Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people,

just wanted to start a thread to find out whether there are many people out there running split width rims and tyres on their GTR.

i know people have raised issues about the ATESSA, and rolling diameter of the wheels.

but i am currently running a set of 17's and my front rims are 9in wide and the rear are 10in wide.

my car is a R32 GTR

i got 235/45R17 on the front and 255/40R17 on the rear.

using this link i calculated my rolling radius and circumference to be

http://www.club80-90syncro.co.uk/Syncro_we...0calculator.htm

front circumference 1962mm

rear circumference 1939mm

DIFFERENCE of 23mm

front radius 312mm

read radius 309mm

DIFFERENCE 3mm (which is 6mm in diameter)

i know its not equal, but i am hoping to keep the same size for the front and get a 265/40R17 on the rear, which will make the Circumference 1964mm (Difference of 2mm) and Radius 313mm (Difference of 1mm)

does anyone else favour the added traction on the rear of a GTR??

Based on some scientific sampling of the 8327 threads on this subject there are two people who favour running larger rears tyres on the rear of an R32 GT-R. Neither of them should be listened to.

There are many good reasons not to.

There are no good reasons for doing so.

Try a search.

Put the guy out of his missery, your car has 65% of its weight over the front wheels and you want to put a larger tyre on the rear. Does that sound logical to you?

Cheers

Gary

I say do it. it's an awesome idea. it's just that in the 20 years that GTRs have been around no one else has thought of it or tried it. maybe ring Garage Saurus, Mines, M-speed, HKS, Prime Garage, and all the other GTR racers and workshops you can think of and let them know of this breakthrough in GTR performance. a way to give the car more understeer. it's also great as it means no more pesky wheel rotations to extend your tyres life, so you get to see your mates at tempe tyres more often. you will also have the benefit of eventually triggering your car into RWD and no ABS mode, so it'll become a real mans car, just like a 1983 model holden commodore. get ready for some awesome skids!!!

Put the guy out of his missery, your car has 65% of its weight over the front wheels and you want to put a larger tyre on the rear. Does that sound logical to you?

Cheers

Gary

even GTSt's handle better with same width wheels front and back... and you can rotate them when you chew through rear tyres

I've got 10" wide fronts on the GTR and it still understeers on a skid pan... can't imagine how much of a pig running a staggered set would make it... eeek :P

There is a rubber chicken prize for whomever can stop a GT-R from understeering. I have my hopes. The rear anti roll bar I made out of scaffold tube should hoik that inside rear atleast 3 inches off the deck.

Being serious it is no good having traction in a car that won't go around a corner. Traction is easy to get in a GT-R. Finding front end grip is very hard.

But the Baron is right. VH Commodore & R32 GT-R. Same same.

Edited by djr81

ooooh group buy for scaffold tube sway bar?

I've got a heap of neg camber on the front to try and get it turned in... its great on the street, have to have 2 hands on the steering wheel all the time to make sure I don't 'unexpectedly' change lanes

while I'm whoring this thread here's a pic for you djr81... see I still have a few inches to go...

gallery_7369_282_80604.jpg

ooooh group buy for scaffold tube sway bar?

I've got a heap of neg camber on the front to try and get it turned in... its great on the street, have to have 2 hands on the steering wheel all the time to make sure I don't 'unexpectedly' change lanes

while I'm whoring this thread here's a pic for you djr81... see I still have a few inches to go...

gallery_7369_282_80604.jpg

Judging by that picture it doesn't have enough caster and/or camber.

And the front spring rate and/or antir roll rate may also be too high.

Cheers

Gary

ooooh group buy for scaffold tube sway bar?

I've got a heap of neg camber on the front to try and get it turned in... its great on the street, have to have 2 hands on the steering wheel all the time to make sure I don't 'unexpectedly' change lanes

while I'm whoring this thread here's a pic for you djr81... see I still have a few inches to go...

gallery_7369_282_80604.jpg

That pic is most awesome however. I would definitely be getting the full size one of the photographer

Judging by that picture it doesn't have enough caster and/or camber.

And the front spring rate and/or antir roll rate may also be too high.

Cheers

Gary

the spring rates front and rear are way too high... it has old off the shelf Tein RE's in it which are hard as concrete... something like 12kg/mm... would be more compliant with blocks of wood in there

camber is a trade off for street duties for the moment... not sure how much castor its running but its got Nismo bushes, circuit link set and tension rod set so more than standard

it handles great in wider/faster corners... just has trouble getting around cones on a skid pan... handbrake shoes need upgrading so I can use it more and I need to learn how to drive it better;)

ooooh group buy for scaffold tube sway bar?

I've got a heap of neg camber on the front to try and get it turned in... its great on the street, have to have 2 hands on the steering wheel all the time to make sure I don't 'unexpectedly' change lanes

while I'm whoring this thread here's a pic for you djr81... see I still have a few inches to go...

Soft I tells ya, soft.

Real men run too soft a spring rate & try & make up for dynamic camber changes with too much neg camber. It almost works - until you have to get the car working in slow speed corners..... :angry:

Soft I tells ya, soft.

Real men run too soft a spring rate & try & make up for dynamic camber changes with too much neg camber. It almost works - until you have to get the car working in slow speed corners..... :)

There's bunch of mixed metaphors. :starwars: I run more caster and less static camber than most but I run more dynamic camber change. For every degree of chassis role I have 0.75 to 1.0 degrees of negative camber built into the front camber curves. I do run soft spring rates with a lot of anti roll but then I can tune the balance quickly on the day with the swaybars. To stop excessive negative camber under brakes I run more than standard anti dive geometry in the front end.

There are lots of "tools" at our disposal but we can only do so much when 60% to 65% of the static weight is on the front wheels. That's where driving technique has to be developed. Slow in fast out has always been the fastest way around a circuit for a 4wd Skyline. If we treat them incorrectly, such as fry the front tyres under brakes, followed by a yank on the steering wheel and then expect no understeer we are truly dreaming. No amount of suspension set up can overcome inappropriate driving technique. Even a perfectly set up F1 car can be made to understeer and a GTR is long way from that..

Cheers

Gary

There's bunch of mixed metaphors. :) I run more caster and less static camber than most but I run more dynamic camber change. For every degree of chassis role I have 0.75 to 1.0 degrees of negative camber built into the front camber curves. I do run soft spring rates with a lot of anti roll but then I can tune the balance quickly on the day with the swaybars. To stop excessive negative camber under brakes I run more than standard anti dive geometry in the front end.

There are lots of "tools" at our disposal but we can only do so much when 60% to 65% of the static weight is on the front wheels. That's where driving technique has to be developed. Slow in fast out has always been the fastest way around a circuit for a 4wd Skyline. If we treat them incorrectly, such as fry the front tyres under brakes, followed by a yank on the steering wheel and then expect no understeer we are truly dreaming. No amount of suspension set up can overcome inappropriate driving technique. Even a perfectly set up F1 car can be made to understeer and a GTR is long way from that..

Cheers

Gary

Yeah I was just trying to have a laugh based on some of the failings of my set up.

BNR#@ took this of mine. Not sure how close to being right it is, but it appears to work ok. It was only the out lap which explains why I missed the apex by a good metre & a bit. :starwars:

someone help me decipher what's being said here ... staggered setups (ie. wider wheels at the back) are BAD for AWDs (GTR) or for any Skyline? Or did I miss the point entirely ?

You are correct.

post-5134-1248677348_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Rear doors central locking wiring removed and cleaned. See the first 8sec video of when it’s filled with river silt. its a snip of what I’m up against. front and rear doors complete now. Maybe another day removing carpet and bits and pieces. Then the re assembly begins. 🤙 att.DqweJqhY5MZiZYQDVMhn3LtvdD1RBZ7TBG4f2s7W1zM.mp4 att.lFuN22MZEowqCbFAXoDw009r2gHL76ChMVfxMfBX-uk.mp4
    • There aren't boost creep issues, it's not engineered around the restriction of the cats but if you haven't tuned the engine a full decat + exhaust can flow enough air to run off the end of the OEM load scales and you will get a pretty substantial reduction in ignition timing as a result. I recommend using DFCO, avoiding ignition cut limiters, and avoiding popcorn tunes along with running a cat unless you enjoy a perpetually soot-covered and potentially burnt bumper.
    • Small update, it's been slow moving over the Christmas period with money having to go everywhere thats not my car 😅. I got myself a little present to myself from "santa" in the form of some tidy radiator mounts from fitmint automotive to get rid of the stock ones that look like they have been in an accident before and then straightened by a caveman. I know I should've replaced the rubber bush at the same time but I had no idea how bad they were until I was replacing the mounts. Decided to order their dash mat while I was at it as I feel like I am lucky enough to have a pretty decent condition dash and I don't want to risk it being ruined while it's parked in the aussie sun while I'm at work. I have found another electrical fault to add to the evergrowing list to eventually chase down. Every time I replace my taillight globe it blows within a day of use, I'm starting to think my life would be easier if I took a few minutes to learn how to use  a multimeter 😂.   Had some luck with finding a series 2 drivers headlight on marketplace to replace my mismatched series 1 headlight, a subtle difference but it's nice to have a matching set of lights now.   I returned to the air con problem due to being sick of this summer heat, found a good condition condenser to replace my leaking one! I got it in the car and was happy when I got the thumbs up that the system was now holding gas. Sadly the compressor is not kicking in for some reason, we even tried branching the relay in the fuse box. I have tried to do some research on the issue with no clear understanding of what the fix is, so for now it will be placed on the backburner until I can be bothered to look into the wiring to the compressor. The last small mods I have done was cutting the horizontal vents out of the front bar, not really in a functional airflow sense but I just think it looks better as I am not a fan of the series 2 bar. I also switched the shift knob out for a hosoboyo aluminium grex style one, it has a really nice more direct driving feel than the outdated rubbery oem one. Thirdly, I chucked on one of the ebay bonnet strut kits. The fitment is decent and they seem to work fairly well. They have only given out once while the car was parked facing downhill, I think if I was working under the bonnet I would still put the oem hood stay up to be precautionary as to avoid getting a speedy concussion.
    • Got pneumonia, haven’t played with her in a while, but I’m back now. Previous owners cut bonnet pins into the bonnet. My choice try find a replacement or spend $15 get some pins myself to cover up. Now only one small hole to cover. looks shit now, but when the bonnet is red again. Be good 🤞
    • No R32 GTSt had 15" wheels. 205/55-16 was standard GTSt fare. 4.36:1 is standard R32 turbo auto diff. I think the manual was too, not 4.11. 4.11 and 4.08 were R33 namual and auto respectively.
×
×
  • Create New...