Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As some of you may have read in my for sale post, i recently installed a Trust T88-33D. Front housing size im not too sure but when i checked for the exhaust housing size the numbers 1.5 were stamped inside. So im guessing exhaust housing size is 1.5!

Comparing it to my old Garret Turbo which was a .82rear housing it comes on boost only a few hunder rpm later. I thought i wouldnt be on boost till 6k but i was completely wrong. I havent tuned it as yet but will be hopefully shortly. Im only running 1.1bar at the moment and it feels so much stronger on the st then the old turbo. With some tuning it should come onto boost possibly even earlier.

Does any one on here know of any else using a T88 on a Rb25??

Also were can i get more specs on Trust turbos as i have tried searching through the net but to no avail.

Thanks

Harun

Just thought i would post my 2c for people who thought about installing such turbo onto there car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27982-rb25det-t88-33d/
Share on other sites

Also, just wondering why you would put a turbo on that you thought wouldnt make boost until 6000 rpm?

If you want to bring it on boost earlier, try fitting a split pulse manifold, as the T88s were designed for them.

There is an article in an old hpi mag about a top secret GTR with T88-34D, it made 'more than 1 bar' at around 4500rpm and 430odd rwkw at 1.9 bar boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27982-rb25det-t88-33d/#findComment-582900
Share on other sites

Well i was told it was a Garret Gt35/40R by the previous owner. But i dont think it was. Im guessing it was more a Gt35 with .82 rear housing.

Thanks for the chart Steve.

Also i had been told buy many people it would be on boost before 5k. It was just my suspicions. The car does make 1 bar of boost before 5k aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27982-rb25det-t88-33d/#findComment-582903
Share on other sites

Originally posted by RNS11Z

Well i was told it was a Garret Gt35/40R by the previous owner. But i dont think it was. Im guessing it was more a Gt35 with .82 rear housing.

RNZ11Z,

i believe the GT35/40 and the GT35 are both the same.

if u can tell me the part number on the centre cartridge, i'll tell you what turbo it is.

Also, it should have the A/R stamped on the exhaust housing.

Originally posted by RNS11Z

Thanks for the chart Steve.

yeah, thanks for the chart Steve :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27982-rb25det-t88-33d/#findComment-583365
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   anyone know where I can pick one of these up for a reasonable price? I just resprayed my rear trunk due to fuel stain and my new muse spat install.    added a photo for some content 🤣👍   thanks 
    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
×
×
  • Create New...