will give a "PASS"

Just saying. hahaha

Simple, don't go through the pits to do your mods, just do them, then hope you don't get yellow stickered :iluvff:

And if you do get labelled, return to stock, return to the pits, do what you can to pass, bolt your mods back on.

Screw them. If they want to be stupid about it, there's always a solution.

A cow fart cause more greenhouse gases than the time it takes for a vehicle's cat to warm up.

Don't they realise that there are normal people out there with average sized wallets?

Somehow, I think this venture may fail if 2 in 3 cars failed.

They want all the modified cars to fail these tests so it forces us to go back to stock.

Easiest thing to do is hide your power fc's if you have them, and when they can't find any evidence of an aftermarket computer system/ecu/boost controller you say to them, "But still no banana!" :iluvff:

so anyone with a aftermarket exhaust (most of us skyline drivers at least have a cat back) may need to do this test?!

in short, yes.

it gives the police the power to make you have an IM240 if they suspect you have any emission's affecting mods (cams, bigger turbos, exhausts, cat deletes etc)

and if you get a yellow sticker, and you go over the pits with any of the above mods, youl need am IM240.

so anyone with a aftermarket exhaust (most of us skyline drivers at least have a cat back) may need to do this test?!

If you get a yellow sticker, then yes.

Syfon, they dont need an obvious reason to yellow sticker your car.

All they need is a suspicion that something is not right and they can defect the vehicle to basically send you to the pits for a 'check'.

Im not against the rules as such, but i think they need to open the approved testing to more than 1 company who is a know 'over charger'. We need choice and should be able to find some one who we are comfortable to play with our cars.

If i had a v8 i would consider Kostecki's....but for a Skyline, Silvia etc? Nope.

The cars were a MY09 Subaru Impreza WRX, a 3.6L V6 base model VE commodore, and a VE SS (6.0l V8) ute. ONLY THE V6 COMMODORE PASSED THE TEST. You read correctly.
Nope, this is exactly what they want.

Were the WRX and SS tested, stock or modified?

The link to the DPI test won't open for me here.

If you get a yellow sticker, then yes.

Syfon, they dont need an obvious reason to yellow sticker your car.

All they need is a suspicion that something is not right and they can defect the vehicle to basically send you to the pits for a 'check'.

Im not against the rules as such, but i think they need to open the approved testing to more than 1 company who is a know 'over charger'. We need choice and should be able to find some one who we are comfortable to play with our cars.

If i had a v8 i would consider Kostecki's....but for a Skyline, Silvia etc? Nope.

EXACTLY!

the rule's not the problem, the single company that charges $700 for the first, then $3000 for every one after that, is the f**king joke/problem.

EXACTLY!

the rule's not the problem, the single company that charges $700 for the first, then $3000 for every one after that, is the f**king joke/problem.

But if you fit a Kostecki ADR Approved Cat, your guaranteed to pass.

Thats nice isnt it? :iluvff:

Oh wow this is bs.

Mainly the prices...

Have to admit, i don't believe in global warming the way it is advertised on the news etc.

So this new rule...This is the first i've heard about it. Something like this shouldnt be implemented without people knowing about it... or am i just naive?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...