Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I just find out my 34gtr's water temp was up to 95-98 degree? is that normal?? but when i drive on highway there is only 77-80 degree.

thats really a big different between more air flow and less air flow.

I checked my fans its working good.

anyone can point out is this normal??

thanks!!

depends on where you fit the water temp sensor and atmosphere temperature But seems pretty normal to me.

98 degrees seems normal??

How did you test you fan, with mine it spins but i can stop it and even spin it backwards when its up to temp, this means its screwed, could be your problem as well.

Oopps Didn't notice its a GTR 34. if your stock Gauge displaying 98 degrees and on a slow rising mode then might want to check for water leaks or thermo related bits

Hi there is no leaking, the highest temp is 98degress, it will go down to 94 and rising up again.

but if the car runing the water temp will go down very quick. about 77-84 degree if drive normally.

i can see the highest water temp on the center screen is show up 98 degree in heavy traffic, but the standard water temp gauge only a little bit more than halfway.

and if the traffic flow is good or on the highway, the temp is about 80 degree, on standard water temp gauge is about halfway.

Edited by Nosure

No expert on R34 GTR's, but any car that registers above half on the stock gauge isnt a good thing?

Maybe your thermostat is stuck slightly closed, so when your in traffic its not quite opening enough for full flow.

Id try that before doing anything too drastic. Flush the system, new thermo, some good coolant..

98 is to hot for just normal driving on a daily basis for any RB. I don't know what hypergear is talking about. Did you try bleeding it to see if there is any air in the system?

Ive never seen above 90degrees, mostly 82.

only time i saw 89-90 was on a 40degree day during summer so i drove with my heater on full blast; took the temp down to 86-87 quite quick although heater + 40degree heat was unbearable lolz.

i agree with everyone, coolant flush for air pockets and new thermostat

the 98 degree only happend once on havey traffic. the car only run 300m in one hour.

in normal drive condition the water temp only about 75-85 degree. even i drive very hard the water temp still not go over 85.

and the fans is also OK. so I guess its normal if the engine is on and stay there for one hour.

the water temp only go high when the car doesn't move for a while.

98deg water temp is ok, it is a little high (check basics) but it wont kill the engine etc

just drive it normally once you are able to and the radiator has some airflow

once you drive it normally with airlfow, the temp should drop pretty reasonably to mid 80s

the ECU has correction based on water temp and will start taking out timing above certain levels

if water temp is near 110deg i would be worried - the stock guage cluster should be near 3/4 at this level

98deg water temp is ok, it is a little high (check basics) but it wont kill the engine etc

just drive it normally once you are able to and the radiator has some airflow

once you drive it normally with airlfow, the temp should drop pretty reasonably to mid 80s

the ECU has correction based on water temp and will start taking out timing above certain levels

if water temp is near 110deg i would be worried - the stock guage cluster should be near 3/4 at this level

thanks mate, so when the water temp up to 110, that mean problem?? or it will break some think?

You can warp the head for one. 98 isn't going to break anything, but it's higher than it should be. Mine gets a bit to hot one hot sunny days with the a/c going after I've been creeping along in traffic for too long. I turn the a/c off when it gets over 100 to let it cool back down. usually around 110-115 your coolant will start to boil.

Your coolant temp is very high for an RB engine, in heavy traffic I rarely go above 90c (13B-REW).

I'd have your lines bled and replaced with new coolant. But as stated in the thread your engine won't get damaged sub 120c, but you shouldn't be around that temperature at all even under extreme engine stress.

get the radiator professionally cleaned and a new top tank. should be 230-300

they take it out, take it apart, clean out all the crap etc. good as new. a new OEM or nismo thermostat is a good idea at the same time. The generic ones are very flimsy in comparision. nissan is ~50$ trade price. 82deg where the nismo is 72deg

Edited by RB_Ryan

You can easily mod the engine fan to pull more air and not have it locked on. They lose some of the silicon oil thats inside the fan hub over time. You can drill holes and refill them. Mine was doing the same thing although i would check the basics first and change the thermostat if it has been a while.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...