Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if i had money to burn, it would be HKS GT2835 Pro S in a heart beat. Amazing turbo. But my highflow was $800. I would have got about 10rwkw more perhaps (maybe 10-15) and maybe 100rpm earlier on boost (with the HKS) and just couldn't justify the extra $$ despite how great they are. Don't know if those things hold boost to redline either...

And Gary, i got my car/highflow done on E85, here were the results...

e85_1.jpg

same boost curve, won't hold to redline unfortunately

e85_2.jpg

I have just been loving the car all over again. Very street friendly, plenty of torque (562nm peak) and with the combo of the SK Group Buy suspension kit, it really feels like a "package" now. Hard to explain, but the car feels more content with the new power/torque in combo with the suspension. TCS off and it won't wheel spin either (unless a greasy road). It seems that 280-290rwkw is the sweet spot, well from the power stages i've gone through with my car anyway.

Only thing i would do now is try and get the boost curve looking a little nicer and that means larger rear housing (already OP6) so if you do play with modifying an OP6 Adrian, i would be very keen to know how it all goes :ermm:

Gary, what do the GCG boost curves look like?

(Car ran a 288rwkw at Status the other day, went back in for a little check-up. Count 'em... 3 extra rear wheel killer wasps :down:)

I have to find a little more out about the extrude hone process and if it's likely to damage the gates hole or the flap and hinge pin assembly .

It may be easier to clean up the volute passage by more conventional methods - just depends how far it's possible to get at everything inside a bare OP6 housing .

I also want to explore slightly larger waste gate flat valves , it's probably going to mean using a physically larger actuator assembly so that the spring and diaphragm work accurately and don't get overwhelmed by the greater valve pressure area .

All compromises but hey necessity is the mother of invention and I like a challenge .

I will speak to Brett about alternative turbines and maybe compressors but that's difficult because he understandably doesn't want to give too much away and I can't blame him . Developing these things costs money and time .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

If you're looking to ream out the turbine, it's effectively increasing the cross sectional area - ie. a bigger A/R.

Isn't the AVO style housing advertised at ~ 0.7A/R, while the OP6 is supposedly ~ 0.6?

Worth considering if having a bolt-on is a must.

  Dale FZ1 said:
If you're looking to ream out the turbine, it's effectively increasing the cross sectional area - ie. a bigger A/R.

Isn't the AVO style housing advertised at ~ 0.7A/R, while the OP6 is supposedly ~ 0.6?

Worth considering if having a bolt-on is a must.

Yes, bingo

My AVO rear housing is .73, with garrett GT3076 BB internal and front ported/flowed stock comp housing, should be good for 285kw (manual)

http://www.avoturboworld.com/pdf/gts_exhaust_housing.pdf

That did occur to me but I remember seeing one (or one like it as a few mobs inc GCG sell that kind of thing) a few years back and for some reason wasn't overly impressed .

I think the passage inside the thing looked strange through the waste gates hole for some reason .

I been searching for more pics of those housings but all I've seen is AVO pics .

I should be in GCGs area in the near future so I'll try and compare my VG30 0P6 housing with their alternative one .

Cheers A .

  zebra said:
700 bucks for a housing is a bit rich,

GCG wanted 2600 for a full bolt on gt3076 kit, inc lines, spacer and dump

yeah but ATS adelaide turbo services sell the bolt on GT3076 kit with lines and AVO rear housing for $2500

bolt on

big rear .73 housing $700

ported front comp housing to 60-trim $200

garrett bb gt3076 chra $1300

oil lines and water lines, etc $300

awesomeness Guaranteed

* tangles seal of approval.

250rwkw @1.2bar maxxing stock injectors (got 480's to drop in soon)

yeah when i spoke to GCG i asked whether they used the machined RB/VG housing or a garrett one and they said they wernt doing the RB/VG housing anymore because of boost creep issues etc and that they now use the genuine garrett I/W housings

  discopotato03 said:
That did occur to me but I remember seeing one (or one like it as a few mobs inc GCG sell that kind of thing) a few years back and for some reason wasn't overly impressed .

I think the passage inside the thing looked strange through the waste gates hole for some reason .

I been searching for more pics of those housings but all I've seen is AVO pics .

I should be in GCGs area in the near future so I'll try and compare my VG30 0P6 housing with their alternative one .

If they stock an AVO type housing, be sure to take a couple of side-by-side pics with the OP6 just to show what differences exist (if any).

Tangles did you get the cartridge number off that turbo ?

I can see that they've made a new snout tube for the comp cover - it's longer than std and that would be an easy way to get around the shorter Garrett BB cartridge between the Hitachi style housings .

I stuffed up slightly at GCG today and forgot to ask about comparing the replacement housing with my VG30's 0P6 one .

They're just removing mines T housing so I can get a better idea of if there's any point in trying to improve it .

In my dark bastard hybrid days many years ago I had a loose 0P6 housing and it did look like it had a fair bit wider volute passage than the 20's and 25's .

I really need to see the aftermarket one to see if it's larger internally again because if it is and the internals are well formed then it may have its uses . One area that it looks better in the pics is where the waste gates valve seats , possibly a bit more scope to use an appropriate sized valve for the Hi Flows increased exhaust gas throughput .

I don't suppose anyone's used the AVO T housing with a 2835/cropped GT3071R type cartridge ?

Cheers A .

  • 1 month later...

You can see my boost chart for a stock R33 turbo highflowed by GCG here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...html&st=320 (post 333)

You will see boost build is much quicker - 10psi by 2750 and 16 psi by 3,500. Some of this could be due to the ball bearings of the GCG and some due to my Jaycar IEBC (which was roughly set by my tuner who hadn't seen one before - I can get a dead straight line at 16 or 17 psi).

  SS8_Gohan said:
not sure if it's much interest to you, but here's my boost curve for my OP6 high flow - keen to seen what a GCG one would look like... (this is a hypergear)

IMG_0309-1.jpg

i fixed this howling/leaking noise i had around the FMIC, but unfortunately it didn't change the boost curve :) But she sounds great now and there's plenty of mumbo on tap.

and this is the pump fuel graph

IMG_0311-1.jpg

the 2 lines are pre and post Z32 afm

thinking of maybe going a bigger rear housing to get a flat boost curve, and then get an adjustable exhaust side cam gear to make up for the loss of response. But unless they cancel each other out, i probably won't change.

Well the R34 turbine housings are bigger so naturally they would be touch bit laggier. below is your dyno sheet, Compare it you can see the OP6 high flow have made more power then yours through all rev ranges.

post-31034-1252715681_thumb.jpg

Edited by kwickr33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either.   That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much.   It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak.   Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.
    • 15000? ish? Something like that anyway. It wasn;t so much a wear as a tear that then spread. Might have lasted a lot longer if not bothered by just one incident, whatever it was. I took a punt. They are really comfortable and do a good job of holding. My daughter HATED it when I first put them in, and probably still does now. She has sensory issues and hates the way they are all up your business. I'm 197cm and 95kg. Not fat or particularly wide, and the XL size seat is the rigth fit. If I was any fatter it would start to get too snug. Any skinnier and you'd possibly want the smaller width.
    • Mrs rs focus came factory with recaro cs  sportsters in it and they a pain in the ass to get in and out of with the really high bolsters, once you were in them they were one of the most comfortable seats I have ever sat in
    • The NA 2.5 has very little torque. You won't feel much. Those trannies are also a million years old now and it could well be f**ked. First generation electronically controlled autos will often refuse to kick down, ete, etc, depending on what's wrong with them.
    • Yes, but no but yes but no. Those "it's fine up to 500HP" rules and everything else like it were all determined back when the cars were 10 years old. As they are now 30 years old.....what do you reckon the chances of something shitting the bed are? I'd say they are much higher now than they used to be. You might be lucky. You might be unlucky. Spin the wheel and find out. Yeah, nah. It's actually exactly the opposite. Making boost early and having heaps of torque able to be generated right in the middle of the rev range will do more to damage an engine than having to rev it high to make the power. Think about the load on the conrods, bearings, etc, to make 400HP at 4000 rpm, vs 400 HP at 6500 rpm. So someone has already "let the Nissan out" which is how we describe the increased chance of a fiddled with engine to have had something done wrongly. Many more engines that have been opened die than stock ones do - even if you into consideration how they are treated wrt power levels and the like. Again, not saying that yours will definitely have been put back together by a moron. But the possibility does exist. It's still a lottery. Spin the wheel. What weakspots?
×
×
  • Create New...