Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Putting my 32 up for sale. Im not to concerned if it doesn't sell at the moment, this is more of an EOI

It a 1989 Model R32 4 Door.

I have almost all the receipts for the modifications done.

Engine;

RB20DET

Greedy FMIC

Turbo Back Exhaust

Twin 2.5in Straight Pipes

Suspension;

Cucso Coilovers

R32 GTR 26mm rear sway bar

New Super Pro Rear Sway Bar Bushes

R33 Front LCA's

New Kazama Adjustable Castor Rods

New Project Mu Handbrake Shoes

New KTS Alloy Cradle Lock Spacers

New KTS 5mm Lock Spacers

Cusco F&R Strut Braces

Drive Line;

RB20DET Gearbox

New Eagle Racing 3puk Brass Button Clutch

New KTS Strength Clutch pivot

New KTS Solid Polyurethane G-Box Mount

KTS Short Shifter

S14 Welded Diff

Wheels;

AVS (unsure of model) 17x8 and 17x9 +30 all around

Audio;

Basic Pioneer MP3 Headunit

Pulk Audeo Front Speakers

New Alpine Type S Rear Speakers.

It is also fitted with a Viper Alarm. Features Central locking, alarm and immobiliser.

All the fluids have been replaced. Im using Motal Turbolight engine oil.

When the Clutch was put in, i had the fly wheel machined. I also replaced the Spigot bush, Thrust bearing, rear main seal and rear gearbox seal.

As most of you may know R32's are know for their dashes cracking and bubbling. I have put in a MINT one from a GTR. In general the car is in good condition.

This is a non-hicas model! which is nice, no need for lock bars and all those lines running under the car.

The car does have some panel damage. When i bought it the front passenger front guard was dented. While i have owned it it has acquired some rear quarter love. The damages isnt bad. It just broke the tail light and dented the quarter. I took it to All Type Crash for a quote. They said it was very minor and easy to fix. Im not to worried about it, that's why i haven't bothered to get it fixed.

All it needs is a set of dope wheels and your ballin'. If it doesn't sell im thinking some R33 GTR's power coated black. nom nom nom

The Bride in not included in the sale.

Asking $13, 000

Contact by PM or on 0401 227 678

Cheers, Josh

Please, don't spam this thread with crap, telling me how your cousins mum Tony can get one for cheaper. I dont GAF. If you don't like it....don't buy it. Simple

Tire kickers and time wasters need not bother.

Here are some pics;

DSC_0186.jpg

DSC_0189.jpg

DSC_0180.jpg

DSC_0918.jpg

DSC_0914.jpg

DSC_0916.jpg

DSC_0922.jpg

DSC_0159.jpg

DSC_0160.jpg

Ill get some more pics tomorrow

Note; the speakers covers are missing in the pics. i do have them, along with the stock parts.

Will consider swaps

Edited by Lock_to_lock
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280083-r32-4-door/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...