Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, thought id put my car up for sale as a whole package before i attempted to wreck it all separately.

The car is recorded as a "repairable write-off" after it copped a rear end hit. So can be repaired and re-registered for use on the roads, or used as a track/drift car

damage includes rear bar, rear drivers side quarter panel, boot lid. and chassis bent after diff on drivers side. pictures show the damage pretty clearly. no suspension work appears to be damaged though.

Car:

1996 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Series 2

Engine:

Standard rb25det ser2 engine (123xxxkms)

Splitfire Coilpacks

turbotech boost controller (ran at 12psi)

Trust pod filter

Greddy/trust front mount intercooler kit

gktech 3 inch split dump pipe

gktech 3 inch front pipe (with flex section)

Xforce 3 inch high flow cat

Trust PE-II catback with mid muffler removed

bosch 040 intank fuel pump (direct wire)

Mspec alloy radiator

silicone intake pipe (with 3" stainless steel pipe inside to definatly stop it sucking in)

Toshi remap ecu (boost cut, speed cut removed, rev limiter at 7300rpm, tuned for these mods)

Driveline:

4speed automatic transmission

gearbox replaced with new one (newer one had roughly 75000kms on it - as told by owner so no receipts)

mv automatics stage 2 shift kit

everything else standard

Suspension:

Kyb excel-g shocks with king springs low - front

ohlins height and damper adjustable coilovers - rear

Whiteline heavy duty sway bars front and rear

rear strutbrace

i also have the kyb/king springs combo for the rear

and the ohlins coilovers for the front. front left needs rebuild. quoted $220 at shock reco on moss st.

Interior:

Autometer boost gauge

blue L.E.D lights in dash, ign barrel, a/c unit, auto shifter and hazard/ demister switches

Seats are in decent condition (couple of burn marks on rear seats, 1 small tear in drivers seat.

full set genuine nissan floormats (couple are pretty shagged)

razo accelerator pedal

exterior:

Custom paintjob (hothouse green with gold pearl - new holden green colour i think)

350z rims painted black.

Stereo:

Sony headdeck

Sony 12" sub in box

pioneer 6" 3 ways in front doors

monoblock amp for sub

4 channel amp for speakers

unsure of model numbers etc for head unit

amps are nothing flash cheap branded ones (dont sound too bad though)

Spares:

greddy copy front mount plenum

standard swaybars

stock intercooler

stock dump/front pipe

stock transmission valvebody

standard ecu

standard coilpacks

Price:

$5500.00 price neg

throw me some offers

Location:

Brisbane Southside, QLD

Contact:

Steve - 0422850698

[email protected]

or PM/reply here

Pictures:

post-39016-1248247642_thumb.jpg

post-39016-1248247731_thumb.jpg

post-39016-1248247821_thumb.jpg

post-39016-1248247920_thumb.jpg

post-39016-1248248000_thumb.jpg

post-39016-1248248230_thumb.jpg

post-39016-1248248312_thumb.jpg

Can get more pictures at request if needed

Comments:

well there it is, sad too see it the way it is, but i dont have the time to fix it all up, would make a great drift car just throw in a manual box and your away.

or if youve got contacts in the paint and panel industry fix it up and have a clean street car. any questions just ask and i'll do my best to supply all the info.

Cheers

Steve

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...