Turbo Conversion With Na Computer?

[Super Drager]

Hey everyone was wondering if it was possible on relatively low boost (~5psi). Mechanic i spoke to said that a low boost setup would be ok for a short time aslong as i got atleast a GTR fuel pump. So tell me, is this true or is this mechanic blowing steam out his arse.

[Silver_GT]

its been done plenty of times on heaps of different cars, but for the safest, reliable setup, you'd wanna get a daughterboard in your ecu and have it tuned. its Cash youll be spending up front that will save you money later by stoping your motor going kaboom.

[N-DAWG]

The reason he recommended a GTR pump is so that you can supply the extra needed juice so it doesn't lean out and go boom. That and a turbo = a lot more air = a lot more fuel potentially required.

Fuel Pump (Walbro GSS342, GTR Pump, Bosch), Injectors (R33 GTSt if running an RB25DE, R34 GTT if running an RB25DE NEO), an ECU that can handle ignition timing (eManage pretty much your best option for an auto, if manual then eManage Ultimate or Apexi PowerFC). Important that it be dyno tuned to ensure it's safe. Fuel will obviously be adjusted to match the much higher air flow, and ignition timing will be retarted a lot to prevent things from going boom.

Make sure you have adequate exhaust flow to help get that air out of the turbo efficiently (high compression + boost means more boost earlier).

A good FMIC Front Mount Intercooler will help keep temperatures where you want them to be also. Something like a JustJap Cooling Pro, or HDI Hybrid.

Got more details on which model Skyline you want to do this with? Any existing mods?

[Super Drager]

Series 1 R33, catback exhaust and filter. For a Front mount i was thinking about an XR6 cooler, since both pipes go to one side and i can get them for pretty cheap aswell. I'm getting some really cheap parts like 370cc injectors, GTS25t Ecu and AFM but i'm gunna have to wait to pick them up.

Edited July 19, 2009 by Super Drager

[dori34]

dont need afm, you can use your existing one.

you can also try a 7M-GTE cooler, its got end tanks on the same side as well.

[WYTSKY]

in regards to ur question about turboing using an n/a ecu, Personally as I have already done this, I didnt want to risk it, but if you dont want to run boost for a short time and just want to get it somewhere ie from mechanic to home/etc.... you could disconect the actuator... u wont be making boost then... i had to do that once..... didnt go over 3000 rpm for 32kms home ....had to do 80km/h home on the 100km/h freeway but I got home and car was fine......

[Super Drager]

All up parts are costing me ~$900(thanks to getting some freebies ) and i can do most of the work myself. I'm Budgeting around 2,000 because i'm also going to go for redrilled to 4 stud GTSt Disks.

[iseekool]

Hey everyone was wondering if it was possible on relatively low boost (~5psi). Mechanic i spoke to said that a low boost setup would be ok for a short time aslong as i got atleast a GTR fuel pump. So tell me, is this true or is this mechanic blowing steam out his arse.

The DE+t has crossed my mind lately (I have an R34) - but i'm not really after getting more power - I'm after a more broader torque curve tuned mainly for long distance/twisty roads. The type of setup I'm after is something like the XR5 turbo/VW golf GTi. Low boost and high compression.

Assuming I do not want to go past the 147kw (stock n/a output). Would I be able to keep it mainly "stock" including ecu etc?

All I would need would need is a SMIC and turbo with some custom piping?

I know this has been covered before - but mainly for power gains. My intention is purly just for strong toruqe at lower RPMs with the boost cutting out as the RPM increases.

Cheers

[WYTSKY]

The DE+t has crossed my mind lately (I have an R34) - but i'm not really after getting more power - I'm after a more broader torque curve tuned mainly for long distance/twisty roads. The type of setup I'm after is something like the XR5 turbo/VW golf GTi. Low boost and high compression.

Assuming I do not want to go past the 147kw (stock n/a output). Would I be able to keep it mainly "stock" including ecu etc?

All I would need would need is a SMIC and turbo with some custom piping?

I know this has been covered before - but mainly for power gains. My intention is purly just for strong toruqe at lower RPMs with the boost cutting out as the RPM increases.

Cheers

Thats 147kw at the fly mate, == something like 100rwkw. u'd get 150rwkw using stock turbo parts. be pretty responsive,

as covered before ud need more then turbo and piping, but yeh a smic would do the job, wouldnt need a larger fmic unless u up the boost...

[G0DZLR]

toshi on these forums has an ECU that he tuned for my car shortly before i blew my turbo. didnt end up getting it, but its still up for grabs. tuned for a highcomp motor running stock RB25 turbo, bosch 040, R34 GTT SMIC (a good alternative to a FMIC), GTST injectors. if theres anything you think you might need check this thread out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...as-t278847.html

[iseekool]

Thats 147kw at the fly mate, == something like 100rwkw. u'd get 150rwkw using stock turbo parts. be pretty responsive,

as covered before ud need more then turbo and piping, but yeh a smic would do the job, wouldnt need a larger fmic unless u up the boost...

Your spot on mate. I don't intentend to get any extra power - but if I did get more its just a bonus. Just something with lots of torque at lower RPMs like the european cars. My question is because i'm not after any big at all, will the stock n/a components be enough?

[N-DAWG]

that's the best thing about the N/A+t conversion... the up n go response Mind you there is still turbo lag, just very little and you notice it after about a week of driving lol

If by stock parts you're also referring to stock GTT Injectors and pump, then yeah should be fine. I wouldn't like to be running a turbo with stock GT injectors and pump, better safe than sorry.

Don't forget running of the stock actuator you will be running 7PSI. On my dyno graph it peaks at 9PSI before tapering off after 5500revs. So my advice would be to ensure it's not going to be starved of fuel, plus it will give you room to improve if you catch the power bug.

Dan used mostly stock GTT parts when he converted his R34 with good results, in fact I think the only thing that was different was the eManage Blue, and later a 2.75" zorst.

JJR Front/Dumps are only $200, you might as well go with that, and spend a few hundred on a 2nd hand catback system, if you can push the funds a bit further, would be worth it and ensure that you're getting the gasses out of the engine/turbo efficiently, not just to increase power but get that hot air out in a timely manner.

[Super Drager]

Ok so i have a list of most things i'm getting, if theres anything else i should add let me know.

Turbo - RB25 Item

Oil & water Lines

charge piping

XR6 cooler + charge pipes

GTR Fuel Pump

Clutch - Exedy or better?

GTSt Ecu

GTSt Injectors

Splitfires

I can get the Turbo,cooler + pipes, fuel pump and clutch within a short time but the other parts will have to wait.

[N-DAWG]

Ok so i have a list of most things i'm getting, if theres anything else i should add let me know.

Turbo - RB25 Item

Oil & water Lines

charge piping

XR6 cooler + charge pipes

GTR Fuel Pump

Clutch - Exedy or better?

GTSt Ecu

GTSt Injectors

Splitfires

I can get the Turbo,cooler + pipes, fuel pump and clutch within a short time but the other parts will have to wait.

Front & Dump pipe and a high flow kitty. Are you still going to run a piggy back ECU? I assume you're intending to rely on the GTSt ECU to manage fuel, but what about ignition timing? or can that all be remapped?

Misc. silicon joiners and bends and clamps to suit.

Crossover pipe and BOV (plumback BOV would be best)

RB25DET Exhaust Manifold

Fresh spark plugs while you're at it, NGK Iridiums will do a good job and you can get them regapped to suit the turbo application.

I recommend sourcing a factory heatshield for the manifold and turbo if you don't already have it... either that or get some ACL heatshield and cut it up to fit over the manifold/dump and turbo. believe me it makes a BIG difference to the heatsoak!!

Heatshield for your oil and water lines and any other lines that run close to the turbo/dump pipe/manifold. Something like DEI Heat Shield that goes around the lines.

if you're air filter is pod, I recommended an enclosure to shield it as well.

RB25DET turbo inlet piping, unless you can work with the factory airbox and piping? I know it worked out for Dori34 on his R34... I went with an Apexi Pod and factory RB25DET inlet pipe, and used a justjap airbox.

Edited July 20, 2009 by N-DAWG

[Super Drager]

Yes above items are already in my budget. As for timing, i dont know.....i'm planning to keep the DET Ecu running the show and then when cashflow is a bit better an emanage would go nicely.

Edited July 20, 2009 by Super Drager

[G0DZLR]

iridium plugs are a waste of money in my exp...lasted about a month on my DE+t efore they were missing all over the place, with appropiate gapping. am using stock standard NGKs now (forget what the part number is) they work a treat, and dont cost a small fortune either (like $16 for a set, with trade discount )

theres also a 290kw R32 with a worked RB25 flying round town that is also proof of this fact, same plugs as i have, and i have a third of the power ^_^

[Super Drager]

Just wondering guys, is it true that Automatic GTS25t's run less boost that Manual ones? I've read that they only have a 5psi actuator compared to the manual 7psi one.