Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yesterday i got a bit done i got the bottom end built ill be starting on the seam welding and the cage and cutting the boot out and the parchel shelf and makeing new ones when i finish building my shed and can put my hoist in and put a over head crane in

post-41983-1249778263_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1249778476_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1249778582_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Since you are cutting the floor out the boot are you putting in a fuel cell or keeping the standard tank?

Keep up the good work.

ill be running a 40 ltr foam filled cell at this stage was going to go a 20 ltr one but i would only get 10 minutes out of my car before i would need refueling

a small up date progress is slow as im waiting to finish my shed before i start on cage and seam welding just ordering part as i can aford them

today my fuel pressure reg bov and injectors and fuel rail turned up today and the head is finally stripped ready for porting

post-41983-1250680663_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1250680814_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1250680983_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1250681114_thumb.jpg

any light weight 18 by 10 by +15 ofset rims i can kind at a cheap price i was going to run the standard rims with 350 rotors but i want to run 285 semis this time with 365 rotors as i got a good deal on the rotors

  • 1 month later...

not much progress lately as ive hert my back and will be off work for 8 weeks un paid

all ive done is make up a new power steering bracket so i can machine of the front pulley and machine down the second pulley on the balancer and run a crank angle sensor not cam angle sensor

and ive worked out the static compression and ported the head i was going to go futher with the porting but didnt no how far i could push it

the short motor is now asembled here is some pics

and the manifold is complete so i can start putting my black car back together

post-41983-1253658083_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1253658236_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1253658392_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1253658510_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1253658808_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1253658931_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
×
×
  • Create New...