Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've posted this up before w/ eBay pics, thought it was about time to make an official thread for progress.

1988 A31 Cefiro

RB20DET

5 Speed

HD Clutch

2 Way Diff

Lowered/Stiff springs

Imported in 98 as a N/A Auto, rego'd up until 06, de-rego'd, moved to QLD, converted to Turbo 5 speed, then I bought it off a quick owner, and had it shipped to WA.

91'700KMS, not too sure on this one, REVS matched the engine to the chassis, but the engine has a sticker for 100'000km service performed at 88'000km (in Japan), so unless the engine was imported and swapped right before de-rego, I'd assume it was wound back (gauge cluster is the original auto).

Needs windshield, paint, exhaust fix, coilovers, new tyres (...hehehehe), certificates and a lovely emmisions test.

HICAS isnt getting along nicely with the diff, not sure if I can pass the way it is, sometimes driving in a straight line is interrupted every few seconds by a diff lockup and a yank of the rear end by HICAS.

"LOTS of work" ahead on this one, but so is any car.

Will update when she is painted.

Meanwhile, here is a pic I snapped today after I let it off the lead for a few laps around the block.

image_url-62975-1247910577.jpg

Comments, critisicm, bashing etc, all welcome.

-Nic

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Still tossing up between swapping the diff, or locking HICAS. Once the diff breaks in, I'll see how its going and work it out from there. Changing the diff would suit more to using the car for daily use, but locking the HICAS is only $150 and half a day's work.

Its a 94 model J30 (98-94) Maxima :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/#findComment-4724113
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Exhaust leak almost fixed.

I bought a new manifold, I thought it was just a shinny AM one, but a few mates reckon its all ported and nifty shit. Cost me $330, its on eBay for about $250 (doh!)

So when taking the old manifold off, I was taking the bolts off and got to the end where the leak was, went to take the bolt off and it just fell out of the block. f**k-Nuts, half the stud was still inside the block, and its the close to the firewall, seing as I couldnt fit a drill in there, a fellow SAUWA member came round with compressor/right angle air drill, we drilled the whole way through the studd (accidentally, I was hoping to only go 80-90% through, so not to damage anything inside the block), tried a regular extractor with no luck, but a sqaure/wedge type extractor did the job perfectly, came out in under 2 minutes.

So, there was no exhaust leak, just no stud, but it had 4 gaskets there to minimize the noise.

Thats one more dodgey fixed. Can't wait for new studs to arrive and get that new manifold in, hear what it sounds like without the leak, with cleaned pipes and the BOV reconnected properly.

---------------

Can anybody clear this up for me?

I bought another ECU loom, to eliminate the dodgey wiring at the ignition, but I found that the new RB20 loom doesnt connect to my MAFS.

Apparently the connectin is the same, both in the clip and the wiring pin order. Can anybody tell me what I have fitted on previous loom, current loom, and where the MAFS is from ?? I cant find any re-wiring in the current loom for the MAFS at all, it appears to be an RB20 loom, as every other connector matches the new loom I bought.

Were the Mass Air Flow Sensors different between early and late model RB20s ?

post-62975-1249131017_thumb.jpg

Edited by Nic_A31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/#findComment-4744538
Share on other sites

don't paint her bro. she looks mint as like that.

I have a standard 20e auto a31.... x 2 haha.

bought 20det which is in rebuild stages and trying to sus out parts like adjusties, lsd and hicas lock bar.

currently in the process of getting rid of that god damned sound deadner. hahah.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/#findComment-4745065
Share on other sites

Don't paint her? haha

Good luck with the DET man, its a pretty straight foward drop in, and you get REAL power. I'd go nuts with on a SOHC and Auto.

I wanna make it street legal, its 100% straight on all panels, and the interior is complete, I don't think I could defile it into a track only rig.

I'm going for black pain, kit, DMax guards, and match the back wheels to whatever I'm running on the front (still havent found out what they are).

I think I'm going to need to lock HICAS, its out of control, even when driving straight, dumbest thing ever, should have only been installed on the AWD models.

Matt, your ride looks sick dude. I think all out A31s are possesed hey, mine suffers all sorts of weird shit with the electronics (I can listen to the airport on the factory radio that came with it ? :P)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/#findComment-4745525
Share on other sites

Hey mate, with regards to your air flow meter question, I don't know if this will help in anyway, but my current cefiro (1992 model) has a airflow meter with a plug to match the loom you bought, and my old cefiro (1988 model) has the same as your car (black plug)

Found this out when i went to swap the current afm for the one from my old car, different plug.

Maybe later model has a different afm plug? or maybe my cars had a different plug (and afm)? although i couldn't see any chopping of the loom, looked all factory.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/#findComment-4745922
Share on other sites

^^ Yeah, I cant see any rewiring, which I would expect since the ignition was all "re-wired" (taped), but its factory ish.

Maybe early models were the same connector as Z32, and later models adapted R32 (later models adapted to R32 type ignition connectins (ignitor pack, coils, etc).

I've give my MAF to a mate, he's gonna go find me an adapter, or another connector and I'll just re-wire it that way, pain in the ass but it'll have to do.

ANOTHER UPDATED:

Cleaning engine bay at the moment, while I have all the shit out, waiting for my new studs to arrive.

One side down in 5 hours, got the other side to do, should be alot easier since there arent stiff brake lines and shit to work around.

Car's factory color is actually a gray color similar to picture above, not black like I originally thought.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/#findComment-4745941
Share on other sites

^^ Yeah, I cant see any rewiring, which I would expect since the ignition was all "re-wired" (taped), but its factory ish.

Maybe early models were the same connector as Z32, and later models adapted R32 (later models adapted to R32 type ignition connectins (ignitor pack, coils, etc).

I've give my MAF to a mate, he's gonna go find me an adapter, or another connector and I'll just re-wire it that way, pain in the ass but it'll have to do.

ANOTHER UPDATED:

Cleaning engine bay at the moment, while I have all the shit out, waiting for my new studs to arrive.

One side down in 5 hours, got the other side to do, should be alot easier since there arent stiff brake lines and shit to work around.

Car's factory color is actually a gray color similar to picture above, not black like I originally thought.

You'll have to let me kno how u go with the 5 stud, i was thinking of doing the conversion but i just bought some buddy clubs in 4 stud.

Got any pics to go with ur update?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/#findComment-4753506
Share on other sites

I'm just going to buy a 5 stud conv. kit off JustJap unless I can find something to raid at the local wreckers here.

Will try and get some pics tomorrow, engine bay still looks funny, one side matt black, the other reflective grey/blue.

I got onto a good run tonight removing the old studs so I can replace them with the flash new ones, but just as I got into it, I ran out of nuts to lock together on the studs, so, gotta go buy more to get the last 6 off.

Once its all back together I can take a picture of all the piping repainted. Attatched a pic of the crossover pipe (think thats what they call it).

Also want to paint the camshaft covers and intake manifold, but that might be later.

Once it is running I've got to get onto fixing that air con, was screaming the last few times I started it, so gotta disconnect or fix it before it goes Boom.

post-62975-1249560862_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/#findComment-4753754
Share on other sites

Pics of clean side and dirty side. I'll let you guys do the working out.

Found its pretty scratched up the more I clean it, all the more reason to pull the engine and do the whole bay top to bottom and respray it in black, but that'd take a while, so another thing I'll leave unless I do an RB25DET swap.

My AFM is a factory A31, the harness I picked up is R32, which is different to A31/Z32 connectors, but the same wiring. A mate of mine is swapping my A31 for an R32 to match my new loom, and no more dodgey rewiring.

This arvo I'll finish cleaning the left side of the block, fit the new manifold, fit the turbo - now cleaned, top up the fluids, and thats that side done.

Take off the Intake manifold and paint black, matching the pic of the induction pipe I posted before, fit the new wiring loom and R32 AFM, clean the other side of the block and engine bay and she'll be rocking.

More progress :rofl: w00t w00t!

post-62975-1249791637_thumb.jpg

post-62975-1249791667_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/#findComment-4757477
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Today I picked me up some R33 GTS-T brakes, they were a shitheap when I got them, so I sanded back the rust on the rotors, completely stripped the calipers, dismantled them, drained out whatvever that "fluid" was, repainted them, re assembled. Going to try and fit the R33 booster tomorrow, as mine is fubar'd, while I've got the Ceffy one off, good chance to paint the engine bay black (most engine bay shit is inside the car at the moment...)

Also a good chance, while I have the interior out, to respray that.

Need to find some 5 stud hubs before I can chuck the rotors on.

Pics below.

Main jobs pending:

Coilovers

- Next mod, HSDs for $1400 + delivery :) Hurry up monthly pay day!!

Exhaust

- 3in turbo back with new cat convertor, twin tip, and quietened down as much as possible, $1500 +/-

- Already fitted an eBay turbo manifold, I decided the bling sucks, so now its coated in matt black 1500 degree paint, also painted the turbo and shell

and the split dump pipe at the same time....not its camo to cops

Body kit

- Chasing an Autech or URAS, depending on how much clearance I can get with coilovers

Body trim / glass

- Hurry up TAKUSHI :D

Paint

- Dark gun metal grey, with the wheel wells, radiator / FMIC painted black.

Hoping for rego just after Christmas.

post-62975-1254575364_thumb.jpg

post-62975-1254575397_thumb.jpg

post-62975-1254575425_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/#findComment-4860488
Share on other sites

Arent they the same caliper as Z32? Would make sense if the Z32s are bigger considering their higher power output, torque and about the same weight, the extra braking would be needed.

Somehow I dont think those rotors will fit with the calipers unless I use bigger knuckles and hubs, but then coilovers wont fit...so I might need to stick to pee-wee 4stud rotors?

anyone fitted R33 calipers and rotors to A31 knuckles ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/#findComment-4863140
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
    • Yup but for me its the HR ! Cut my teeth on the old holden 6s in the day ! And here's me thinking in the day it was also the 300ZX and the Mitsubishi GT3000 ! All, as well had good lines, but always seemed to need finishing off, style wise.
×
×
  • Create New...