Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.. couldnt find the tech help section.. so i figured this would be the best spot.. kinda..

I have an R34 GTT, recently i thought my water pump had died on me as i was getting no water flow through the top radiator hose, the top hose would be hot, the bottom hose would be cold.

So i took out the thermostat all together and tried again.. yet again no water flow.. so i got a hose stuck it in the bottom hose, water comes out the top no problem, vica versa still OK.

Swapped the water pump + thermostat on the weekend to an Rb30 item + Nismo thermostat, while at it i swapped my rad hoses to Silicon items aswell.. (mate told me my factory water pump still looked OK, it only had the slightest play in it, blades all ok)

Now by no means am I a mechanic, so i could be missing the most BASIC thing in the world. I've filled it up.. and yet again it seems like no flow. I idle the car for about 10 minutes and you can feel the pressure building in the hoses (as normal.. kinda..) and then the rad cap opens up to let the boiling water out of the overflow hose.. obviously at this point i turn the car off and let it cool down..

PLEEEEASE help me.. so confused and have no idea or reason i can think of as to why its overheating SO easily.

Also, if anyone knows, does ALL the water from the engine HAVE to pass through the turbo water lines, mine look abit small (Apexi turbo swap) and if it has to all go through the turbo i think that could POSSIBLY be the issue..

Edited by illusiVe

Sounds like the Radiator is blocked. Actually, it seems obvious. If you have changed everything bar the radiator and its still doing it...

PS Nismo thermostat is only causing you more harm than good.

radiator seems to hold pressure no problems.. its only when the car is getting damn hot im getting steam outta the overflow hose.. at which point i know its too hot..

if it is the radiator it'd have to be a DAMN tiny hole.. cause i dont see any steam ever coming out of it itself, nor water

i can get water through the radiator no problems with just pouring water in the top pipe, it comes straight out the bottom pipe of the radiator.. imho it also wouldnt explain why i dont get water coming out of my top radiator hose =(

ill still doublecheck + swap the radiator tonite.

Edited by illusiVe

It's not going to be the turbo water lines.

Now what temp are you getting on the cluster? Is it actually moving off half way and towards hot? You might still have a bad radiator. Just because you put water in the top and it comes out the bottom doesn't indicate it's good unfortunately, the core can be flowing poorly and water will still flow out OK. Have you been running coolant in it?

I would remove the radiator and take it to a radiator place to be check and cleaned. Failing that you may need to look at a possible head gasket problem, of which the symtoms can be found on here by searching.

Get the rad properly checked out first but, re-fit it then move on from there.

thanks james.

yeh the temp cluster moves up towards high.. but in my 3 years of owning it until this issue happen'd i had never seen it go past half way. I have always ran coolant in the system, however since the issue im just throwing water in until i can fix these stupid gremlins.

Can you just throw me a basic reason/s as to why it could be headgasket related?.. just cant make sense from it.

after talking to a mate, apparently RB's have a bleed valve somewhere near the intake mani? (plz confirm) which u need to open to get all the air out...

i have no idea where this is or what it looks like (i know what an intake manifold is though!) if anyone knows or can pics me.. would be HUUUUUUGEly appreciated.

  • 4 months later...

old thread but issue continues..

ill check for the second one tomorrow.. going to start from scratch

1)clean out engine water lines, thermostat+housing,waterpump+rad

2)redo thermostat + waterpump, wait for goop to sealup

3)bolt shit back together

4)fill rad with fresh coolant.

5)bleed system + test

anything else i may be missing?

  • 4 weeks later...

mate i got the exact same problem.

tried all the stuff you have....

i just keep a close eye on the temperature and if if gets too hot when im in traffic i just give it some revs to get the water flowing...

pretty lame but im to lazy to figure it out lol

  • 1 month later...

had a water leak at the back of the block, having it fixed and new lines made up.

battery check yours =)

remember stock gauge doesnt go up until its PASSED a safe temperature for awhile..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...