Jump to content
SAU Community

Rs250t Advise Needed

joe rs250t
 Share

Recommended Posts

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

with 250kw at the wheels, mine must be 400hp awd :devil:;)

now dont talk costs :)

you'll need more than 3k to smash that xr8,

highflowed turo, garret spec, $2500

ecu remap/piggyback, $1000-$1500

fmic, dump pipe, air induction, $1000

and the list goes on....

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
with 250kw at the wheels, mine must be 400hp awd :devil:;)

now dont talk costs :)

More like 430hp... nice.

Those who don't have it want it.

Those that have it want more.

Those that have more are still not satisfied.

:) such the wallet hating addiction we seem to have...

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

did you use 30% drivetrain loss?? thats not necessarily true. generally the drivetrain costs power eg, 50kw, but it would be around 50kw no matter how much power you have. does that make sense?? there are some discussions about this ;) like a supercharger might cost 40kw to turn it, but the gains of forced induction gain more power than its using.......

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted
did you use 30% drivetrain loss?? thats not necessarily true. generally the drivetrain costs power eg, 50kw, but it would be around 50kw no matter how much power you have. does that make sense?? there are some discussions about this :P like a supercharger might cost 40kw to turn it, but the gains of forced induction gain more power than its using.......

I know you were talking generally, but drivetrain loss in a stagea is more like ~85kw. Based on s2 having supposedly 206kw and ~120awkw. Somehow the M35 250t with a very similar drivetrain still has 206kw but manages 135+ awkw. go figure.

Most other cars seem to have around 50-60kw drivetrain loss, so that makes sense. If you remove the front tailshaft in the stagea, the difference on a dyno is ~20kw compared to awd so that tells me that the awd "costs" about 20kw. However, the extra traction more than makes up for this on the road. Those who have been to the drags and tried a run with awd and then rwd (but in a awd stagea - so same weight) claim that the awd is quicker, despite the extra drivetrain losses.

For what its worth, factory rwd is a different story since we're then talking about a ~200kg weight difference.

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

yeah its pretty damn high, but what im explaining to others (i used 50kw as an example) that no matter how much power you have, the drivetrain will always take 85kw (for an M35 auto) not 30% which may end up being a bigger figure. i have more experience with silvias, AUDM S15s have around 40kw drivetrain loss, a little more efficient than their S13 bretheren at almost 50kw. but thats technology advancing. better still my honda lost 30kw which i think was pretty good!

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted
yeah its pretty damn high, but what im explaining to others (i used 50kw as an example) that no matter how much power you have, the drivetrain will always take 85kw (for an M35 auto) not 30% which may end up being a bigger figure. i have more experience with silvias, AUDM S15s have around 40kw drivetrain loss, a little more efficient than their S13 bretheren at almost 50kw. but thats technology advancing. better still my honda lost 30kw which i think was pretty good!

yup i agree. I owned 2 s13's, one of them turbo. Very quick car (the turbo)....but a little slippery in the wet.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
did you use 30% drivetrain loss?? thats not necessarily true. generally the drivetrain costs power eg, 50kw, but it would be around 50kw no matter how much power you have. does that make sense?? there are some discussions about this :P like a supercharger might cost 40kw to turn it, but the gains of forced induction gain more power than its using.......

LOL.. Nah, I used SK's estimate of 70kw for the S2 regarding drivetrain loss which makes more sense to me than a percentage as why would the drivetrain sap more power from the engine the more powerful the engine is?

I figure it takes me X amount of energy to lift a chair. If I went nuts in the gym and grew 50% stronger, would it require more energy to lift the same chair? No, it would require the same energy, but I would have much more left over due to the strength increase (which is why it would feel easier to lift it).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...