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By fletch rb30 · Posted
In a previous incarnation I ran it round the back and into the thermostat inlet teed into the heater return. It worked fine, but when I turned it off, I could hear it boiling and slugging etc. I figured it would be good to try and get it towards the radiator and let convection cool it until it was the dame temp as everything else. I thought rb26 had a nipple on the top hose fitting where both the turbo water returns went. I have seen people delete that with a rd28 outlet and run the turbo outlet straight to the radiator top tank. -
By Prof_Finesser · Posted
I talked to WS they said I could either have a charge cable connecting the alt to the starter or the alt to the fuse box which I have it. The two wires shown are one from the alt to starter and the other is the ring terminal from the harness that says starter power. Theres no power wire shown. I asked him he said there should be in power wire from the battery, the ring terminal from the harness, and then finally the signal spade connector I have it set up like that currently. I'm just gonna test all the stuff Duncan said and will get back to yall. -
According to the photo, the start signal wire would not have a ring terminal on it. It would have a normal push on spade socket (the spade itself is the terminal on the starter solenoid). Anything with a ring terminal would want to be the main, big, fat wire that actually carries the many many amps that run the starter motor itself. In that photo, WS appear to be providing a pair of fat wires to the starter, one from the alternator output and one from the battery - effectively making the connection between the alternator and the battery at the starter. I dunno. Maybe this is the way it is done with vehicles with the battery in the boot (because the batter wire comes from the rear, under the car. But I think on front battery cars the connection is typically direct from alt to battery. The battery to starter connection is also direct, so the common point is at the battery, not the starter. Either will work, but the loom really should reflect the chassis as well as the engine. -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
@fletch rb30 looks good! If my motor wasn't in the car, or the timing belt was off, I would be redoing the hardline to run it in front of the motor like what you've done. Another idea is to return it back to the thermostats housing, similar to how it's done on the RB26, could that be an option? -
With ECUTek you purchase a "key" to load and modify the tune, once you buy the "key", cable and software you can play around all you want, the tune and ability to change it is locked to that cars ECU's with the "key" though My 86 ran ECUTek, Pulse Racing could run it up, log and play with the tune to get it on point, same thing is currently going on with the MX5 at MX5 Mania as we speak
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