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mmm if you want, try get ahold of sum s14 hubs, without calipers and rotors as all your 33 shit will slip on, will mean youll have

to redrill the holes out on the base of your coilovers and use s14 bolts, worked a treat on mine, and did you say you were fitting

just the 33 booster or the master cylinder too? coz you'll need a 32 gtst bm44 master for the bigger brakes or you'll get nice

lengthy travel in your foot pedal, not a nice feeling when you gota stop quick haha

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Dont those bases that wrap around come off?

One of the HSD distributors over East said the only difference between the S13 and A31 coilovers is the rear bases...and they just change them onsite themselves. So they'd have to be removable wouldnt they?

Otherwise, how did you go about drilling the holes out ? just trace an A31 base around the hole and cut away? no balancing issues or any bullshit?

Was wondering why you insisted on using S14 knuckles hey, makes sense now. :D

NEXT PROBLEM: Brake lines - f**king banjo bolts...

Edited by Nic_A31
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yeah haha once i made the holes bigger using a dye grinder i was alright, the bases arent interchangable on my coillies

as for banjo bolts yeah i can suggest the not so proper way, still works good, just hope it doesnt take a hard enuf knock to loosen the banjo

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Here's up my update from AntiLag, some old, some new info, + PICS

OK, I forgot to update this, so here we go:

Engine bay, all stock, back when I had it running...thats going back to...late July? probably earlier.

dm3bk5.jpg

Stuffing around with the pedals while I was writting a message on my phone one day, the brake pedal went all the way down and slowly hissed its way back up...fluid running down the firewall and the calipers on rock solid - yay. Well if I'm going to replace the booster, might as well replace the calipers with R33 GTS-Ts while Im there. Big enough upgrade ?

a32koz.jpg

Since most of the time on this thing is spent waiting for the next monthly pay day, I've got pretty much all the time in the world, and since I don't bother putting shit back together, I clean it and pretty it up.

2wcnwnm.jpg

Again with the engine bay, it was black when I got it, I cleaned it down to a reflective blue/grey, now its getting a few coats of black. If I didn't have to replace almost everything I wouldn't bother with this process, but, I do, so here's for improvising :D

t0n9yc.jpg

Interior isnt looking any better. Im re-trimming some shit, installing an alarm, still fixing some eletrical bullshit, and I'm sending the dash off tomorrow to get some dashmats made up to suit the A31, gonna sell on SAU.

2ajarv8.jpg

Again, too much time on my hands, might as well paint the interior, rather than pay someone else to do it for me.

23l0cwp.jpg

One more, booster in, firewall painted.

vqmnh3.jpg

Engine bay / interior / boot is storing more of my shit than the shed is at the moment.

So, I've run into a few little drama's since I've got it, didn't think I'd be replacing soo much shit, but works out better in the end I guess, especially shit like brakes, I'm glad I found that nasty little f**ker in my driveway and not on the roads.

Once its built, Im taking it to a track, and it'll get at least 5 minutes of sheer flogging, anything else that wants to break on me can do it there and then. Then I'll pretty much have an indestructible Ceffy ?

NEXT MODS:

HSD Coilovers

Bulk order from KYP (mostly just trim shit Im missing, will grab some floors mats, weather shields, S2 tails, etc while Im at it)

Exhaust (3" turbo back, twin tips and hopefully quiet, new cats, quoted ballpark fig of $1500, still shopping around before I go ahead on that one)

Kit (probably Autech at this point, maybe something else depending on height clearance with coilovers)

Windshield

Paint

Might try for a FMIC sometime in between all that too. Gotta do up some brake lines, get some matching 5 studs, and some other fiddly shit between now and them. Yay for the months ahead.

OK, so pretty much all of that bullshit is useless information, but it gives you all an idea of what kind of fun I'm having :banana:

-Nic

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Given up on this.

So, it seems I was wrong to have a hobby, everybody just bitches and whinges when you have a car that isnt running. I think having not started the engine in 3-4 months isnt looking good, and having it jacked up unevenly has done some serious damage.

Mainly I can't find the room in the shed, the funds, or the motivation to keep this thing, so its unadvertised, but is for sale, if I can pull enough cash for it to cover most of my losses, its gone, if not, I'll keep it and see what I can do. If it IS bent/warped, I'll get a rolling shell, take all the straight panels, sunroof etc off this one, and the engine, cradle, box, all the good shit, and poor it into a straight shell....BUT, that's going to be a while away, I'll be amazed if I can actually sell this cursed piece of shit.

Game over...probably.

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you'll get there man. just get a move on with the work, as parts such as loom are gonna be the main hold up

also unless that a r32 interior loom u wont need a new one, it shud all work regardless of spec

Edited by Dan_J
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well aircon wont work, auto lights , wipers , dont think fog lights will work all with out rewiring if using r32 interior loom

not sure on cluster but you will have extra plugs for stock boost gauge nd oil.

as i said get me pics, also got a complete 32 look so i can compare

Edited by Dan_J
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Well atleast you've had a RUNNING Ceffy the whole time - Im having withdrawal symptoms from boost, and sideways and shit.

Nah, not gonna throw the towel in too soon - got the car into the shed and making some room for it, this means I can use weeknights to work on it now, not just weekends.

I might rebuild my Ceffy ECU loom since I cant be f**ked re-wiring shit into the 32, BUT I've already swapped my Ceffy air flow metre for a 32 one...I dunno who ended up with my old meter, since a mate did the trade for me....f**k (dunno if the Z32 fits straight in without needing to remap the ECU ??)

Only got:

Suspension ($1600)

Paint ($...ballpark figure SHOULD be around a thousand, but Ive asked atleast a dozen for a ballpark figure and still they're not interested in a non-labor paint job), Exhaust ($1500)

and tidy up + fit the alarm and I'm all done

Glass is all sorted but Im getting desperate for the bling trim bits around the windows, and some internal shit too, for when new windshield goes in and post-paint job. I dont really NEED it, but they'd be nice.

BEFORE ALL THAT: Taking Chassis measurements this weekend...I rolled it in tonight and I swear it doesnt sit evenly...see how it sits on level conrete on axle stands first, but I'm worried.

Just to make my week on this thing worse, I've f**ked my back...then f**ked it even worse tonight, AND my mate's engine crane fell over and f**ked the ram....so I'm really not in a good mood with vehicles / tools / that area of my property at the moment.

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Suspension is a must since I took the old shit out and its stuffed.

Exhaust I dont REALLY need but I'm still gonna get it done before the road.

What happens with the extra wires on the Ceffy loom to the R32 engine loom?

I'll try and take a pic when I actually find them.

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OK GUYS - VOTE TIME:

Need a temporary paint job to pass pits.

Should I

A) Hold out, keep sanding + preping and get a proper job

B) Have a crack at doing my own matt black job in the shed ?

About 500 to do, probably a bit less.

Again, only until I can pass the pits. Option B is quicker towards rego, but means the proper job (which I insist I'll get done eventually anyway) requires sanding back, primer, etc again.

OR Option C) fork out more cash, and have a go at my own 2 pak job in the shed (Yeah, I know....)

Once more - pending chassis measurements before I burn another cent on it.

Whats it gonna be fella's ? CHOP CHOP!

Edited by Nic_A31
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Measuring the chassis today to dictate the fate of this car.

Measuring from rail to opposite rail, inside and outside, and 5 different points.

Also measuring from chasssis to ground at the corners and the same five points and also from corner to corner.

Going to take a closer look at the rails on the inside to check for any rust / corrosion, and I'm going to have a better look at the rear cradle - I'm sure its not bolted in properly and is what's causing the wobbles. If its not the cradle I'll have to drop the entire drivetrain and re-assemble it, swap out HICAS and do some more deep cleaning while I'm at it.

Anything else I should be looking for ?

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  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
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