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Stuffed 4th Piston

puke22

By puke22,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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puke22 Contributor

puke22

Posted
Posted

I brought a R32 GTR a while ago and its seemed to be going slower then when i got it

so i booked an appointment to have it serviced and check over.

While checking the engine over the 4th piston was found to have low compression and high leakage.

This is what i was given:

Compression: CYL (1) 150, CYL (2) 150, CYL (3) 155, CYL (4) 100, CYL (5) 160, CYL 6 155.

Leakage test: CYL (4) 70% Past rings.

I've been told i need a rebuild or engine replace... id much prefer to work with what i have already.

I purchased the car how it is now, and was given dyno sheets for 320awkw, before i found out about the dodgy 4th piston (but after it seemed to be a bit sluggish) i had it on a dyno at a car event and it put out 272awkw.

It seems to run fine, not blowing smoke, nothing in the oil, no weird noises or anything (except for the drop in power) and has a nice list of upgrades on it already.

but the piston and rings wont fix themselves and im too nervious to drive it now.

What should i be looking at getting for the rebuild?

it currently has:

N1 turbos (running 14psi high boost)

HKS engine oil cooler

HKS fuel rail

HKS 900cc injectors

HKS primary exhaust pipes

HKS Cam gears

Gates timing belt

Tomei cam shafts

Sard fuel reg

walbro fuel pump

external 700hp fuel pump

splitfire coils

z32 air flow meters

N1 water pump

PWR radiator

Jun metal Intake Gaskets

HKS FMIC

HD clutch

as for the rest it must be std.

I would like to have a reliable 300kw+ atw, but i know stuff all about rb26's (just love driving them) so if any one has any suggestions about what i should be doing that would be great! (just dont want to be paying for what i dont need)

thanks!!

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N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

On the cheap (cheap is a relative term) the parts to get (other than new bearings etc);

-Pistons

-Crank collar

-N1 oil pump

The pricing for labour and machining though may be a suprise, a lot of people get to where you are right now then sell the car cheap

puke22 Contributor

puke22

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On the cheap (cheap is a relative term) the parts to get (other than new bearings etc);

-Pistons

-Crank collar

-N1 oil pump

The pricing for labour and machining though may be a suprise, a lot of people get to where you are right now then sell the car cheap

yeah i felt disheartened when they showed me what was happening, but i dont think i can bring myself to sell it... as Adriano said: welcome to expensive gtr ownership.

i was thinking forged pistons, rods, n1 oil pump, crank collar... i dont want to skimp on the items and have more drama's down the track, but i dont really want a 600hp monster either.

6-8k depending on the crank condition and similar

Stop driving it if its a bit damaged as well, if it lets go then it'll be more

This is the price they told me, car will be collecting dust in the garage for a while now :thumbsup:

rape it till it breaks....lol

on a serious note...

try squirting a bit of oil in the bore and re-doing the comp test...may be a valve not seating properly.

will try oil in the bore, tho the mechanic said they checked the exhaust and intake and couldn't hear the leak which ment rings? (car was at APC in brissy), dont know if they did the oil test themselves but ive been told good things about them.

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
I wouldnt bother with rods, the stockers are more than adequate for these sort of power levels.

yes...there is nothing fragile about stock RB26 conrods. Keep them and if you feel the need change the rod bolts to ARP items.

Edited by DiRTgarage
puke22 Contributor

puke22

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Try the oil in the bore and if that's no good strip the block down and if it need more than rings and bearings think about going RB30

why think about going rb30 and whats involved in it, would i be spending the same money at the end of the day?

nvm, just read the 2 rb30 conversion stickies...

but what sort of ball park figure am i looking at pulling outta the wallet?

does the fact i only want 300kw+ at the wheels prefer the 26 over the 30? just the rb30conversions i read where all big power builds

im considering building up an engine while this other one dies, does anyone know someone with a long block or comeplete engine? then i can just swap em out when its complete and then i have the stuffed one to play with and fix up over time... bit easier on the funds building the engine up over a couple of months if the current one keeps on keeping on, then i fix/sell/*dream* build track car one day with the original engine

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

If you just want around 300rwkw - stock capacity, paired with HKS GT-SS/-9's/-7's, R34 N1s :)

Those turbos would be too small for a 3ltr and run outta puff, they would virtually make boost @ idle though on a 3ltr lol

But ye, for the power you want i wouldn't go the 3ltr route personally

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted

If the yen gets any better you can pick up r34 n1 long blocks for about 4-5k

the only drawbacks are..

still cast pistons.. but they do have bigger ring lands and thicker rings.

and easily get 300kw out of that without any problems..

could be a good option for you, i did a similar thing.. but then waiting for the motor got the better of me and i ended up spending about 10k in internals/parts for the build

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted

looking around at the moment it seems maybe the 34 n1 option had dried up.. the old links i had have the motor deleted and no longer on theri websites..

one on yahoo for 1100000Y which is a bit pricey and more inline on what local places are charging.

i'm sure someone on the forum here could find you a japanese supplier if you ask them nicely enough.

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

you could pick up an RB30 block for $100 and have it rebuilt using standard crank, rods and just new bearings. use a set of forged pistons and you are done.

the block ready to bolt to the head would cost you about $2k. you would need a sump adapter for the 4wd but that is all. N1's are INSANE on the 3 litre and the off boost torque is great. you donrt need to rev it as hard to make the power.

if you can go and see someone local that has an rb30 in a gtr and get them to take you fro a drive. then you can be the judge :D

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