Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rear cradle dropped for service, bushes and maybe a respray.

Front coilovers test fitted with strut brace.

5 Stud hubs test fitted....

Restarting on the brakes.

Getting them sandblasted, then anodised, then going to have a crack at rebuilding them with new seals. Will add pics of each stage as it occurs.

214z13r.jpg

Edited by Nic_A31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/page/6/#findComment-5314737
Share on other sites

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thanks.

R33 GTR Rims...I got 4 with tread for a VERY good price, these should be for the other Ceffy, but I couldn't resist, had to test fit them in the shed tonight,

PERFECT offset and width.

2wqd1tf.jpg

2ueogn7.jpg

In other news, I rang the nearest sandblaster in the Yellow Pages today....asked for a ballpark figure to blast all 8 calipers I'm doing.....cost?....carton of beer.

Legend!!

Anodising is going to cost me about $150 for all 8

Seals are $100 for per set of calipers, so $200 all up for me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/page/6/#findComment-5321843
Share on other sites

Were those gregs rims? If so, nice. Brilliant fitment.

Who's anodizing for you?

Are you going to get like PMU pads or anything like that, or are you just gonna go bendix? The ultimates that I put into toms gt-r were pretty good, but they probably got nothing on the Project Mu pads.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/page/6/#findComment-5321882
Share on other sites

Were Greg's rims yes.

Zinc Coaters in Welshpool are doing anodising, they work day and night, and are on the next street parallel to my work, so easy to get to :)

Pads, dunno, at this stage, all the Nissan pads I've got have plenty of meat left on them, but will upgrade to something a little better later on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/page/6/#findComment-5321918
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Fark, the attention to detail is wicked bud, I wish I had the time and money to do what you are doin. Can't wait to see this ceff finished, will look minter!!! Any luck with that digital climate control unit yet or not?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/page/6/#findComment-5379348
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Solid as f**k.

ra3hvd.jpg

Will clean cradle down and respray it before it goes back in.

Still deciding on the rest of the rear suspension.

Replaces bushes?

or

Nismo sh*t?

2 Way diff, will be staying, regardless :)

OTHER NEWS:

-Now using an S14 steering rack

-Complete HICAS removal

Hasnt been touched other than that, in....f**k, ages. Stupid other Ceffy is wasting my time!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/page/6/#findComment-5435530
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Aaaaand this little adventure resumes. Unfortunately no pics of today's events, however this is what you can expect to see...

Plans for the next week:

Finish respraying underside of car [sound deadener] (halfway there)

Strip back engine bay, again

Clean and re-assemble front suspension, LCA's, steering rack, etc to crossmember.

Clean and re-spray cradle

Clean and dye C33 Laurel Dash, fit, and wire up extra's

Clean interior

Weld up old intercooler in/out panel provisions

Plans for fornight/onwards:

Strip GTR cradle and put it all onto current cradle (with solid bushes)

Remove front and rear windshields

Plans for month/onwards:

Respray engine bay

Respray car?

Plans for next 3 months/onwards:

Decide on powerplant/drivetrain, build and fit

Replace all the bits I raped off it for the other one (ie 5 stud, brakes, coilovers, etc)

This is "The Hump", it's in a billion pieces, the car hasn't moved a millimeter in nearly 2 years, and for the first time since then I'm putting shit back together rather then dissasembling.

VOTE TIME

RB25DET NEO

RB26DETT

RB30DET/T

VQ30DETT (added challenge)

SR20DET (shitter diesel truck spec)

Fully built VK56DE+TT (For Ultra-LOLs / pant-shitting)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/page/6/#findComment-5762263
Share on other sites

sound deadener

Dont use anything from any commercial shops ( autobarn, auto1 ) as they are all shit and dont set and harden as i've stated before, talk to a panel beater/sprayer( or toffy) to get some real stuff

if you dont want to keep it to a specific cc's then rb30 + 25 head (copy front facing intakes are cheap enuff)

VQ30DET if u want head aches, stuffing around but finally a great motor

or SR20DE+T/SR20DET if you like trucks

more info on "dye C33 Laurel Dash" and cost etc pm etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/page/6/#findComment-5766733
Share on other sites

VHT Vinyl dye...comes in a spray can, its around $15.00 mark.

Clean the surface down real good 2-3 times, spray the vinyl on, let it dry, repeat.

It's a dye rather than a paint, and actually sinks into the vinyl and changes the color, so its resistant to cleaning agents and fairly resistant against sun damage (although it has faded slightly in my other Cefiro).

Dash looks brand new.

I'll take pics tonight if I get enough daylight after work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/page/6/#findComment-5767281
Share on other sites

Got stuck in today stripping the temp. paint in the engine bay, didn't find any rust which is good, some of the factory paint was chipped up and flaking, dunno why.

Gave it some primer over the top of the area's I did strip back. I'll strip down the other area's tomorrow, and strip back the primer I laid, then apply 1 coat of primer, still can't make my mind up as to paint it myself in high temp acrylic or just get it done same time as the whole car.

These things make life breezy

B-DX36005.jpg

Anyway, some blurry shithouse pics off teh new phone.

s3q2w5.jpg

2hp0tj6.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279725-ceffeh/page/6/#findComment-5778980
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...