Garrett Gt35r

[Tomei_Powered]

Finally an end to my GT35R and i dont know if i am able to source the parts needed to rebuild my turbo or just purchase a new turbo.

Would appreciate if someone could point me to a place to source for the parts highlighted in yellow.

Cheers!

[Pattygtst]

mtq or any australian garrett suplier would be able to help

[Adriano]

I would imagine that you will need to buy th ewhole catridge.

[discopotato03]

That wheel's had a big rub and it would be good to find out why .

GCG used to convert GT3582R's into GT3584R's (T04Z comp wheel) so you could try them .

You really need to get someone to asses what the cartridge is like inside and see if the housing/s the wheel/s rubbed on are fixable . Sometimes it's better to replace the complete cartridge and wheels because all of the center section and wheels are brand new .

Its more than just the bearing section and wheels that get "used up" . If the turbine end piston ring has cut it's way into the butt of the bearing housing it can be the sign of a used up cartridge .

Get it checked out , cheers A .

[juggernaut1]

Since your in Perth...ring Grant at Per4manz turbocharges who specialise in turbo rebuilds and determine whether it is rebuildable. Also ask about having the bearings crygenically treated - he claims to have never had a turbo fail after having this done.

http://www.per4manz.com/index.htm

[hypergear]

Assume your turbo is in sleeve bearing with turbine shaft and bearing housing in good condition.

Edited July 17, 2009 by R31Nismoid

[R31Nismoid]

A GT35r wont be a sleeve bearing.

It'll be a ball bearing cartridge.

Either way though - you still need to have someone professionally balance it and so on.

Id be interested to see if they sell it apart - my understanding is you'll need the entire cartridge @ around $1000 before you even start

[hypergear]

Well the starter posted a sleeve bearing diagram. I assume he knows what he's on about, I've Seen Garrett GT35 in sleeve bearings, and built few our selves.

added: 18/07/09:

Ash you tight ass. Just paid subscription again. lol

Any way, For a sleeve bearing overhaul with parts listed in diagram is $670 including a Garrett Comp wheel. assume your housings and turbine wheel is ok. The turbine shaft is going to be expansive if its no good. You can send your complete turbo for a amylase report to find out what’s required for overhaul. Might not be as bad as you thought.

Edited July 18, 2009 by hypergear

[R31Nismoid]

Edited your posts - you know the rules.

[discopotato03]

No that ones a ball bearing GT turbo , the give away is the lock nut and the remnants of the hex on the nose of the wheel . Plain bearing turbos with that 82mm GT40 compressor have a threaded bore wheel .

Also you can see the difference in colour where the back-plates adapter ring (aluminium) surrounds the center housing (iron) .

To the original poster , now that the compressor housing is off can you feel any binding when you turn the rotating assembly ?

Also does the compressor turn true as on center or does it orbit indicating a bent shaft ?

Can you see any obvious damage to the turbine blades ?

I hate to say it but often when these small frame BB cartridges have a lose like that the outlook can be bleak .

They are designed to be lightweight/low inertia for high speed use and don't have the strength to handle out of balance forces . They normally run small clearances on the housings for higher wheel efficiencies .

Also the GT3582R is the largest in the GT25 or small frame ball bearing family . It has the largest diameter (and heaviest) turbine and compressor wheels meaning that if anything runs out of alignment and or balance the shaft wants to flex at its smallest diameter - which is the journal the compressor wheel fits over .

Actually from memory the BB GT35R's turbine shaft is slightly larger in that area than the rest off the GT25BB center section turbos (maybe GT3082R as well) possibly because Garrett realised that the 82mm dia wheel was likely to bend it .

Cheers A .

[Tomei_Powered]

I think could be debris or fragments of dirt might have caused the turbo to fail..

We were street tuning it @ 1.8bar and the power was so incredible and i was happy to run it on dyno the next day.

Later on, we felt strange as the power doest feel like how it was performing before and we heard whinning sound from the turbo and we were right. The turbo is f**ked!

It has a spun bearing. It turns okay but wobbles when moved left right on the compressor fin. The comp. fin scraped the front housing same goes with the rear fin. The rear might somehow perform like a GT30 now.. =)

Ive asked around and i think the best option now is to replace a new turbo instead of getting it fix. The catridge alone cost around 1.2k!! I was thinking to go for something larger like the GT3788R instead of the GT35.

Anyone tried running a GT3788R?

[hypergear]

It looks like failed bearings, specially if you have get a lot of left to right play. For a foreign object damage you are more then likely to have chips on the upper fin rather then the side. If this is a sleeve bearing setup, you might want to check your oil supply.

[discopotato03]

The GT37R ball bearing series are aftermarket diesel upgrade turbos from Garrett for things Like Dodge Cummins Ram and Ford or GMC trucks .

They are the large BB frame size like T04Z/GT4088R/GT42R/T51R etc .

They use Garrett's GT37 HP (high pressure ratio) turbine rather than the higher material spec UHP (ultra high pressure ratio) GT turbines for petrol engine apps .

Geoff Raicer (Full Race Geoff) once mentioned that the diesel spec GT3788R would not be a brilliant petrol engine turbo mainly because it has too much compressor for a GT37 turbine . The "88R" compressor is the same wheel Garrett uses in the GT4088R and that most definitely is a petrol spec turbocharger .

Some people see the T04Z (ball bearing T04R) as being a step up from the GT3582R and less expensive too .

Being a T04 series turbo there is a wide range of single and twin scroll turbine housings for these in T3 and T4 flange .

They use the same T04S comp housing as a GT3582R though profiled to suit the R rather than the GT40 compressor .

What sort of power output are you chasing ?

Cheers A .

[Parag0n]

As posted above I'd say go for the Garret TO4Z, great ball bearing turbo, if you choose the 1.00 rear housing split pulse you will be crunching huge numbers at 1.8 bar, which is what you said you had the GT35R running at.

You can pick them up brand new for around $2000-$2200

[juggernaut1]

I think could be debris or fragments of dirt might have caused the turbo to fail..

We were street tuning it @ 1.8bar and the power was so incredible and i was happy to run it on dyno the next day.

Later on, we felt strange as the power doest feel like how it was performing before and we heard whinning sound from the turbo and we were right. The turbo is f**ked!

It has a spun bearing. It turns okay but wobbles when moved left right on the compressor fin. The comp. fin scraped the front housing same goes with the rear fin. The rear might somehow perform like a GT30 now.. =)

Ive asked around and i think the best option now is to replace a new turbo instead of getting it fix. The catridge alone cost around 1.2k!! I was thinking to go for something larger like the GT3788R instead of the GT35.

Anyone tried running a GT3788R?

The cartridges are rebuildable - I got quoted approx $700 including cryogenically treated bearings from Grant at Per4manz turbochargers for a rebuild of my 3071 which the bearings failed after 6000 klms on the street. You would need a comp wheel on top of that price tho'. Grant mentioned heat is the cause of 90% of bearing failures in the Garretts - hence the reason for the cryo treatment. However, in my case I suspect compressor surge has killed my turbo.

Grant mentioned the T04Z has a much better bearing pack than the 30 series of turbos - so should last longer.

[Tomei_Powered]

damn i hate power!

caused so much trouble, time and money!

well.. i admit i am still an addict.

Im chasing somewhere reasonable between the 450-500mark whp.

Most prob i'll stick to another GT35R and i like it most. Havent tried others but i am sure to hope to blow the turbo this time instead of some sheT stucked that caused the turbo to fail..how sad. I havent even tried putting it on dyno and it failed! URRGGHH!

I will have the dyno posted somewhere once everything is running "fine"again.

[Tomei_Powered]

anyway tanks for your posts ppl.

thanks to MR A for your write up as well on the GT37.

[discopotato03]

No worries , BTW IMO the T04Z (T04R BB) isn't the most high tech thing around but it does have a beefier center section inc a larger diameter turbine shaft . Also when first available they were sort of inexpensive (if that's possible) for what they are . I suspect they had a Garrett promo price .

If the ask is 500 Hp then conservatively speaking the compressor section needs to be able to handle 50 lbs of air . I suppose if you mean at the wheels you have to allow for any losses in the system . I'd have to look but I think I remember Garrett rating the GT3582R at around 650 Hp so it sounds about right .

An important thing to remember is that these power estimates are based on airflow capacity only , you have to get the exhaust gas through the other end with minimal restriction because the getting out the bad becomes the limiting factor - that and detonation I'd think .

To get all 650 out of that turbo I reckon you need to think seriously about turbine housing size and your best chance will be with the largest or 1.06 A/R one .

Sure the turbo will come on song a bit higher up the engines rev range but you were never going to make huge torque or power in the lower mid range anyway .

IMO things like head work/mild cams/slightly higher CR's/better manifolds/low restriction IC's are the way to go about recovering some torque down low on engines with largish turbos .

What engine are you running and in what state of tune ?

Cheers A .

[Tomei_Powered]

My engine spec is listed bottom of my posts.

Im worried if i were to change to a 1.06 A/R it will caused a terrible lag.

Somehow i am pretty comfortable with my .86 A/R which comes in @ +/-3,700rpm without tweaking the cams. Probably i will try using a larger rear housing and tweak the cams and see what happens. I was hoping if i could salvage back my previous .86 housing cos i have just ceramic coated it. DAMN!

I have read somewhere a GT35R shares a similiar center section with a S15 turbo. Well it doesnt matter now.

Just hope everything is going to run normal again.

[putraged]

hi, i need to revive the thread.

i found a broken gt35r with 0.63 rear housing. the seller stated it needs a new rear wheel, and the other parts is still good.

my question: how much is the rear wheel parts only, is it a DIY job to change the rear wheel or u need to bring it to a turbo repairer such as gcg or else.

cheers.

Edited September 12, 2009 by putraged