Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My L28 which is running an L24 ECU, L28 AFM and Green injectors (I'm assuming they are L28 items...) is giving me grief.

I originally had some problems where the car had some manifold leaks, and it would sound lke a tractor and really not make much power. It did though idle nicely and rev smoothly. I took the manifolds of and fixed the leaks. Put it all back together, went to start it back up and it was idling ROUGH, like barely going. Wouldn't even rev. Pulled the plugs and they were soaked in petrol. Woudn't even start now unless I cleaned the plugs first, and even then it would only run for a half a minute before dying again and soaking the spark plugs.

I checked and made sure that the injectors were actually firing (not just stuck on), and checked the cold start valve.Tested the AFM and the TPS (and they appeared to give back the correct resistance readings).Even tried my spare L24 ECU. Only thing I haven't tested yet is the water temp sensor, and thermotime switch. Although I'm not sure if its even possible they could be causing this over fuelling problem. I'm also going to check the fuel pressure to make sure the presure regulator is working.

Is there likely to be an issue with using the L28 AFM with the L24 ECU? Could any vacuum leaks have been covering this up before?

Cheers

Ray

had similar problem after i changed the head gasket on my old r30. was the fpr.

was also runnin l28e afm but was all good. their the same as far as i could tell, only different spring tension on the flap which is easy 2 change. not sure bout the injectors but would say they would b bigger? think l28's r 188cc. not sure what l24s are. but then again i ran 260cc (vlt) injectors when bolted a turbo on and would still run ok, just rich as..

had similar problem after i changed the head gasket on my old r30. was the fpr.

was also runnin l28e afm but was all good. their the same as far as i could tell, only different spring tension on the flap which is easy 2 change. not sure bout the injectors but would say they would b bigger? think l28's r 188cc. not sure what l24s are. but then again i ran 260cc (vlt) injectors when bolted a turbo on and would still run ok, just rich as..

Weird that'd it would just crap out all of a sudden. I've got a pressure gauge coming in the post but I may not bother waiting as I can get a replacement FPR reasonably cheap anyway.

Weird that'd it would just crap out all of a sudden. I've got a pressure gauge coming in the post but I may not bother waiting as I can get a replacement FPR reasonably cheap anyway.

Hi,

Found this note (but can't comment on the quality of the advice):

"An easy way to test for an FPR leak in the vacuum side is to replace the vacuum line going into the FPR with a length of clear tubing. Now you'll be able to see leak as it happens. IT will most likely show failure when your vacuum is at its lowest point, as in during acceleration."  (on http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshoo..._fpr_inspt.htm)

JohnH

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...