Ceffeh

[Dorigecko]

350z gearbox 1k? that's friggen cheap... 25det g/b still go for around 1400 man.

[Nic_A31]

Yeah...car shit is priced on weight

Got a crossmember lined up, if I can find a halfcut importer, it's green light for a VQ30DET Cefiro.

[DanShirts]

I thought the S13 had a bit more height but the A31 had more width and depth? Not that it makes that much difference...

Do the VQ! I can get a VQ35 cheap, but I want someone else to experiment with fitting one before I do.

[Ceffy]

Put a 2jz in it...

[Nic_A31]

No pics, but just for the sake of updating.

Nolathane bushes front and rear.

JJR 5 Stud Hubs front and rear

Monkey Warehouse kit

Black Interior

All the interior bullshit is done...I'll leave some of it off to make the job easier for the poor bastard that does the alarm.

Final shit from Import Monster has arrived, so external trim is all sweet.

Next pay is probably going on to finishing the brakes (new pads, slotted rotors, braided lines), R32 stockies, and new windshield.

Then, paint time.

Exhaust and engine bay modification on hold, pending engine choice.

[Dorigecko]

cheaper and more reliable to build your RB a little bit squire. And OH SO MUCH EASIER. Yus? Yus. I believe so.

[Nic_A31]

It's also a pretty gay engine, it's heavy, has no power, no torque...and endless problems....in particular...low end knock

But seriously, the pro's outweigh the cons...and look at this build thread...does it really look lik I'm scared of doing a little bit of work to get what I want ? Hell no.

[Dorigecko]

You're teetering on and off the verge of selling the c*nt off too, mate. get it driving ASAP.

Edited March 10, 2010 by Dorigecko

[Mr Eps]

yeahdoyouwannagetstabbedonawednesdayorwhatcunt.

[Dorigecko]

Why do we not hang out, eps?

[Nic_A31]

Please stop trolling my thread.

Until the vehicle is rolling and the body work is finished, I am considering engine options.

I.

ME.

Not other twits.

I'll be sure to keep you girls in the loop.

[toffy]

You think a VK will fit?

I've seen a VH fitted in a ceffy (with no bonnet)...but theyre smaller and heavier...the VKs are a bit bigger but alot lighter...would be keen to measure one up and see if it'd fit for a track car.

The primer that's on now is 2 pak..but its copped it bad being outdoors for soo long...and I've been using the bonnet as a workbench, so I've sanded that down a few times and its uneven, even down to the metal in some spots...I'll even the primer down as much as I can, but when it comes to paint time, I'll get them to redo the primer if need be...paint is another thing I'll be paying alot of attention to.

What about the stuff I have painted already?

I've done underside and inside the wheel wells in chassis black...engine bay in acrylic chip resistant black..and with inside the doors and shit..I sanded it down, 2 coats of acrylic primer...3 coats of black, 2 coats of clear coat (but it still chips really easy...so I might sand that back as well and just fork out more $$ for 2 pak when I get the whole car done) ... reckon I can get away with that? or sand it down and go the whole 9 ?

anything will fit if you want it too! , ls1/2 fit and they seem pretty similar in size to a vk? . as for paint , it depends what your building the car upto , if it was just a snotter then leave the jams but if it's something you aim to make into a tidy streeter then do it properly , you'll thank yourself when it's done

[Nic_A31]

Havent updated this in a while.

hve picked up another Ceffy to get around in, had a small amount of attention needed.

RB20E, auto.

Seemingly genuine 76xxx kms, some weird cloth interior, sunroof.

The seller fixed up a crashed in bumper and got it running, that left me with a rust spot on the rear right door, and the front right guard needing attention.

Rust spot has been bogged up, primed and painted...color definately doesnt match but it doesnt pull anywhere near as much attention.

Guard still needs fixing which will be done soon, and Thursday she's getting an alarm. I'll be temporarily (or perm?) putting my HSD coilovers into this, and registering it with the 20E and auto gearbox, but hopefully getting the 20DET and manual from my bigger project out and into this one.

As for the bigger project, I've barely looked at it lately, changed a few bushes but still in the process of changing every single bush front to back :\

Fitted a Cusco strut brace, and got R32 GTST wheels waiting to go on (need to change tyres to keep speedo in sync), also about to pull the engine and box.

Pics include initial condition, rust spot, and injury I sustained when I gripped the wrong end of a stanley blade which left me bleeding (quiet a lot) for well over an hour and a 3-4mm slit into my index finger, which is still recovering, 2 weeks later.

[toffy]

that rust is in a bad spot! , what's the inside of the top of the door like? (and the rest of the door!) i'd suggest you find a damaged door and cut the top off it and weld it to that one if you ever wanted to clean it up properly . pics of the trim??

Edited May 1, 2010 by toffy

[Nic_A31]

What you see in the pic was the worst of it, provoked.

I scratched away at it to make sure all the rotten stuff was out, the inside of the door was all good, just had to vacuum out all the small bits of rust.

Bogged it up and its all sealed now.

Theres a few other rust spots in the paint, like on the boot, under both side mirrors and in the middle of the roof at the windshield but they but they only look like surface rust for now, hopefully they dont breach in.

[Dorigecko]

Did you convert/fish-oil the innards of where the rust spot ate through nic? if not, any chance of it coming back? It doesn't look too bad.

I REALLY have to come around and have a look at this bad boy some day soon.

[Nic_A31]

Between when I looked at the car initially and the second time, and when I picked it up, I'd taken note of how big the rust spot was (compared it along side my index finger), and it hadnt grown...which I was expecting since it'd been sitting out in the rain, even on the day we got that epic hail storm and 63mm of rain in 30mins.

I just bashed in all the loose rust, cut another few mm off around that, and sanded the cut in, then bogged it....if it still manages to come back I'll actually be impressed.

There was some rust forming on the inside of the opposite door, and a little on the fronts, which hadnt breached - looks like those weather shields werent sealed onto the door properly and were letting water build up between the plastic and the door itself, which is why it started eating away

[Dan_J]

decent battle scar there

it shud come back latter on as you need to use rust converter/dissolve as it eats up all the lil specs left ova but it shud be fine till you get it on the road after some time.

welding in flat sheet metal, beating it to shape aint too hard when the time comes to restore it

[esky_mad]

or buy a mint white door off me...

[Nic_A31]

On all the non turbos...like this one once upon a time, they have markers and trace lines in the panel, to show where to cut circles for the intercooler pipes to enter and exit the engine bay...despite this, Queenslanders/New South Welsh/Eastern Staters, STILL managed to f**k this up badly.

Here's before pics, and today's progress on the matter.

I dunno who the f**k calls that cutting...certainly not me.

They're meant to be neat circles...

I cut the panel out in two squares.

I got a sheet of metal, stuck it up with some pop rivets.

Oncei t was mounted firm, I cut the holes out

I blended the difference with a metal fibre bog.

Then, sanded it back, and gave it some primer. Its still very bumpy...so it will need some more sanding, some putty and evening out, then it'll be sweet.