Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 prices in QLD

predator

By predator,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

Nizman Mentor

Nizman

Posted
Posted

"thats like buying a VR vs a VT" not at all...VR & VT have a completly different floorplan.

"Thats a good $14000. " yeah if you were buying all the parts new, you got em 2nd hand so make that $4000.

"Why pay $20 for a stocky" so you know it hasn't been flogged maybe? Anyway you can get a stocky in QLD for 15K and a series 2 R33 for 20K

So no offence but I wouldn't have paid more than twenty for yours either regardless of how many scratches its got.

SmoothLine Grand Master

SmoothLine

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by qikr33

no mate anyone who pays 15 knows a deal when they see it.My mate from skyline imports actually found this one for me.The bloke that was sellling it had marital probs and was desperate.

Fair enough.

Gordo, keep your car and we can become the dynamic skyline duo :bahaha:

Anquetil Mentor

Anquetil

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Boost King

I paid more than that for my R33, but remember R33 went from 1993 to 1997 and thats like buying a VR vs a VT, lots of models and lots of years!  My 96 has additional features std over the earlier 33 including Variable Cam Timing, Dual Airbags, ABS, larger spoiler, different front end styling, not to mention allot less Km's.

Yeah that was abit vague, I meant like 93/94 models.

Boost King Contributor

Boost King

Posted
Posted

Cool, with the VR-VT, let me back it up to VS S2 then, that will be valid enough.

If you can find all that stuff for $4k, hook me up because thats damm cheap, maybe 7 or 8k 2nd hand but 4k, thats a good deal dude.

Also now, cost of complying a car has virtually doubled now since this new system in May 03. So that should be pushing the value of all our skylines up, especially the modified ones.

Also, that price I said included compliance and registration, drive away.

Are the prices your talking about for uncomplied cars?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Watermouse
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Watermouse · Posted

      Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...