Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.. couldnt find the tech help section.. so i figured this would be the best spot.. kinda..

I have an R34 GTT, recently i thought my water pump had died on me as i was getting no water flow through the top radiator hose, the top hose would be hot, the bottom hose would be cold.

So i took out the thermostat all together and tried again.. yet again no water flow.. so i got a hose stuck it in the bottom hose, water comes out the top no problem, vica versa still OK.

Swapped the water pump + thermostat on the weekend to an Rb30 item + Nismo thermostat, while at it i swapped my rad hoses to Silicon items aswell.. (mate told me my factory water pump still looked OK, it only had the slightest play in it, blades all ok)

Now by no means am I a mechanic, so i could be missing the most BASIC thing in the world. I've filled it up.. and yet again it seems like no flow. I idle the car for about 10 minutes and you can feel the pressure building in the hoses (as normal.. kinda..) and then the rad cap opens up to let the boiling water out of the overflow hose.. obviously at this point i turn the car off and let it cool down..

PLEEEEASE help me.. so confused and have no idea or reason i can think of as to why its overheating SO easily.

Also, if anyone knows, does ALL the water from the engine HAVE to pass through the turbo water lines, mine look abit small (Apexi turbo swap) and if it has to all go through the turbo i think that could POSSIBLY be the issue..

Edited by illusiVe

Sounds like the Radiator is blocked. Actually, it seems obvious. If you have changed everything bar the radiator and its still doing it...

PS Nismo thermostat is only causing you more harm than good.

radiator seems to hold pressure no problems.. its only when the car is getting damn hot im getting steam outta the overflow hose.. at which point i know its too hot..

if it is the radiator it'd have to be a DAMN tiny hole.. cause i dont see any steam ever coming out of it itself, nor water

i can get water through the radiator no problems with just pouring water in the top pipe, it comes straight out the bottom pipe of the radiator.. imho it also wouldnt explain why i dont get water coming out of my top radiator hose =(

ill still doublecheck + swap the radiator tonite.

Edited by illusiVe

It's not going to be the turbo water lines.

Now what temp are you getting on the cluster? Is it actually moving off half way and towards hot? You might still have a bad radiator. Just because you put water in the top and it comes out the bottom doesn't indicate it's good unfortunately, the core can be flowing poorly and water will still flow out OK. Have you been running coolant in it?

I would remove the radiator and take it to a radiator place to be check and cleaned. Failing that you may need to look at a possible head gasket problem, of which the symtoms can be found on here by searching.

Get the rad properly checked out first but, re-fit it then move on from there.

thanks james.

yeh the temp cluster moves up towards high.. but in my 3 years of owning it until this issue happen'd i had never seen it go past half way. I have always ran coolant in the system, however since the issue im just throwing water in until i can fix these stupid gremlins.

Can you just throw me a basic reason/s as to why it could be headgasket related?.. just cant make sense from it.

after talking to a mate, apparently RB's have a bleed valve somewhere near the intake mani? (plz confirm) which u need to open to get all the air out...

i have no idea where this is or what it looks like (i know what an intake manifold is though!) if anyone knows or can pics me.. would be HUUUUUUGEly appreciated.

  • 4 months later...

old thread but issue continues..

ill check for the second one tomorrow.. going to start from scratch

1)clean out engine water lines, thermostat+housing,waterpump+rad

2)redo thermostat + waterpump, wait for goop to sealup

3)bolt shit back together

4)fill rad with fresh coolant.

5)bleed system + test

anything else i may be missing?

  • 4 weeks later...

mate i got the exact same problem.

tried all the stuff you have....

i just keep a close eye on the temperature and if if gets too hot when im in traffic i just give it some revs to get the water flowing...

pretty lame but im to lazy to figure it out lol

  • 1 month later...

had a water leak at the back of the block, having it fixed and new lines made up.

battery check yours =)

remember stock gauge doesnt go up until its PASSED a safe temperature for awhile..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Definitely didn't put a N/A cluster in instead? The speed sensor (location) is different in both cars.... I think. This will obviously stuff things up.
    • Nah not the throwout bearing, it's something internal. I already replaced the throwout bearing. Mechanic misdiagnosed my car and thought it was a spigot bearing, went to another bloke who said it was an input shaft bearing. (I replaced everything when I pulled out the gearbox but didn't open up the gearbox.   In this video at timestamp 6:05 : Mine has the same sound  min
    • It is definitely to space it out and away for clearance during compression, and possibly for spring clearance to upper arm. That latter would only be true for springs that are same-ish diameter to stockers, and so that probably doesn't apply to Teins or most other coilovers.
    • Yeah, a mechanic who knows these cars told me even if I get a brand new gearbox the noise will return but will be less noticeable. I've heard someone also they this noise came back after 3,000km on a new or reconditioned gearbox. It is pretty f**king annoying though just hearing groaning most of the time lol. I wonder if an aftermarket input shaft bearing would fix the problem or how they are built.
    • All RB gearbags, especially the big turbo box, have rollover noise. Mine certainly does. Always has. Sometimes is worse than others - no particular idea why, although it is probably temperature related. I have smurf jizz in mine and have had to have it in there from the first day the box went into teh car. It simply would not select gears with the engine on, on day one, with normal oil in there. And so, the blue stuff has probably ruined almost everything synchro related in the box. But it has taken 12 or 13 years to get to the point where I simply must replace the box. It has become increasingly baulky of late, which might be symptomatic of the way I've been driving it, as much as anything. I shall have to make some corrections when teh new box goes in. Input shaft bearing noise will decrease with clutch pedal pressed because the drive is removed. But yes, more often than not noises that work like that are associated with the throwout. It won't matter either way, new box will mean this one can be relegated to the parts pile.
×
×
  • Create New...