Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my last thread about high oil pressure seems to have died a horrible death and been ignored. i'm gonna make the assumption that my high oil pressure is caused by fouled-up oil lines (oil filter is new), and my oil loss is caused by the relief valve bleeding it all off every time it goes past 8kg/cm.

now.... whats the best method to flush/clean the oil system properly? is a regular oil flush with a hot change good enuff, or is there something more powerful to use that'll completely clean ALL the crap out of the system?

help me please as i really don't wanna pay a mechanic to do what I could do myself if I just knew what it was exactly I had to do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28032-flushingclearing-oil-lines-help-pls/
Share on other sites

could have a faulty/stuck oil pressure bypass valve, or blocked PCV valve causing to over-pressurise the crankcase, causing excessive blowby, oil pump filter (gause thingy) could be blocked/gunked up,

but u should get someone to look at it, u dont wont to be blowing turbo seals or anything like that

i would also strongly recommend NOT! to put any of those engine flush/clean products crap in to your skyline

You said you were using Castrol Formula R oil - that's probably the best way to clean your oil galleries. High quality full synth oil has a high amount of detergent in it which will help clean stuff out and prevent buildup afterwards. It's possible one of the reasons you had high oil pressure was because of the grade of oil you chose (10W-60) and hopefully it should come down a bit if you drop to a lower viscosity like 5W-40.

The oil usage could be related to high oil pressure, you might have blown an oil seal in the turbo or something.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...