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Hi guys,

Over the weekend I had some drama's ending in non exsistant ECU codes before it decided Code 21.

Found the culprit....drum roll.....

Ignitor pack wires are eletrical taped together, with no solder

(Don't buy off eBay)

Now before I solder it, my questions are:

* Should I cut the wires and solder in an R32 ignitor pack (incase it dies in the future, easier to find a replacement)?

* Any specific brand of coils to replace while I'm at it? I'm told most brands die quickly, havent heard about Splitfires?? If the difference between a $300 set and a $700 set is still short lived, I'll just be le-cheapo's.

* Which specific coil? I've attached a pic of my current coils, I dunno if theyre early or late model, or what one would classify as "brown", so can anybody see and point me in the right direction as to which ones to buy, also consdering if I switch to R32 ??

Thanks a million guys.

-Nic

post-62975-1248182369_thumb.jpg

Thanks SirRace.

I'm gonna replace the works, it all looks pretty nasty.

TWO QUESTIONS:

Does the R32 Ignitor box have vertical or horizontal pin orientation?

Where does the Ignitor get power from?

I want to replace the harness's, both sides, I didnt look too hard, but the lines into the box join the other lines that run back into the firewall to the ECU ???

Can't work out where that harness goes and Nissan FAST just confused me even more?

My wiring is all really stiff and burn out. Cylinder one has copped the worst, alot of burn marks visible from the valley.

Time to replace both harnesses, the ignitor box, Splitfire coils and new spark plugs. Then she'll haul ass again.

Cheers in advance fella's.

The R32 ignitor and A31 ignitor are identical (both in pin arrangement and horizontal/vertical orientation) it is just the plastic casing of the plugs that is different.

The ignitor wires go to the ECU, so I don't know how you'd go about fixing damaged wires there unless you replaced the complete engine loom (or stripped parts of your loom back and soldered on some new wiring).

I'd consider converting to external coils with built in ignitors and running regular ignition leads. This way keeps all of your wiring loom and coils away from the engine heat.

Just picked up another loom, pack and coil wiring loom from wreckers. I heard the ECU loom end of the wiring go crunch when I pulled it, it might be the cause, but the pack is definately cooked, and the coil loom. I'll have a crack and stripping back and resoldering the ECU end of the loom, but I'll still be replacing everything from the pack to the spark plugs.

Cheers fella's.

  • 2 weeks later...

mick from ovaboost performance suggested i ran Hyundai Sonata coils in my ceff, so i got them through coventrys, from what i remember they were $200 all up.. mounted them on the fire wall and ran plug leads into the head and onto the spark plugs, he was telling me he ran 1mm plug gap with around 20pound of boost and the spark wasnt affected at all. I havent had any trouble with them and ive done around 5000kms using them, it also makes life alot easier testing a cylinder if its running shite.

V6 Hyundai Sonata coils are cool

  • 2 weeks later...

lmao ^^^ awesome that it works but i wouldnt want hyundai parts under my bonnet lol

ive seen people do the same setup with commodore coils and falcon ones no sure which models.

but 1mm and 20 psi def says the setup works well

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