Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, water gets into my boot through the taillight.

Your know how its like circular shape into the body.. and it all sealed up with gunk.. should i just use some silicone or sealant on it coz its leaking from that.

Or is it worth pulling the whole light out.. coz i dont really want to do that.?

Like its designed for water to flow off the body behind it yeah?

p.s They have been out before by previous owner for painting.

thanks Nick. :D

Edited by Nick.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280139-r33-taillight-leak/
Share on other sites

Thats your problem, that they have been removed before. There will be a gap in the sticky stuff somewhere id say. I hate it that Nissan use that shit. Makes it an absolute pain in the ass to remove the tail lights.

I had a similar issue on my ITR. But they use a rubber gasket that gets brittle and leaks.

I did this:

Seal.jpg

Its a product by "Sellotape" called "Inseal". Works a treat, never leaked again. Single sided sticky foam tape that when compressed makes a watertight seal.

Just need to clean off the gunk and figure out where the light contacts the body and put it on. Making sure the join is at the bottom.

mine were leaking 2. pulled the lights off and cleaned all the shit off with turps then bought a tube of the proper non hardening black windscreen sealant.

$9.95 at supercheap or BCF has it. its shit to work with but at least you can get ur lights back off again. if you use silicone say goodbye to being able to get them out again..

As others have said, use that black window sealant thing instead of silicone as it doesn't hardern over time therefore making it easy to remove it if required later on. Also that stuff is alot less sticky than the OEM Nissian black thing.

Theres a DIY here on how to remove the tail lights.

Also another note, do you notice any water being left in the reverse & blinker light areas in the leaking head light? If it is yes, then you will need to remove the head light & dirll holes on the bottom of the plastic to let the water out as otherwise if you just reseal the light, water will bulid up inside the lights and will eventually flood out through the openings where the light bulbs go in.

This happened to my car, 1st it was leaking through the black goo area, after I took the lights out (took 4ever to remove all that black crap Nissian put in :blush:) & resealed it with the window sealant. It started to leak water into the boot by means of flooding the area where reverse & blinker lights are & water going into the boot through the area where the light bulbs are located. So I had to remove that tail light off again (was much easier this time though, due to the fact that window sealant thing is no were near as sticky as the OEM Nissian black goo) & got my dad to drill a couple of holes on the bottom & I haven't had a leaking boot so far.

Edited by Mayuri Krab
  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
    • Wow the colour matched hard top completely transforms the car. Are there any nice front lip options for the car or is that off the table?
    • Generally yes but for some reason I've been ruthless this time around!  I might even need to do another tip run after the way I've finally been able to hit the delete button on shit I've stepped over, stepped around and tripped over for the past 10 years!
    • I just quote the Rolling Stones. Paint it black.
×
×
  • Create New...