Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr Bumper To Gtst


Recommended Posts

pretty sure its too wide for just a bolt straight on thing, due to the larger guards of the gtr, but it might be able to be modified to fit, but you'd be best off just getting one thats made for a gtst.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The guards are the issue.

I have a VeilSide GT-R front bar on mine and I was able to coax it into place with a heat gun and a little gentle persuasion. You will need a warm day to do the job because the heat needs to be uniform over the bar when you bend it.

Needless to say the paint didn't appreciate the effort and it wrinkled slightly.

If you were going to start with a bar that needed painting, it can be done.

The other option is to buy a bar that has the GT-R look but the Gts-25t fit. Here's a link to Carmate that have them: CARMATE.

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ah ok..but it will fit like mount up..??

the fender are different but towards the body not front..or mayb coz of the headlamps..

i heard gtr front bumpers wont fit series2 coz of the headlights are different, but fits on series1 33

or was this just a load of crap....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

basically gtr bar wont fit gtst. like every1 said the guard issue and yes headlight issue too. gtr headlights are diff from both gtst series and wont leave an even gap by doing this.

go on ebay, search seller mybodykits, gtr bar is like 280 and all u need is paint and it will bolt up. i bought one a while back and fit mad. only thing like all aftermarket bars, u will have to place 2 packers under the bar at the headight corners to close the gap aftermarket bars leave or buy an aftermarket reo bar too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this bar doesnt have the in-built grill that most fakes/copy have..

and thats spoze is the problem..esp on series 1..u get a gap.

the bumper iam getting is a fake aswel..but yea..its an odd one..so yea im just try to suss it out 4 now.

the only thing thats got me puzzled is wer the bumper bolts onto the corner of the front fenders..

ive seen this doin before on sereis2..and one guy made it..

i'll try find a pic.. and show u wat i mean.. his bar aswel didnt have the in-built grill..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

does anyone know if series 1 or 2 R33's have different reo bar? or evan r33 gtr's?

Series 1 and 2 are different and the gtr is different again. No parity at all between the 3.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
×
×
  • Create New...